Originally Posted by darbyfam
(Post 296929)
Miatas tend to have a less-than-optimum braking bias. Try using stock pads up front and something a little more aggressive in the back. I personally run Hawks in the back.
HIH |
Originally Posted by Project84
(Post 296661)
For $60 per axle, I'm just gonna opt for the Hawk pads at $68. You live and you learn.
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I dont know why ANYBODY would run staggered pads when they are in SM2 anyway. Where a proper proportioning valve is legal.
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Me neither, but at least the front pads were cheap... I should've trusted my instincts.
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Carbotech Bobcats. They're ceramic, don't dust or squeel and stop on a dime. They also have pretty good longevity. IMHO they are a street/autox pad that can't be beat.
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Originally Posted by soloracer
(Post 296974)
You're convinced this thing is a Camaro aren't you?? :)
I bought NAPA rotors, still trying to decide on pads. |
anyone running NB with Axxis ultimates?
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Went w/ Napa pads (ultimate 8) as well.... still no wheel time though, walbro didn't solve my problem!
car still no start :( |
I've been running the Axxis ultimates for 6 months or so, i really recommend them.
I don't do Autocross, but the tracks here are very tight and twisty basically slightly large go-kart tracks or actual go-kart tracks. Even with no engine breaking (Auto) and around 220bhp the brakes are great for a 15-20 min session with no fade. I can't do that on stock pads. Cheers Mark |
power/weight will be very similar, but because your camaro is much heavier, it'll eat through pads and tires like crazy. which is why camaros, firebirds, and corvettes have that reputation.
I have the NAPA rotor & Hawk HPS pad combo, along with FM stainless steel lines. its an awesome setup, but I do only run track days, not autocross, so I'm taking the first lap to heat up my tires and supposedly the brakes. who knows if they're any good cold, I just know the tires aren't. P.S. my friend upgraded his '91 firebird to C5 front brakes and C5 wheels/tires. those brakes are huge, best $750 he spent. |
In classing if you swap to a C5 setup on an F-Body it bumps you into SM I believe. I know I cannot afford to get past ESP in my Camaro which is why I've ran STX also. My Camaro still needs about $4k invested to actually compete in ESP ($4k to pickup 3-5 seconds? OUCH!) I'm upgrading from the stock LT1 setup to the LS1 setup. That's legal in ESP.
I might end up buying HAWKS still too, just gotta wait and see how things go. I get amazing pricing on NAPA parts since they're a vendor of mine, so I couldn't beat it. Oops, just realized I got their PBR pads, $31 front list at $56, rear pads list $42 my cost $22, front rotors $16ea list $31, rear rotors list $20 my price $12ea It's good to have connections! |
Originally Posted by darbyfam
(Post 296929)
Miatas tend to have a less-than-optimum braking bias. Try using stock pads up front and something a little more aggressive in the back. I personally run Hawks in the back.
HIH |
There's a guy who autocrosses where I do (up in Marina) with a JRSC'ed 90. He runs Axxis Ultimates up front and Hawk Blues in the rear on 1.8 brakes and swears by it. He also took FTD at the last event.
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I autocrossed for about 4 years w/ Axxis Ultimates and really loved them on my 97 w/ ABS.
This year I switched to Hawk HP+ and think they're considerably better. They do make a bit more noise, but I feel a bit more confident. Plus, with the potential of track days looming in my future, I figured I'd buy a pad that could withstand track better than the Ultimates. I do have SS lines and run ATE Superblue. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 305487)
There's a guy who autocrosses where I do (up in Marina) with a JRSC'ed 90. He runs Axxis Ultimates up front and Hawk Blues in the rear on 1.8 brakes and swears by it. He also took FTD at the last event.
I have Satisfied Grand Sport carbon/ceramic pads on my wife's n/a 96 that I did like 5 track days on earlier in the year. Even this pad, which is deemed a street-performance pad suffered from VERY POOR bite through the first 2-3 braking zones until heated up. It became a very good pad with some heat in it. To the op, do not underestimate the poor cold stop performance of a real race pad. You WILL NOT gain enough temp in autocross situations to get a race pad up to sufficient temp, unless maybe dragging the ebrake to get an aggressive rear pad up to temp. +1 on the prop valve. Even with my wilwood valve on full rear brake, I still don't see a huge rear bias, but it definitely helps. If my car were a more dedicated SM2 car, I would go with a stock mazda front, probably hawk hp plus or black (or keep the carbotech xp8=dust) on the back, full rear prop, and drag ebrake to get heat in them. The carbotech xp8 all around setup I now have is surprisingly good street/track/autocross setup, but if only street/autocross, I would go with the above. Edit to add: I switch between ATE super blue and Motul 600 (amber) so I can tell when I get a complete bleed. Also, the stainless lines add some bling, but for autocross save your shekels unless your rubbers are shit. Buy more better tires, instead! |
Originally Posted by webby459
(Post 461718)
Edit to add: I switch between ATE super blue and Motul 600 (amber) so I can tell when I get a complete bleed. Also, the stainless lines add some bling, but for autocross save your shekels unless your rubbers are shit. Buy more better tires, instead! I forgot to mention, I swap colors too. ATE has an amber/gold fluid. Regarding the e-brake...I re-read Andy Hollis' Grassroots Motorsports write up yesterday. He mentioned they pulled up 2 clicks on the e-brake while driving up to start to heat the rear pads. |
Originally Posted by Project84
(Post 296438)
snip Also, does anyone know if there is an aluminum driveshaft sold for these things? Can I swipe one from a different make/model? Carbon Fiber > aluminum |
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