Rotrex belt slip at high rpm
#1
Rotrex belt slip at high rpm
finally got my c30-74 rotrex setup running and dyno'd.
At the dyno, the car shredded a belt but i had another and we pushed on. Ended up with this even with the belt slipping past 7k.. Flamesuit on for low torque.
I guess the question i have i can i convert to a 6 rib setup with a supermiata s/c damper? 949racing says it wont work, but my pulley has 2 more ribs on the front side and the spm sc pulley says its the same alignment as a stock pulley but with two more ribs out front. my basic math tells me it would work. ill just need a new pulley for the rotrex aswell.
At the dyno, the car shredded a belt but i had another and we pushed on. Ended up with this even with the belt slipping past 7k.. Flamesuit on for low torque.
I guess the question i have i can i convert to a 6 rib setup with a supermiata s/c damper? 949racing says it wont work, but my pulley has 2 more ribs on the front side and the spm sc pulley says its the same alignment as a stock pulley but with two more ribs out front. my basic math tells me it would work. ill just need a new pulley for the rotrex aswell.
#4
Blower has a 80mm pulley. About 9 psi before it slips. slip indicated by the rubber everywhere/hot belt and the belt breaking and the psi tapering off at high rpm
Your pics make the ic look like its supposed to fit there.. this is also a much bigger ic hence the pain in the *** to make fit
Your pics make the ic look like its supposed to fit there.. this is also a much bigger ic hence the pain in the *** to make fit
#7
Great numbers for the smaller Rotrex. I bet the intake plays a big role.
What’s up with that throttle body-IC tube funkiness. Square up that TB plate and you’ll be left with a straighter shot to the intercooler. Get some good bends and loose all those goofy pie cuts. I bet you can make the transition in 1-2 cuts.
What’s up with that throttle body-IC tube funkiness. Square up that TB plate and you’ll be left with a straighter shot to the intercooler. Get some good bends and loose all those goofy pie cuts. I bet you can make the transition in 1-2 cuts.
#12
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You say you have 2 more ribs on both the SC and the crank, and they go the proper direction? That kinda sounds like a no-brainer to me. You can space the autotensioner forward, and get a different pulley for it.
Edit: i have no experience with Rotrex, but I DIY superchargers.... an additional bracket on the back of the SC makes a world of difference.
Edit: i have no experience with Rotrex, but I DIY superchargers.... an additional bracket on the back of the SC makes a world of difference.
#13
It’s fixed
So I had a giant clusterfuck with 949racing and bhj but luckily bhj is semi local to me and I was able to get the right crankpully and overlay to run the 6 rib setup. It took some work but I got it done.
i replaced the crappy small bearing manual tensioner pulley for a Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler.
Then i spaced in the auto timing belt pulley a few mm closer to the bracket.
Found my 6 rib belt for my new blower pulley and hit the track. No belt dust and the belt lasted the entire day no problem.
Ill hit the dyno later later this month to confirm no more belt slip and consistent boost. but I’m pretty sure it’s fixed
i replaced the crappy small bearing manual tensioner pulley for a Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler.
Then i spaced in the auto timing belt pulley a few mm closer to the bracket.
Found my 6 rib belt for my new blower pulley and hit the track. No belt dust and the belt lasted the entire day no problem.
Ill hit the dyno later later this month to confirm no more belt slip and consistent boost. but I’m pretty sure it’s fixed
#19
I was able to get the right crankpully and overlay to run the 6 rib setup. It took some work but I got it done.
i replaced the crappy small bearing manual tensioner pulley for a Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler.
Then i spaced in the auto timing belt pulley a few mm closer to the bracket.
Found my 6 rib belt for my new blower pulley and hit the track. No belt dust and the belt lasted the entire day no problem.
i replaced the crappy small bearing manual tensioner pulley for a Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler.
Then i spaced in the auto timing belt pulley a few mm closer to the bracket.
Found my 6 rib belt for my new blower pulley and hit the track. No belt dust and the belt lasted the entire day no problem.
I want to go to a six-rib setup for my Rotrex C30-74. I have the same problem--80mm pulley, no p/s or a/c, and I can only get to 9.3 psi before I get belt slippage.
Could you be more specific about the parts you used?
I'd be interested in anybody else running a six-rib setup on their Rotrex for the track, as well.
Thanks much,
Last edited by poormxdad; 03-19-2019 at 10:00 AM.
#20
I thought I was pretty specific.
Bhj supercharger pulley and overlay. No longer avalible As far as I know. You could substitute for a stock pulley overlay. Make sure it’s one that retains a damper
i tossed out the plastic idler pulley and used a full metal wide bearing 2009? Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler
used washers behind the tensioner pulley to get it closer to the bracket. I also had to use a trimmed down bolt to hold the sc bracket on. You’ll know it when you see it.
Also to note. This setup has been 100% solid. Still on the original belt I put on there. Many dyno pulls and some track hours on it. Zero issues with this part of my car.
Bhj supercharger pulley and overlay. No longer avalible As far as I know. You could substitute for a stock pulley overlay. Make sure it’s one that retains a damper
i tossed out the plastic idler pulley and used a full metal wide bearing 2009? Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler
used washers behind the tensioner pulley to get it closer to the bracket. I also had to use a trimmed down bolt to hold the sc bracket on. You’ll know it when you see it.
Also to note. This setup has been 100% solid. Still on the original belt I put on there. Many dyno pulls and some track hours on it. Zero issues with this part of my car.