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Anyone ever break an axle?
Anyone have any experience with this? What options are out there for replacement?
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OEM replacement? Well for the amount of power/abuse you put that car through, you may look for a beefier set.
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Refurb axles can be had at most large auto part stores for around $100 a pop with at large core charge. I think my cost for two with core charge was over $300 but they look and should act as new.
If you need beefier axles then the spline count in your diff is going to limit you quite a bit. 1994+ lsds are 26 spline. Mazdaspeed has a beefier 28 spline axle at least on the Diff side but not sure about the spline that goes into the hub. Honda S2000 use the same 28 spline as the mazdaspeed and look quite sturdy. Hope that helps but I don't think axle breakage appears to be a major concern under 300Hp from what I have found. |
i think Jay has over 300 ponies with that monster turbo
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With over 300 HP I would look into a 28 spline LSD and mazdaspeed axles. That could get a little $$ though. The fellow who is building my diff mentioned to me that he was thinking about constructing some S2000 axle hybrids for Madaspeeds because the MSM ones are so hard to find. The guy builds mostly S2000 Diffs for high HP cars. Said he was building a carbon fiber diffs for the Honda S2000 drift team. Those must cost $$$
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What about driveshaft shop axles?
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Have you actually broken one or are you inventing things to worry about?
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https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t26526-3/#post428278
Originally Posted by JayL;
What a night. Went out to the strip tonight to see if I could get that 11 second pass. These new tires are awesome and made me feel like I was learning to drag race all over again. First pass out was just a light launch just to get a feel for how sticky they were, it bogged. Second pass, launch control held it at 3500, dumped the clutch and it died. Third pass, launch control held it at 4500, dumped the clutch and it jumped forward and bogged. Fourth pass, same thing. Fifth pass, launch control held it at 5000, dumped the clutch and I broke the drivers side axle. Haven't gotten the car up in the air to inspect the damage, but I'm pretty sure that's the only thing wrong with it. Here's the times from my runs and the damage photos will be coming tomorrow night.
1st 13.7 @ 111 2nd 19.9 @ 115 3rd 12.2 @ 117 4th 12.4 @ 118 5th DNF Definitely not my best night at the track, but it was fun regardless. |
Well fuck you too.
MSM axles are bigger. Not sure whether they are drop-in replacements, with this talk about spline counts and such. Might want to get in contact with Eliminator77 on the Mnet boards and see what he's done. |
:fawk:
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The MSM stuff is bigger, but from what I am being told it won't work with my current diff. Even being a little bit bigger, I don't think it will like what I plan on doing to it.
I like the potential options from Boss Frog and V8 Roadsters. What kind of bracing does the transmission require at this point? What will the new weak are be in the rear? Will this new weak area handle what I want to do with it? Are these the only two options out there? Would just going with a custom set of axles for what I already have be a better solution? Or even a solid axle rear end? |
Originally Posted by JayL
(Post 428442)
The MSM stuff is bigger, but from what I am being told it won't work with my current diff. Even being a little bit bigger, I don't think it will like what I plan on doing to it.
I like the potential options from Boss Frog and V8 Roadsters. What kind of bracing does the transmission require at this point? What will the new weak are be in the rear? Will this new weak area handle what I want to do with it? Are these the only two options out there? Would just going with a custom set of axles for what I already have be a better solution? Or even a solid axle rear end? Honda drivers are constantly breaking axles and they have companies that make stronger ones for them. Gator I think is one of them? Try and look around their forum and get in contact with one of the companies and explain your situation...i'm sure they'd make something for you. |
Originally Posted by wayne_curr
(Post 428444)
I know you dont care about handling or whatever but this just seems over the top.
Originally Posted by wayne_curr
(Post 428444)
Honda drivers are constantly breaking axles and they have companies that make stronger ones for them. Gator I think is one of them? Try and look around their forum and get in contact with one of the companies and explain your situation...i'm sure they'd make something for you.
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Just heard back from Driveshaft Shop with what they can offer. Here's what they had to say.
yes we can make a set, what have done in the past is taken the factory inner c.v and cut off the c.v. section and installed one of our billet ones, we then use a chromoly outer we have that fits the wheel side and make it with a larger center bar. it will handle what you need and cost would be about 800.00 for the pair |
$800 later and you'll have strong axles but a diff that keeps exploding. might as well upgrade the whole thing
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Originally Posted by Mach929
(Post 428618)
$800 later and you'll have strong axles but a diff that keeps exploding. might as well upgrade the whole thing
I keep thinking that upgrading everything is probably the best thing to do. My wife is even telling more to do it. I'm just having a hard time swallowing the $3000 cost in doing it correctly (I want to build a Westfield). |
I assume you have a six speed already? If I was going big power, I'd just do a 8.8 Ford/V8 swap kit rear and make a tranny brace and then look for the next weak link which will likely be the tranny.
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The car has a 6 speed and a clutch type lsd with cryo-treated ring and pinion. The original plan was for the clutch to slip long before any of these problems showed up.
After thinking about it more and more, I might just take a different approach at going fast. Instead of lowering my 60ft to lower my ET, it might just be cheaper to add more power and get all the gains on the big end. |
Try not doing much of a burnout if the track is really sticky.
Also you can try launching at a higher rpm without launch control. With slicks on my FC I was able to do this and save axles while dumping the clutch at ~7000rpm(floor gas pedal, dump clutch when tach reaches 7k ish). That way the driveline at least gets to preload before the turbo spools and you start producing some torque. I was still pulling 1.5-1.6 60ft's using this method. |
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