Alignment numbers for turbod miatas
 

Just wondering if any of you changed your alignment settings once you had more power in the car. I'm running 2.3/2.0 camber front to rear, 4 degrees of caster, zero toe up front and 1/16" in in the rear. My suspension setup is in my sig. With the 15x9 6ULs and the 225/45/15 RS2 I installed this week the car is go-kart sensetive now, follows every groove in the road and turns really quickly. It is very neutral in turns without but without any unpredictable oversteer, which I love. Still, I'm wondering if this will be too twitchy when I have ~250hp especially at 80mph+. So what specs are you guys using and how do you like it?

P.S. I'm glad there's finally a section for this stuff.:cool:

You'll definitely get more throttle-input oversteer all things being equal, but it's hard to say how your particular setup will react to more power.

do it, drive it, change as needed.

I could stand a little bit extra negative camber in the rear for the extra power.

but remember, the tradeoff for lots of negative camber is decreased straight line traction (braking for for the front wheels and acceleration for the rear wheels) because of the distorted contact patch with the wheels not-normal to the ground.

Mine's max caster, -1.8 camber front, -2 rear, zero toe front, 1/4" in rear. Works well enough.. but I have so little body roll that I think I can get away with dialing out some camber and save on tires/launch better.

1/4 toe in in the rear seems huge, no? What's your suspension setup like?

700F/325R
Bilstein HD w/ SM valving
RB enlinks
RB swaybar reinforcement
25mm solid front bar
15mm solid rear bar
FCM tophats
FCM 40mm bumpstops

Stock suspension = stock alignment.

here are new alignment im proposing for my car when its done. im still not sure about camber up front...

-2.4 to -2.8 degrees camber front
-2 degrees camber rear
max caster
1/16 toe out front
0 toe rear

that is track setup though... my specs are in that "specs thread" if interested

Urban, that seems like a whole lot of camber. are you running soft springs? You may be sacrificing a lot of braking grip and even grip under power.

nah, thats about right where i want it to be for what i do :)

MY settings are all out of wack, however i just got my car corner weighed today and have a 50% cross weight at a ride height of 11.75F and 12.3R ill be trying emilio's "race" allignment next

Maybe he's running soft tires?

that smells like oversteer. most miatas run about a half degree more camber in the rear... but maybe it's driving style.

maybe it's drifto driving style...

no, thats just for soft tires im planning to run on track. also, there shouldnt be any oversteer with my setup and this alignment as 1.5-way diff adds understeer to my perfectly neutral suspension and i have to balance it out a bit.

i forget... you turbo?

incidentally, lifting mid-corner with that diff and setup = loop-de-loop

Emilio recommends the exact opposite, 2.7-2.8 front and 2.3 rear. He says it adds mid-corner grip without sacrificing much on the exit.

i am turbo. well... waiting on package from begi.

this thread needs more specs. i need to re-do my alignment

Car weighs 2046lbs.
300 rwhp
50/50 cross bias
375/250 spring rates
stock front bar, swap between stock rear bar and none.
torsen of course

auto-xing last week with -2.5 degrees in the rear i had no grip out of turns on my Nitto 225/45/15 NT-01s. Car was last aligned before turbo.

Just had it aligned Tuesday to the following specs.
FRONT
-1.5 camber
4.0 caster (manual rack)
-1/8 total toe

REAR
-1.0
1/16 total

Will find out this Sunday how it does.

Btw, during the morning session it was pouring and the car was fucking awesome. Of course I was a bit more conservative with the throttle. In the dry when I'd drop the hammer it just couldn't hold.

Depends on where you plan on driving the car. Often it seems people setup with a front -neg camber bias for the track and a rear -neg camber bias for autocross.

That's funny. I had a icehawk alignment before and it more understeer in lower speed tight turns. With front camber bias this is gone. The only problem I have now is that at highway speeds it feels like it will change lanes if I blink wrong and the steering is very light even with no PS. Not sure if I will add toe in at the front or add caster.

Running
2.5 front
2.7 back
1/16 out front
1/16 in rear
4 caster appx- don't have the settings sheet at hand
ride height 12.5 front 13.5 rear

15x8 225/50/15 RS2 all around

handling is fucking amazing compared to other setups i've had

1000 miles on this setting so far and wear looks pretty even

done at York automotive mt. airy maryland.

only at -1.7F and -2.7R, but I agree, the camber in the rear is very nice.

You sure you have that right?

Keep the specs coming guys.
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If your car is twitchy on the freeway its due to toe out or no toe at all, camber shouldent afect that to much. for the street 1/16 to 1/8 toe in is better for the track the exact oposit will give you faster turn in and steering responce in general.

Anyone have recommendations for daily driving but still improve handling?
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Maybe I am confused, but Urban's "track" setup is pretty close to what I use for autocross

and Paul's "Autocross" setup sounds more like what I hear the track guys run.


Just for the record.

Koni 2812's
750#/400# springs
Keizer 15x10 6" backspace
Hoosier A6 275/35/15
4.30 Torsen rear end swap
All measures with driver in car.

Alignment settings
Front
Camber -2.9/-2.9
Caster 6.3/6.2 ( love those offset bushings)
Toe -0.17 degrees ( that should be a little more than 1/8 total toe out)
Rear
Camber -2.2/-2.2
Toe 0.06 (slightly less than a 16th toe in)
Thrust angle -0.04

Corner weights

http://www.systemstrategies.com/miat...htsFeb2008.JPG
*corner weight calculation courtesy of Dennis Grant FarNorthRacing.com

Daily driven -1 camber and 1/16-1/8 in, in the front, -1.5 1/16-1/8th out in the rear drives nice with no tire wear isues or jumpieness at all. But this is just for daily street driver.

Interesting numbers, Chris. My current setup-

Front:
Camber -1.5°
Caster +5.2, +5.7 (couldn't quite get them even)
Toe 0

Rear:
Camber -2°
Toe 0

I'm running 318/233 springs, FCM-revalved Bilsteins, a 7/8" front bar, no rear bar. Tires are RE-01R on 15x7. This is 80% daily driver, 20% autocrosser and canyon carver.

The setup is quite neutral and even-tempered. On trailing throttle you get just a touch of understeer, with the application of power very nicely shifting the vehicle into oversteer. Once the rear tires break loose, you can recover the car almost instantly simply by letting off the throttle.