AP Racing 11.75" Rotors for your BBK
#1
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AP Racing 11.75" Rotors for your BBK
We're working with Essex - AP Racing's US distributor - on a few upcoming projects. AP needs no introduction, their stuff is on championship winning cars from LeMans to Daytona. One of the benefits of our new relationship with them is AP's 11.75" rotors that are direct fit with any kit that uses the 11.75" Wilwood rotor. These are AP Racing's curved vane, J hook rotors. Perfect for high horsepower applications, engine swaps, road racing, endurance racing, etc. Basically in any case where you'd have a car eating through other rotors, switch to these.
Link to AP Racing rotor replacements
The best part is we have these on our shelf ready to ship, and we'll be keeping these in stock so you can rely on being able to get them.
Link to AP Racing rotor replacements
The best part is we have these on our shelf ready to ship, and we'll be keeping these in stock so you can rely on being able to get them.
Last edited by ThePass; 09-16-2016 at 11:51 AM.
#8
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Fixed the link, thanks.
The cheap wilwood rotors have their place. Street and autocross cars that put relatively light duty through the rotors are fine on those. Low power HPDE stuff with a novice to intermediate driver also OK. I would not run the cheap rotors on anything with decent power at the track. It's more than just a lifespan issue (which is no contest), it's also consistency, rotor temperature, pad life, etc. etc. For the endurance racers, they must run a rotor like this - the wilwoods are out of the question - but they are far from the only ones who can benefit a lot from a much better rotor. Not to mention, I'd rather still be on my first set of rotors when the guy running wilwoods would be doing his third or fourth rotor swap. There's a lot of areas of the car to keep an eye on and maintain, I want to use parts that last.
The cheap wilwood rotors have their place. Street and autocross cars that put relatively light duty through the rotors are fine on those. Low power HPDE stuff with a novice to intermediate driver also OK. I would not run the cheap rotors on anything with decent power at the track. It's more than just a lifespan issue (which is no contest), it's also consistency, rotor temperature, pad life, etc. etc. For the endurance racers, they must run a rotor like this - the wilwoods are out of the question - but they are far from the only ones who can benefit a lot from a much better rotor. Not to mention, I'd rather still be on my first set of rotors when the guy running wilwoods would be doing his third or fourth rotor swap. There's a lot of areas of the car to keep an eye on and maintain, I want to use parts that last.
#9
Is there any quantifiable test data to help us visualize the difference? I have a high horsepower car that will hopefully be getting back on the track soon. I am not an advanced driver and am not expecting to be competitive in anything as I just do HPDE for fun. This means I generally go for the best value in my parts and not necessarily the top performance. I am willing to spend the money if it can be proven that it is worth it but rotors seem to be one of those areas that I have seen plenty of people do just fine with the basics. Not trying to be combative but you gotta sell me with data instead of claims.
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It can take years to go through one set of good rotors for someone who isn't at the track every weekend so the data doesn't develop overnight. For that reason, the reports we're getting from endurance racers are the most useful so far because they're getting so much race time in such an accelerated timeframe, but of course reports from others aren't as solid as data we collect ourselves and sometimes we don't have all the details, so I'm speaking in averages here from info from various cars but overall they're saying it's no comparison - wilwood rotors couldn't last one event and the AP's are doing multiple events, with a big jump in pad life from aballpark of 5-8 hours now up to 12+ hours. I'll be running these on Hyper (my car) with the new engine config. Top pic is the assembly going on that car. I plan to do some A/B tests so we have direct data once that car's up and running.
My recommendation for most guys unless they're doing full-on racing is to start off with a set of the wilwood rotors, see how those last you and then go from there. Most of the guys calling us asking for a high quality 11.75" rotor are calling after they burned through a set of the wilwoods and don't want to do that again.
My recommendation for most guys unless they're doing full-on racing is to start off with a set of the wilwood rotors, see how those last you and then go from there. Most of the guys calling us asking for a high quality 11.75" rotor are calling after they burned through a set of the wilwoods and don't want to do that again.
Last edited by ThePass; 09-16-2016 at 04:05 PM.
#11
Thanks for making these available to the Miata community. I'll likely pick up a set, since the quality on the Wilwood rotors seems to be pretty hit-or-miss and they do need to be changed often.
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#13
The real question is whether they are going to result in a savings of $102 over the life of the rotor through a combination of extended rotor and pad life.
My guess is that they are only possibly worth it for endurance racers that might be able to avoid an extra pad change.
My guess is that they are only possibly worth it for endurance racers that might be able to avoid an extra pad change.
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I am not having issues with going through rotors, but I think I might just not be using my cars brakes that hard.
That being said, I really want some awesome J-hook goodness. I'm in.
That being said, I really want some awesome J-hook goodness. I'm in.
#17
Depending on the pads used you may or may not need gas slots. That could be a deciding factor alone.
We used AP rotors on our Continental challenge Camaro. They performed flawlessly.
#20
The common listing seems to be "AP Racing 28 Vane J-Hook Brake Rotor RH - .810" - 11.75" - 8 Bolt" (and LH of course).
Very similarly listed in price to the Wilwood HD/GT 36.
But with my rotor consumption it will probably take about 4 years before it's time to consider a rotor change (the GT 36 have now seen about one hour of use), or even longer since I could make the 1.8 255mm rotors last four years with XP12 (but they were on the thin side at the end).
Who knows what's available in 2020, but Both AP and Wilwood seems to keep products for a long time.
Very similarly listed in price to the Wilwood HD/GT 36.
But with my rotor consumption it will probably take about 4 years before it's time to consider a rotor change (the GT 36 have now seen about one hour of use), or even longer since I could make the 1.8 255mm rotors last four years with XP12 (but they were on the thin side at the end).
Who knows what's available in 2020, but Both AP and Wilwood seems to keep products for a long time.