anyone going to try 949's brake upgrade?
 

Where u been?

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28696/
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33298/
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Well crap, I missed that one tiny part on there that says it's from m-tuned, sorry. Any feedback from those who have a thousand miles or so logged with them installed? How much bias will I need if I already upgraded to 1.8 brakes all around?

If you have a 1.6L you really need an adjustable proportional valve or one off a new miata. That or better rear pads.

That hardware looks awful shiny. Is it Grade 8 stuff?

I always wondered how the proportioning valves worked. Basically its a pin that gets threaded into the brake fluid passage, but doesn't the pressure end up equalling out after some time after the brake was pressed?

I don't have 1k miles on yet. Just installed the M-tuned 11' brackets last week. In 3 days I put 400 street miles and 2 hours of track time on them though.

Something is allowing the caliper bracket to move in relation to the rotor. One of the nubs in the caliper bracket moves slightly to contact the inside face of the rotor. I should have taken everything back off and filed that nub down farther than I did 1st time. Lazy though and the track day took care of that for me. I can't see the little groove in the rotor since they are on the inside. Out of sight, out of mind.

I've got a 94 so I've already got the 1.8 system. I'm running carbotech xp10's up front and xp8's in the rear. Stock calipers, stock prop valve, stock brake lines, stock brake cylinder. Balance at the track was excellent. No problems. Was expecting too much front bias but was pleasantly suprised. An SCCA nationals driver drove it for a few laps and thought the brakes were set up great. I didn't tell him about the corrado rotor mod before hand.

FM has a tech article on their site RE: prop valves. Read it.

So the prop valves are different between a 1.6 and 1.8 NA? I already have 1.8 brakes front and rear on my 90.

Since those instructions were too difficult. Here's me holding your hand and walking you to your answer.:facepalm:

Flyin' Miata : Tech: Stock proportioning valve information

braking in rain was fun today. stops awesome. i have women all over me now!!!

The % values shown in the chart are % front bias, yes? :noob:

Anyone?

If only there was an article which went into detail about the differences between the years' prop valves. Someone should find it and link it here. Maybe try FM's site?

YOU STUPID FUCKER I SWEAR TO GOD:


http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/stock_bpv.php



one more stupid responce, i dare you.

I believe that is the percentage that the rear is of the front. So the higher the number, the more REAR biased the prop valve.


From this it looks like the 1.6L cars have the most front biased prop valve. Thus Brain's comment that 1.6L cars will need a (Wilwood) prop valve or stickier pads in the rear.


I really wanna do this mod, but don't want to source 15" wheels.





btw, zoomin, I'm going to come out and say it:

you're sofa king we todd it

EDIT: Brain beat me to it damnit.


And don't EVER fucking quote yourself in a thread when you CAN'T FUCKING TAKE THE TIME TO READ THE RESPONSES acting like no one's paying attention to you when you don't even know which direction the wind is blowing fuckface.

We are in the process of making a 10.9" rear kit. Hoping to have a test version for my car very soon! Emilio @ 949Racing will also have the rear kit when complete.

This would make buying 6ULs just a little more worth it.

Amen.

My Nickel 6UL's will be here in less than a month, man I can't wait!! And you guys need to chill out a bit.

Shut your mouth.

I just installed Porterfield RS4 race pads with some used (turned) rotors. I have 1.8 brakes with 1.6 calipers. It sat for a while outside in the rain before I drove it, and the rotors rusted. No biggie, I know it wears off, but the new pads haven't worn off the rust on the inside of the friction surface on the front rotors. This is exactly how the last two sets of Hawk HP+ pads wore, they came off the car in a wedge shape, with a lot of wear on the inside of the pad, with about 30-40% on the outside.

Does anyone think that maybe running the 1.6 calipers with the 1.8 rotors/pads/caliper brackets is a bad idea? Or are the calipers EXACTLY the same? it appears the little "prongs" that press on the pad might be too short, or bent. Said prongs are circled in red. Not my car, if anyone wants to see the proof of my non-derusted rotors, I can take a pictures tomorrow when its light out.

Attachment 206541

I thought that was a known issue, and that the 1.8L front calipers should be upgraded along with the brackets.

I can't believe you were treated so kindly! You ignored everyone trying to help you, seemed to refuse to do anything yourself and then came up with "anyone" when all the answers were spoonfed to you. :vash: This ain't Mnet. You'll get your peepee spanked when you are being a complete idiot.

Post up a vid on youtube of you punching yourself in the face several times and some around here might actually try to help you again. Otherwise I think you are out of luck getting help in the future.

If that's the case I'll be buying some used 1.8 calipers, I don't wanna ruin my new pads. Can anyone else varify?

Maybe I should stop posting while trying to study for finals, I promise I'm not normally this retarded!!

What I read up on was mainly about the pads sitting properly between the caliper and the bracket. I believe the larger pads have different tabs on them.

It was also noted that the 1.8L calipers have longer fingers on them.

Between the two I decided it was best to find a set of calipers with brackets to do the upgrade.

If you need 1.8 calipers let me know, a friend of mine parts out and builds spec Miatas as well as other track prepped cars, usually has 8-10 Miatas on average for parts. I actually need to head up there this week due to a cracked rear rotor and could pick some up if needed. It's almost an hour one way, so I try to not drive up too often. I think I might hit him up for some 1.8 prop valves if anyone is interested.

