Comment on my alignment DD/Autox/Street Tires
 

The car is daily driven with some autox. I'm on RT-615 tires right now but going over to Ecsta XS next season 205/50/15 on a 7.5" or 8" wide wheel. I'm getting my car corner balanced and aligned soon, and I wanted to hear some input on what I'm planning. The car is on Stance coilovers 8k/6k, with stock sways, the engine is stock. I might take off the rear and/or add a bigger front bar later on.

Front
Ride Height: 12"
Camber: -2.0°
Toe: 0
Caster: 4°

Rear
Ride Height: 12.5"
Camber: -1.7°
Toe: 1/16 inch toe in total

I don't have any front toe out, but I plan on just turning the tie rods one full turn before autox to give 1/4 inch of toe out, and set it back to normal afterwards to save the tires.

So what do you guys think? Is the caster good? Do I need the the rear toe in? Ride heights good?

Thanks,
Mike

looks about what i was going to run, just some toe out in the front.

Good to know, how much toe out did you plan on running? I think I might just have the alignment guy dial in some toe out up front. I might get tired of turning the tie rods before and after each event.

It sucks. There is your comment.

what does taking the rear sway bar off achieve? wouldnt this give you more body roll? which would make your handling worse?

the alignment I plan on getting will be:

F
-2.5 camber
3.5-4° caster
1/16" toe out

R
-1.8 to -2.0 camber
1/16" toe in


I'm currently running 550/300 springs, no rear bar, a 7/8" front bar, and XSes. I have -1.7F and -1.9R, it would be great it I was a non-modded N/A.

Cool thanks, do you think I should keep the rake? Or do 12" all around?

get rid of the rake. its awful 100%

the rest of the settings look ok. maybe try zero toe in the rear, i really dont like rear toe personally

The idea behind the toe-in in the rear is to help remove oversteer when exiting a corner, this is a good thing when you're putting down +200rwtq...

I took off the rear bar reluctantly, after a huge amount of reading/input from many many people smarted than me. Even with my open diff and upping the boost to probably make ~220 at the rears, I can lay on very heavy power coming out of tight autocross and road course turns. That rear bar contributes to lifting the inside rear, and whether you have an open OR torsen, your corner exit will be ruined.

I am soon getting an FCM setup with 550/350s, and will be putting on a torsen over the winter. I will not be running a rear bar, just tuning my rear roll and overall balance by switching out rear springs.

I'm getting mine done next week to the spec miata standard of
-3.0 front
-2.5 rear
zero toe

Right on, when i bought my 94 it also had the sway bar missing. That was my guess as to what it did but i wasnt sure... I do have a stock 93 bar I'm not even sure will it fit? I thought about throwing it on there and seeing how it does.

Heh?

rif

Front
Camber: -1.8°
Toe: 0
Caster: 6°

Rear
Camber: -2.2°
Toe: 1/16 inch toe in total


I think I'm doing it wrong =X

I assume you are trying to say that you don't think you are doing it wrong, right? I don't, either, and it's close to what I run. I was commenting on pitcrewguy's 'zero toe.' Zero toe to spec miata guys means zero toe all around for less rolling resistance. A little toe in at the rear for stability. Zero to toe out in the front for turn-in. I got rid of toe out in the front because I was sick of driving off the road while receiving oral sex.

The rear bias camber settings will be hotly debated for eternity. FWIW, many fast guys run more front camber. I will rock what I have until next year, at which point I will TEST to find my correct camber settings. Then I will rape, and let all you fuckers know what I am rocking. I will belittle those that don't copy it.

remove the turbo and it'll be a great N/A setup for autoxing.

super > turbo and i hate autox, i run track days

okay...then remove the supercharger and it will be a great autoxing alignment ;P

i would removed the charger but never run autox, just can't stand it.

what is a good boosted nb alignment?