6 speed transmission help
 

Okay, so the master cylinder went out on me the other day, and I limped my 10AE home and changed it. when I got up and running again, I can't for the life of me shift into 5th or reverse. Any ideas what's going on here? Thanks

Did you take any plugs or bolts out the trans, any springs or or steel balls fall out?

This is a better question for m.net.

Nope.

I just posted there too. Apologies if this isn't exactly appropriate for this forum.

Did you bleed the all of the air out of the clutch line?

Yeah, I bled it.

Well ok then I assumed you did but, kinda need more symptoms of your problem can you shift the trans through all 6 gears and reverse with the engine off, with it idling, can you double clutch and shift into reverse, or will the lever just no go into the 5-6 or reverse gate. How does your clutch pedal feel? Can't tell you whats wrong with your trans until we know all the symptoms.

Reasonable enough. with the engine off, I can shift 1-4, and 6 no problem. Idling and driving, same thing. The pedal feels just fine, too. I just cannot get into 5th or reverse. Am I right in thinking that these trannys have a synchro for 5-r?

Well did remove any plugs from the trans in the 6spd 5th and reverse are on the same fork and there is a plug you can remove that would cause it not to shift into 5th or reverse on the same of the trans as the clutch slave cylinder. Other than that try bleeding it again if you didn't unbolt anything from the trans.

did you have someone helping you with the clutch work?

My dad did the clutch pedal-pumping for me.

IF, through this process you didn't touch any bolts or 'drain plugs' on the 6 speed, you may have bent something while you were limping home. Describe that drive - Start in gear and rev-matching? Slow crawl in 1st gear? Did you get to 5th or use reverse?

That's what I'm starting to think. I rev matched and was mainly in 4th. I'm ashamed to say there was some jerking involved.

OK, I just wanted to make sure that someone else wasn't under the car and loosened something up without you knowing, only to hear a "clunk" inside the transmission and screwing that something back in before you figured out what happened.

There are plugs and bolts on the transmission which, if removed, cause problems which are only correctable with a complete teardown/rebuild.

Bent 5/R shift fork. The part isn't too expensive, but I'd have a professional install it.

New master cylinder... maybe the throw is slightly different? Does the clutch seem to engage closer or further from the floor now?

Been researching this and if you didn't change the fluids, leaning towards bent fork

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Turns out it was a bent 5-r fork, and 2 synchros. The shop kind of screwed me over, and is asking me $1,575 for work I didn't ask them to do(replacement of all small parts), so I'm telling them to shove it. Throwing a five speed in instead. Thanks for the advice, everyone.

So do they get a free 6 speed? What exactly were your instructions to them?

I told them to tear it down, call me and tell me what was wrong/how much it would be, and we'd go from there. They called and told me the aforementioned problems, and they said they would call back after they checked the prices. next day, They call and tell me they went ahead and replaced the small parts, and that i owed them $1575. Flabberghasted, I told them I'd come by the next day. That's where I stand right now with them.

If they did work without authorization, they can pound sand on the $1,500. :vash2: Tell them you didn't authorize any work to be done and that you want the transmission back in the condition they got it in. If there was a diagnostic fee agreed, you will pay that. If they don't want to eat the labor to take the new parts out and replace them with the old parts (or they tossed the old parts), tell them you may be willing to pay their cost for the parts but you want to see the invoices of everything they put in.

Remind them they were supposed to get back to you with the costs, NOT do the work and that you would not have agreed to $1,500. You could have bought a new 6 speed for half that and sold your broken one for a few hundred to help cover part of the cost.

Well, before any of this happened, we agreed that if I didn't like the price, they kept it.

Well they screwed you as soon as you agreed to that.

Unless there is something about the story we haven't heard yet, this is really f*cked. Try this and see if it makes sense:

You car is running a little rough. Bring it to me and I'll check out a few things. If the damage is too bad and you don't like the cost, I'll just keep the car for my trouble. You come back the next week to see how the car is doing:

I have installed a 2.0l stroker with all the trimmings with a full EFR hotside and want $20k for my work. Since you don't like the cost, I'll just keep it. :fawk:

They have $100 in parts and $200 in shop time into your free transmission that they will be selling for $1k at their first convenience. It's total BS but you can't make a deal with a shop that gives them hardware if you don't like the cost of the repair. Next time find a shop that will charge a flat rate to diagnose and go from there. Most shops would waive the diag fee if you have the repair done with them.

A verbal agreement probably means nothing, both ways. It's your transmission, ask for it back in the condition you gave it to them, or for cost for the parts in it now. They did unauthorized work, end of story.

Buy a used 6 speed while you take them to small claims. Sell your refurbished 6 speed when you get it from them. Profit.

Go get a lawyer friend to write up a letter of intent to sue.

Take letter to shop, hand to owner, walk out, don't say a word.

Wait in the parking lot for your phone to ring from the shop owner asking if you'd like to "settle" for $250 - get him to agree on $200 cash out the door.

Profit.