Rotrex belt slip at high rpm
finally got my c30-74 rotrex setup running and dyno'd.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d14dff6f91.jpg At the dyno, the car shredded a belt but i had another and we pushed on. Ended up with this even with the belt slipping past 7k.. Flamesuit on for low torque. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...347e16d2ea.jpg I guess the question i have i can i convert to a 6 rib setup with a supermiata s/c damper? 949racing says it wont work, but my pulley has 2 more ribs on the front side and the spm sc pulley says its the same alignment as a stock pulley but with two more ribs out front. my basic math tells me it would work. ill just need a new pulley for the rotrex aswell. |
Good results! What size pulley are you running on the Rotrex?
By the way, diggin' the intercooler set up ;-) |
Blower has a 80mm pulley. About 9 psi before it slips. slip indicated by the rubber everywhere/hot belt and the belt breaking and the psi tapering off at high rpm
Your pics make the ic look like its supposed to fit there.. this is also a much bigger ic hence the pain in the ass to make fit |
Originally Posted by Twibs415
(Post 1485721)
Blower has a 80mm pulley. About 9 psi before it slips. slip indicated by the rubber everywhere/hot belt and the belt breaking and the psi tapering off at high rpm
Your pics make the ic look like its supposed to fit there.. this is also a much bigger ic hence the pain in the ass to make fit |
no a/c or p/s. the belt is a 4pk1160, its the smallest i could fit for maximum wrap. im starting to think the no PS is the issue. there is no guidance up there by the blower and the belt being longer stays cooler.
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Damn 312 whp on the smallest Rotrex? Good stuff.
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Great numbers for the smaller Rotrex. I bet the intake plays a big role. What’s up with that throttle body-IC tube funkiness. Square up that TB plate and you’ll be left with a straighter shot to the intercooler. Get some good bends and loose all those goofy pie cuts. I bet you can make the transition in 1-2 cuts. |
Intake is 3 inch to 60mm. I wish i could ditch the pie cut piece but I was having issues with the spm radiator and the charge pipe. The intake manifold has the tb pointed toward the center of the car so not much I could do. I’m not happy about it, but it works! |
300hp with 9 psi is something new for me. Regarding belt sleeping, I don’t think a 6 rib setup would help. That rotrex support is flexing , that’s my guess as I’ve seen before, it even ended up breaking on the top of the rotrex where the support its thinner. |
Originally Posted by Twibs415
(Post 1485935)
Intake is 3 inch to 60mm. I wish i could ditch the pie cut piece but I was having issues with the spm radiator and the charge pipe. The intake manifold has the tb pointed toward the center of the car so not much I could do. I’m not happy about it, but it works! |
No that’s part of the manifold. I’m not interested in fixing it cause it’s not an issue. Like bracket flex/belt slip |
You say you have 2 more ribs on both the SC and the crank, and they go the proper direction? That kinda sounds like a no-brainer to me. You can space the autotensioner forward, and get a different pulley for it.
Edit: i have no experience with Rotrex, but I DIY superchargers.... an additional bracket on the back of the SC makes a world of difference. |
It’s fixed
So I had a giant clusterfuck with 949racing and bhj but luckily bhj is semi local to me and I was able to get the right crankpully and overlay to run the 6 rib setup. It took some work but I got it done. i replaced the crappy small bearing manual tensioner pulley for a Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler. Then i spaced in the auto timing belt pulley a few mm closer to the bracket. Found my 6 rib belt for my new blower pulley and hit the track. No belt dust and the belt lasted the entire day no problem. Ill hit the dyno later later this month to confirm no more belt slip and consistent boost. but I’m pretty sure it’s fixed |
Also...
the spm supercharger pulley is not the same alignment with two more ribs out front. It’s actually one rib on each end of the stock pulley. This was why I had to space the auto tensioner in closer to the bracket |
Tbh I want to see more pics of that engine bay from engine to bumper. That's such a beautiful setup.
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i have a build thread! or check out my IG thetwibs
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use exhaust to spin it up. problem solved.
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i was actually gonna use the exhaust to spin up a pinwheel with an extra flywheel i have so even when im not accelerating the pinwheel can propel me in a forward direction to make me faster.
Out with the turbo talk please. |
Originally Posted by Twibs415
(Post 1490479)
I was able to get the right crankpully and overlay to run the 6 rib setup. It took some work but I got it done. i replaced the crappy small bearing manual tensioner pulley for a Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler. Then i spaced in the auto timing belt pulley a few mm closer to the bracket. Found my 6 rib belt for my new blower pulley and hit the track. No belt dust and the belt lasted the entire day no problem. I want to go to a six-rib setup for my Rotrex C30-74. I have the same problem--80mm pulley, no p/s or a/c, and I can only get to 9.3 psi before I get belt slippage. Could you be more specific about the parts you used? I'd be interested in anybody else running a six-rib setup on their Rotrex for the track, as well. Thanks much, |
I thought I was pretty specific.
Bhj supercharger pulley and overlay. No longer avalible As far as I know. You could substitute for a stock pulley overlay. Make sure it’s one that retains a damper i tossed out the plastic idler pulley and used a full metal wide bearing 2009? Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler used washers behind the tensioner pulley to get it closer to the bracket. I also had to use a trimmed down bolt to hold the sc bracket on. You’ll know it when you see it. Also to note. This setup has been 100% solid. Still on the original belt I put on there. Many dyno pulls and some track hours on it. Zero issues with this part of my car. |
Twibs,
I'm wicked confused. You say this...
