1.6 to 1.8 clutch and flywheel upgrade
 

:idea:Got the car all apart in the garage and have decided to do the 1.8 clutch in my 1.6 car. Got an OEM Mazda pp and disc, having a problem finding a 1.8 flywheel around here. Seen a bunch on Ebay. I'm thinking of the F1 lightweight flywheel at around 11lbs. Anyone ahve any stories on these, are they any good, does the flywheel really matter that much! Or should I play it safe and order a FM light flywheel. Up on stand at a standstill. Thanks for the input.

Ive read and heard lots of good news about the F1 flywheels. Stay away from the aluminum ones unless you really need to be that light. It's not worth the risk of over heat if ya don't need to. A lighter flywheel means better throttle response less rotating mass and the "feeling" of a bit more power. I just ordered mine a few days ago and can't wait to get it in. Its advised to have the clutch "kit" spin balance as a whole. Most of the balance sheets I've seen are very good out of the box however. Usually within .5g which is within the tolerance range.

Don't forget to do the rear main, trans input, pump, tail shaft seals and cps O-ring while your in there.

I have the F1 cromoly one. Zero issues, except the 8 mm threads for the bolts that hold the clutch cover to the flywheel are of a different thread, so I had to buy a bunch of those from a local hardware store. I had the balance checked and it was spot on.

thanks for the input, F1 it is. Be back after it gets here and in.

Did you have any problems with installation? My mechanic called me saying the slave cylinder is not pushing the rod far enough to move the clutch. Any ideas?

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...nt-have-78601/

FWIW. Strongly suggest adjusting clutch pedal first.

Personally, I'd not be putting cheapo, known-questionable goods (F1) in a spot that's hard to get to.

F1 clutches are notorious for this issue. this is what happens when you spend $50 on a clutch.

read the details, not an Fm clutch, exedy clutch with and fm flywheel, their flywheels have had great success.

Just bleed the slave 50 times more than you think is necessary, and then adjust the clutch pedal.

I put a F1 flywheel with the FM clutch on my 92. There were no problems putting it on except when the slave cylinder practicly exploded due to the extra force required to disengage / engage the clutch. I just picked up a replacement at auto zone for $15 and all is well. I didn't even have to adjust the pedal from stock.

Sorry. No Cunts Allowed.

Guess I saw that one coming. Newbs gotta wait till Scotty has his coffee.

Oh I had my coffee...he would have known if he read the details.

:brain:

Well fuck me. I didn't even catch that anyone mentioned an exedy clutch until just now. Working 12 hour night shifts messes with my train of thought.

it wasn't you. swartzzk bumped a two year old thread referencing an issue with F1 clutches.

LOLZ, I didn't see that until now! Damn it. :facepalm:

Those F1 units are tempting, has anyone lapped or raced with one?
For the price I'd be puckered up expecting it to scatter.

Clutches don't disengage, flywheels aren't fully machined. You get what you pay for.

And with the amount of work that it takes to swap out a clutch, spend the money on a good one the first time. 949 Racing, ACT, FM are the only clutch brands that I can recommend.

Something is bugging me here,.... why is a 1.6 to 1.8 clutch an "upgrade" ?

More mass = more gooder ?!?

:end sarcasm:

you say end sarcasm, but you sound completely serious...

yet the question remains

The larger 1.8 clutch can hold more torque, all else being equal. But the 949 1.6L clutch can take more torque than the transmission so that's a moot point. OP is just an idiot.

If you can't understand why a larger clutch is better, especially in an application when we are throwing much more torque at our drivetrain, then you really don't deserve to be on this site...

But like Failure said: All things being equal, the larger the diameter clutch, the larger the surface area, and the greater the holding capacity. That means, without any additional pedal effort, you can hold more torque just from the diameter size alone.

