Wideband bung placement in stock header
So while pulling my motor I forgot one step I was supposed to do...figure out where I could place the wideband so it wouldn't hit anything. I'm going to run a aem uego and stock ecu, so cant reuse the stock location.
I'm having a friend weld it at his school's race shop which he'll be at this sat, so I would like to figure it out for then rather than putting the car all together and test fitting. Anyone running a second o2 sensor on a stock header that they could either share some pics or general placement guidelines? If all else fails I'll eyeball where the header sits by referencing pics I have and go from there. Car is a 1994 |
<p>I'd add it right before or after the stock bung. </p>
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Has to be right before the cat. Too much closer and you'll cook it.
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Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 1247889)
Has to be right before the cat. Too much closer and you'll cook it.
Trying to "visualize" the space I have without having the motor there. Pics would help if you have any! |
add it directly in the stock bung.
oh wait you bought an AEM so you cant... lol. |
Originally Posted by jkspeed
(Post 1247899)
Thanks. DO you know what clocking it should be at to not clash? Im thinking 11 o'clock if you're looking from the front of the car into the bay.
Trying to "visualize" the space I have without having the motor there. Pics would help if you have any! |
Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 1247914)
As vertical as possible, leaving clearance so as to not hit anything when the engine/exhaust moves. About 10 o'clock is a good compromise. You just don't want it pointing down so condensation collects in it. It isn't that critical. Route the wires up through the shifter opening, under the large boot.
routing through the shifter opening is a good idea, haven't heard about doing that one before. Any issues with wire insulation degrading though? Maybe if I do that I'll cut a relief in the boot, or take a punch and dent a groove into the trans tunnel. |
Originally Posted by jkspeed
(Post 1247921)
I'll aim for that, and hope for the best.
routing through the shifter opening is a good idea, haven't heard about doing that one before. Any issues with wire insulation degrading though? Maybe if I do that I'll cut a relief in the boot, or take a punch and dent a groove into the trans tunnel. |
Careful, you'll have to ensure a perfect seal at that flange, or you'll introduce air and get a bad reading. I'd put it ~12-18" away from a flange, pointing up.
I also have my wires going through the shifter turret, you will eventually wear out the wires. I put a small piece of copper tube around that area, then wrapped it in electrical tape. The shift boot can crush the copper, but it still protects the wire. That works, or find another method. |
shift boot is best:
1. the sensor away from a turbo before the cat is ideal. 2. routing the wiring from the sensor in the exhaust to the controller is easy. 3. it keeps the controller under the dash and away from harsh environments where they fail. 4. there happens to be power and grounds at the dash. 5. the ECU is in the cabin for easy wiring. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1247951)
Careful, you'll have to ensure a perfect seal at that flange, or you'll introduce air and get a bad reading. I'd put it ~12-18" away from a flange, pointing up.
I also have my wires going through the shifter turret, you will eventually wear out the wires. I put a small piece of copper tube around that area, then wrapped it in electrical tape. The shift boot can crush the copper, but it still protects the wire. That works, or find another method. Keith |
Welded 6" from cat flange, at 12:30 looking from rear. lets hope she fits!
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Clears perfectly.
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