Originally Posted by Twibs415
(Post 1490484)
the spm supercharger pulley is not the same alignment with two more ribs out front. It’s actually one rib on each end of the stock pulley. This was why I had to space the auto tensioner in closer to the bracket
Originally Posted by Twibs415
(Post 1490479)
So I had a giant clusterfuck with 949racing and bhj but luckily bhj is semi local to me and I was able to get the right crankpully and overlay to run the 6 rib setup. It took some work but I got it done.
i replaced the crappy small bearing manual tensioner pulley for a Hyundai Elantra timing belt idler. Then i spaced in the auto timing belt pulley a few mm closer to the bracket. Found my 6 rib belt for my new blower pulley and hit the track. No belt dust and the belt lasted the entire day no problem. You used an overlay for your crank pulley. Doesn't that mean you should have used a larger pulley for the Rotrex as well? I thought 80mm with the stock crank pulley would take the Rotrex to its max rpm of 120,000, so a larger overlay would overspin the Rotrex when you get up into the higher engine rpms. I did check out your IG page. Beautiful car. Thanks, |
The spm pulley is it’s own beast with its own issues. And things with it weren’t as advertised. I would disregard anything you read about it because I don’t think there were even a handful of them made.
Iirc all the rotrex pulleys come in 6-8 rib. There no issues with this side of the equation. Figure out what crank pulley diameter you’ll be running and then give kraftwerks a call and They can set you up. |
BTW @poormxdad , the 75mm rotrex pulley will put the c30-74 just under 120k RPM at 7000rpm with the stock miata BP pulley, not the 80mm one.
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Originally Posted by lbatalha
(Post 1529076)
BTW, the 75mm rotrex pulley will put the c30-74 just under 120k RPM at 7000rpm with the stock miata BP pulley, not the 80mm one.
Twibs, did you see an increase in boost when you got it all sorted out? |
If I remember right I was slipping about .5 of a psi before the belt broke on the dyno.
My before the overlay and after had similar max blower rpm. So no measureable difference except not breaking belts. I did see an increase In boost with my bigger exhaust. |
@poormxdad if you dont have P/S, it might be worth looking into an ATI Damper, they have 6 rib support so they might line up correctly with the rotrex (since they align with the stock PS, and just have more rib space forward, its likely you can just bolt it on and add a 6 rib belt, and be done with it)
https://www.flyinmiata.com/ati-dampe...-kit-36-2.html Probably better to talk with FM about it to confirm though. |
Update: Installed 75mm pulley and am using a very cheap weird brand belt at the moment while waiting for the Gates RPM belt. The current belt is also a tiny bit too long as my static tensioner is almost touching the P/S pulley.
I have not seen any slip yet, even with this garbage belt not being tensioned that much (auto-tensioner is a bit away from the optimal position) I have measured 0.84 bar (12psi) @ 7200rpm with MAT of 21C (70f). With a MAT of 38C (100f) with ambient temp of 33C (91f) I was seeing 0.75bar (10.8psi) @ 7200rpm The boost the 85mm pulley was giving me at 7200rpm (0.64bar) I am now making at 6000rpm With the new belt I should have a bit of slip margin hopefully. I have yet to track the car in this spec so slippage during consistent hard conditions is unknown as of yet. |
I installed the Elantra timing belt idler. That was a great find. It gave me a little more tightening adjustment with the 40457 belt. It's 60mm. 62mm or so would be even better.
Have any of you found a significantly better tensioner assembly than what comes with the kit(s)? Thanks, |
Audi ones *could* work; need to get my hands on one to measure how much load it can apply.
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Originally Posted by poormxdad
(Post 1536021)
I installed the Elantra timing belt idler. That was a great find. It gave me a little more tightening adjustment with the 40457 belt. It's 60mm. 62mm or so would be even better.
Have any of you found a significantly better tensioner assembly than what comes with the kit(s)? Thanks, Also for future reference, and everyone on the internet trying to figure this out: The part numbers for the stuff that comes with the kraftwerks kit, as best as I can tell Auto-tensioner - Gates 38164 Tensioner Idler - Dayco 89003 The auto-tensioner looks to have the same mounting pattern, but the pulley wheel is obviously different, so I dont know if this one has more tension than the one I have. |
The part numbers are indeed correct; the Gates autotensioner gives about 450NM of torque. The Audi one I have been mentioning as a possible replacement is from an Audi A4 2.0 2009-2011, part no. 06H903133F, which I need to measure in terms of load that it can apply.
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Feedback on Gates RPM belt: its awesome.
After initial tensioning with engine off, it didnt seem to lose any tension that I could tell (I have witness marks on the autotensioner) After the first 20-30km it stopped dusting completely (not even a HINT of dust anywhere, after I cleaned the bracket and everything else, and after driving 200km with a lot of pulls) It also doesnt squeal when cold. No change in peak pressure that I can tell as of now but with some careful custom functions in MLV can confirm im not losing boost to slip (boost per rpm gain is a straight line) TBD how it holds up to daily and track use |
Originally Posted by lbatalha
(Post 1540335)
Feedback on Gates RPM belt: its awesome.
Thanks, |
I used a K040476RPM, since I have P/S. Their website shows all the sizes, seems the step down from mine is 440.
https://www.gates.com/us/en/power-tr...-000000-000002 |
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