The last thing you want is to hit 15psi, only to start slipping your clutch at 4K--the automotive equivalent of limp-dick syndrome. The 1.6L clutch is undersized; mazda increased it from 200mm to 225mm with the addition of only 20hp and 200lbs of weight. If you want to increase the holding capacity of a 1.6L sized clutch to even hold 250rwhp, you must go with aggressive disc material, pucked discs, and/or very very heavy pressure plates. Or you can bump the size of the disc, and have plenty of options for clutches with minimal pedal effort that hold well over 300rwhp and feel very similar to a stock clutch.

I still don't get it. A 1.6l ACT XT will hold over 350 ft-lbs. Clutch flywheel and Disk are all significantly lighter with a smaller MOI if that is what your Idea of performance is about. I feel so little difference in drivability between a 1.6l clutch and a 1.8l clutch that are both designed for 350 ft-lbs I don’t even buy that as an argument. The smaller lighter clutch makes the car measurably faster.

The 1.6L ACT XT PP is as heavy as your mom and not fun to daily; especially for the member's here that have sore knees.
And since you're suggesting the 1.6L XT holds over 350tq (hint: it doesn't*), then it has a pucked disc and it's even more abominable and the idea that you'd ever suggest to another human being suggests to me how much you hate other people's well-being.
The 1.8L HD SS, light pressure plate, street disc, is rated at 245tq; you need a lot of boost to start slipping one of those and it drives just like a stock clutch without any extra effort.
More boost makes the car measurably faster as well.




* the highest rated ACT 1.6L kit is rated at 270tq.

Hey, Captain Obvious. Don't trip over your cape. Many a superhero was lost that way.
Yeah, I got the SuperMiata 1.6 clutch for my 1.8 and am more than happy with it.

Oh snap.

Don't 6MTs tend to grenade around 250 ft-lbs? On a scale of one to replacing a blown tranny every other month, I imagine a heavy clutch pedal would score fairly low.

Whoops, it appears you tripped on my ego on the way out...

Fun Fact: I have been driving a 1.6l ZM1-XTR4 for many years now with over 300 ft-lbs rear wheel torque. It is not hard to drive and lasts.

Do you drive it on the street and are you an incredible pussy like I am

Drove the car to work today. Very little difference in feel between the 1.6l XTG4 and a the 1.8L HD SS that I had in prior I also don't notice much differance between 4 and 6 puck. The rigid hub Im using makes some rattly buzzy noises but it doesn't blow the sprung center apart like both the 1.6l and 1.8l sprung centers did for me.

The thing that makes the car most annoying to daily drive isnt the clutch. Far and away it is the AWR motor mounts!

FWIW the Spec clutch I tried was freekin horible. It had a soft pedal but engagement that could be adjusted further off the floor but it was on/off and Juddery as hell. nearly impossible to smoothly launch and it wouldn't hold my torque even though it was rated higher than the ACT.

Bob

Spec clutches are a joke.

I personally just dont like heavy pressure plates and pucked discs and a especially a combination of both.

I had pretty much the same clutch you have now, and I really hated it. It was fatiguing and coupled with the lack of power steering made daily duty very straining and annoying. The puck disc required that caution/effort/focus be put on the launching technique at each stop light, else it drive through intersections like you're trying for 8 seconds on a wild bull.

I've had 4-5 different clutch kits on my car, and driven numerous setups and my favorite are ones like the FM2 that has just a touch more pedal effort than stock but that's still transparent to the fact that it can hold all the power your throw at it.

If the car was a track car, I wouldn't care like at all.

And yes, solid mounts are crazy. how many random screws/nuts/bolts do you find in your car on a weekly basis?

I find all sorts of stuff coming loose after installing AWR motor mounts. The last things that came loos were the nuts that hold the side window rails in the doors. It makes shifting so good when driven in anger though.

Drove the car to the grocery store yesterday with 275 Hoosiers mounted on 15X11 wheels. The grip levels aren’t too compatible with hauling groceries I found.

Help
 

Hi!

Sorry for reviving the thread...

