Brake booster problem??
 

After upgrading rubber to SS lines and pads in the front and rear , my brakes are spongier than ever. I have Greenstuff in the front and regular duralast in the rear. After bleeding the brakes many many times with little to no improvement I noticed when the car is stoped and i press the brakes the engines revs up about 500rpms so I figure the issues could be the brake booster since it works with vaccum, or Im just bleeding them wrong. The method I use is I open the bleeder screw, then ask the person helping to press the pedal let the liquid eject then close the valve and then depressing the pedal. Afterwards I inspected the brake booster any leaking liquid but there was none. I dont know where to go from here, what is your opinion??

pull the vacuum line off the master and see if you can blow through it towards the IM...

What then??

i meant booster.

I figured, but what after that??

post the results? there's a check valve in the short section of vacuum line bewteen the hard-line and booster. It's possible it's failed/failing.


As far as bleeding, you should ask the helper to pump the brakes 6-7-8-9 times and hold, then open the bleeder and close quickly once the flow stops. This should force any air out. Your method could simply be the issue [ i didn't read before].

Ok thanks for the tips :brain:, ill post the results later

if the booster wasn't working it would make your brakes rock hard, not sprongy.
also the brake booster has no liquid in it, at least it's not supposed to

Oh well turns out that there's a leak in the rear passanger caliper I guess thats what keeps me from getting the brakes to feel like I want to .... Here's a picture of the where the caliper leaks, is under the caliper.

Is this fixable or should I just get another caliper??

Attachment 204224

Attachment 204225

Help please I need to get my car on the road ASAP

that's where the e-brake pushes the piston right? must be a seal has gone....

if the caliper is cracked then you need a new one if its just a fitting you might get away with just swaping that.

I also saw a considerable amount of liquid come out from where the piston can be regualted I closed it as tight as possible and stopped. However the bottom was still leaking, I saw no seal where this that nail like thing I pointed out is.

i'd suggest a new caliper to play it safe.

Phil!!!!!! ......

I pm'd you back a price on a caliper like 2 hours ago.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Oh.... missed it o_o....I got carried away with the lotus crashing into SM thread ...can I pay at the e-mail you have on you sig??

Yes
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Ok so I replaced the caliper and the pedal is still spongy after hours of bleeding, seriously WTF!!!!!!! any advice Im thinking on taking the car to a shop to get it flushed or something. HELP PLEASE!!! school is starting and I need the car running

What's your bleeding method? it should be:

1. pump and hold
2. open valve
3. close valve
4. repeat

It usually helps to pump the pedal a few times before holding it. You also want to do the farthest caliper from the master cylinder first. So driver rear, passenger rear, passenger front, driver front.

That new (empty) caliper is going to take some time to up, what does the line look like when you open the valve, all fluid? Lots of bubbles? Only air?