Unless my '94 has 1.6 calipers for some reason, I get the same wear issues if I get the brakes REALLY hot. I am able to wear street pads evenly, and I wore a set of Raybestos ST-43s and half a set of Carbotech XP12s evenly, but once I started going really fast the brakes overheated and I warped backing plates on 3 sets of pads. I need to pull the front brakes apart again (4th or 5th time in 4 weeks), replace the pads, and see how they wore at Buttonwillow.

I can't get it to load at work, but it should tell you what % of pressure goes to the rear compared to the front. The rears get less than the front, hence "front bias". With too little front bias, you risk spinning your car like a top when apply the flaps.

The calipers from the 90-97 are the same IIRC.


In it's lowest setting the Wilwood proportioning valve puts the rears at a 57% reduction, i needed more still, but it was an improvement over the stocker.

If so then there was a thread here a few months back that is misinforming folks.

I read in more than one instance that I should get the 1.8L* calipers as well as the brackets to avoid funny wear on the pads.

My '92 and '95>96 FSM show the same part number for the "body & piston"

NA75-33-71X
NA75-33-61X

Cool, thanks, I won't worry about sourcing calipers then.

So you're running the original 1.6L calipers with your Corrado rotors no problem?

This is the exact setup I'm shooting for.

correct. 1.6L calipers, 1.8L brackets & pads, and corrado rotors.

I get the angled wear at track days also. Stock 94 calipers and brackets. In my research into upgrading to bigger calipers many of the 6 piston units have varied size pistons from the front to back to prevent this. Savington had posted up a really good pic showing this wear pattern. Mines never been quite this extreme and is as much front to back as top to bottom!

Attachment 206533

There you go redeeming yourself. Good job!

I wish I took a picture of mine. i've gone to the backing plates on the track (ebc redstuff @ 170rwhp), but it was perfectly even wear.

Thanks again for the clarification.

Looks like some guys are just too hard for any Miata calipers on the track.

That's exactly how my last two sets of tracked HP+ pads have looked, there's a lot of life left in that pad if it wore evenly.

thanks disappointing... you have it turned all the way in and your still not getting enough rear bias?

I was checking parts the other night and my 90 calipers are much different than the 97's on the car. the piston is smaller and the "fingers" are shorter. I'll snap a pic tonight to compare the two.

no, that's its "lowest" setting. With it set at it's lowest setting you can reduce the rear pressure 57%. I'm not reducing it that much....I have plenty more room to increase the rears if need be. I'll probably have to crank it up when I put my xp10/xp8s on.

NA6 and NA8 calipers are indeed different. NA8 brackets on NA6 calipers work, but are not the most ideal set up. Uneven pad wear is a symptom of single piston calipers.


Front brakes are always 100%. Rear brakes are always less*

*under light braking, the prop valve does not reduce pressure to the rears.

Don't worry folks.. Our rear 10.9" kit will help solve a lot of your bias issues.

So in Wilwood's site it says its maximum setting (all the way screwed out I believe) is 57%. That means that when all the way screwed out, my rear brakes are at 57% of my front's, which is 3% less than my stock '93 proportioning valve, is this all correct? I have mine cranked all the way down (which means they're getting the same pressure as the fronts, right?) and I still can't get the rears to lock up first, its very frustrating.

Ben, you say uneven pad wear is a symptom of single piston calipers, do you think putting 1.8 calipers on would help, or would it not be worth it until upgrading to multi-piston calipers?

First, what pads are you running? If you have a less aggressive compound in the rear, you'll lock fronts first all day long.

1.8 calipers are single piston too. I am looking into a Wilwood or AP Racing upgrade right now.

A bracket that allows us to run generic Willwood calipers and big rotors would be nice.
Wilwood Brakes, Hubs & Brake Lines

Chris

Sav,

Here's the three Wilwood options that looked best to me for a complete front system. You've seen it, it's at the end of your "do I need big brakes" thread.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33100-3/#post390723

Best prices I found for Wilwood are at Autofab race cars. They don't/can't publish them. Gotta email or call with the part #'s you want.

Found a company several weeks ago that makes maybe 50 models of aluminum caliper brackets. Of course I didn't bookmark them.... Gotta find them again. They are a likely prospect for getting something made for us cheap diy guys.

cool, I'm still tinkering with mine. I just misread your post, too much work and not enough :brain:. you might want to run the same compound front and rear.

I have mine 3 full turns in and I'm still able to lock the front pretty easy. I'm running the same compound front and rear BTW.

are most people running theirs cranked all the way closed? I realize that everyone will be running different set-ups, just curious if most are using all the bias the prop valve has to offer.

I took mine out of the package and cranked it in 20+ turns before even installing it. It's not totally bottomed out, but it's damn close.

I'm running porterfield rs4 race pads on all four corners, so it's really bugging me that I can't lock up the rears. Locking the fronts is not a challenge what so ever. For $60 or so for used 1.8 calipers, It would be worth it for the longer prongs to help keep down on the taper pad wear.

The Miatas when running a decent suspension, 15x9's with race tires and a wing can use a surprising mount of rear brack. Top stock class autocrossers have been known to run a softer pad in rear. The OGK has a Wilwood BBK with 11" rotors front and rear running XP12's F & R also. With that combo, I'm finally able to run the prop valve somewhere other than wide open (max rear).

For most guys with Spec Miata-ish set ups, one compound softer in front like 10/8. For the really fast winged cars I'm recommending 12/12.