I have a NA 1993 1.6 and coming soon add this upgrade 1.6 to 1.8 clutch and flywheel - (and JC m45,WI,Megasquirt, etc, etc...)

I would like to have your opinion about two options :

1)

Exedy Clutch Kit Fidanza Flywheel 90 05 Mazda Miata 1 6L 1 8L mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay

500$ :hustler:

2)

Exedy XTR Stage 2 Clutch Kit 94 05 Mazda MX 5 Miata 1 8L 04 05 mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay

FX 4140 Chromoly Flywheel 94 05 Mazda Miata MX 5 1 8L 2004 05 mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay

Total
330$:hsugh:



Greetings from Venezuela

no.

ACT HD, Flyin Miata, or 949 Clutches only.

although your JRSC wont have enough power to really push the limits of even a stock clutch. The Exedy Stage 1 is fine. The Stage 2 is absolutely retarded for a street car.

Braineack
OK!

My option could be (1.6 to 1.8) :

1)
Exedy Clutch Pro Kit 1994 2005 Mazda Miata MX 5 1 8L mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay

and

1.1)
94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 Mazda MX 5 Miata 1 8L Manual Standard Flywheel BP | eBay

2)

Or Stock stage 1 Exedy 1.6 (200mm) is enough for my Little JRSC ?

- I hope 140-150 hp max on my setup...

I've seen the Exedy Stage 1 hold over 220tq fine.

I wouldn't get the Pro-kit one you linked, but the Stage 1.

Excellent

Thank you Braineack!

RWtq, or FWtq?

all TQ figures I'll ever state are at the wheels, since we dyno at the wheels and dont typically pull the motor to do so.

I hate to be retardedly redundant, but stage 1 as in this feller here...

Exedy Racing Stage 1 Organic Clutch Kit 1990 1993 Mazda Miata 1 6L I4 DOHC B6 ZE | eBay

If it holds till rod breaking territory then slips and still drives mostly stock, I think I might like that thing. Seems a cheap choice with my stock FW...

Not sure if it was a 1.8L or 1.6L clutch but I always recommend putting in a 1.8L sized clutch anyway--it will always hold more TQ all other things being equal.

It's $310 from the same seller. The FM STG1 is $350. and the ACT ZM2-HDSS is $460.

Dont see the 949 on their website anymore.

My car's previous owner had a 1.8 flywheel with oem clutch on my 1.6L JRSC, it lasted about 10000 miles and it started slipping. That was at 8psi

I need me a 1.8 FW still I guess. Ebay lists the 1.6 stage 1 at 210ftlbs, but everywhere else is 130ftlbs or so...

Getting back to FM prices again, may as well just do it right I guess.

Yes do the clutch the right way, mostly because it is a PITA to pull the trans and replace the clutch after you go cheap and then something fucks up.

When you go from a 200mm ACT HD to a 215mm the TQ load goes from 195 to 245. That's about 20% better with the same level PP and clutch disc.

here's directly from Exedy:

a 20% increase in TQ as well.

I just wouldn't use a 1.6L sized clutch for boost unless you get a super heavy PP with higher clamping loads. If you look at the difference in the diaphragm springs, it's apparent why:

teeny tiny:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415643121
vs.
large and in charge:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415643121

The light weight FX 4140 CHROMOLY FLYWHEEL is worth it. I have been running one with a 949 sport clutch for a month now and don't have any complaints. I would not cheap out on the clucth kit, but the flywheel works.

I'd like a light flywheel, and I'd order a ebay one, but I'm still thinking about trying to find a cheap stock 1.8 wheel. ~$400 bucks with the FM stage 1, hopefully.

there's like 20-40 of them avaiable for less than $40 on car-part.com

I have the lightweight chromoly f1 flywheel and track the shit out of it with no complaints. It's very easy to DD as well. It's one of the best mod I've done.

Interesting
 

:eek:



The new 1.8 flywheel is bolt on direct on 1.6 models?

Any problem with the starter or gearbox case?

130 at the wheel