That is not what I was asking.

My car now has 11.75" front rotors with 1.38" X4 pistons. and 11.44" rear rotors with 1.375" Sport caliper pistons but it still has a booster although it has a 1" Master cylinder.

The bias is great and tunable with this setup via the wilwood adjuster. But sometimes Heal toe and left foot braking the booster really jacks with brake feel and consistancy.

So in getting rid of the booster. it seems I would want to up the mechanical leverage ratio a bit to make up for the lack of boost? There are some options.

1) Go back to a 7/8" master cylinder.

2) Maybe use calipers with 1.5" pistons front and rear. Or maby 1.5" in the front and 4 piston 1.375" in the rear.

Designing the braking system from scratch I do have some options. I might even go to a dual master setup.

Bob

Just my "opinion" but I would think the 1" would be an improvement to mine, less pedal movement. I do not have issue with pedal pressure, but dont think less distace would be an issue.

Willwood tripple master is in my future, with luck this winter. I have good brakes, but with losing the E-Brake, one leak could be serious! The tripple (dual with clutch) would be safer, and more adjustable. I'm also in for less clutch pedal distance.

Bigger rotors are out for me till I can afford to change to 8 larger wheels.

The 1" Tandem wilwood master cylinder has front and rear circuits completely independent. I think if you lost a single brake line on a corner you wouldn’t lose all brakes like with the stock one.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...temno=260-8794

Bob

I am thinki8ng more along the lines of this

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320696716

I have been looking at those but not sure the ergonomics could be worked out right. If you look at where the stock location of the brake pedal is it is directly under the steering column. The pedal arm makes a jog to the right to get it there. I think to fit this thing in the brake pedal would end up about 3" further from the gas pedal and you would have to have your leg crossed under the column to operate the brake. It might work but it may not be too simple to get the positions right. .

Bob

Hi,
Would you consider making up one of these adapter plates for me?

Many Thanks,

:David

Try this


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F141028581231

Thanks stevos555,

That is the sort of thing, but the master cylinder mounts on mine are horizontal rather than vertical, and I want to keep the original Master cylinder set-up.

Regards,

David

I would drill new holes and plug honda vertical ones. Or you can contact Fab9 and they have the miata plate.

That did occur to me, but the plate needs to be at least 200mm thick to house the mounts already welded to the brake pedal bracket. Will look up Fab9.

Yeah - I erred on Fab9. Their kit is using wilwood master.

No problem. I grabbed the photos of the plate I need made up and posted on a few UK Mazda MX5 sites.

Thanks for responding anyway.

Since you are in the UK, check these guys out

https://www.compbrake.com/product/ma...ylinder-kit-b/

Looks like a proper bit of kit, including a bellcrank to get the pedal ratio right, balance bar, dual AP master cylinders etc.

Thanks, will do!!

Hi Guys, just to let you know I got one from someone who made one but never used it. So thanks for responding.

I still have a long way to go on my project, one small step at a time :x:https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc7f9de880.jpg

Home made adaptor plate and shortened pushrod