DIY alignment equipment
I read quite a few topics here and at m.net about doing an alignment myself, but it is not quite as simple as I thought it would be.
I was just about to buy http://wheelalignmenttools.com/produ...gnment-system/ tonight, but I decided to do more research. I envisioned being able to do this in my garage, but I read that my garage is most likely pretty uneven, so I need to figure out a solution for that. Most likely some thin tiles. I also don't know how I am supposed to get access to all the eccentrics to mess with them anyways. I have a Quickjack (that has been a total POS), but if it is on the jack, then there is no weight to get proper measurements. Putting a jack underneath each tire and getting it to compress isn't a solution for accurate measurements either, so what can I really do? The vids on that guys site just show the cars sitting on the ground, but that doesn't seem to be the reality of the situation. |
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6547593da.jpgHere's my homemade camber gauge. Works like a charm.
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One of the primary reasons I decided to make my own adjustable upper control arms was the ease of adjustment with the car on the ground.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...le-arms-90385/ Otherwise you are stuck with the adjust and check method..... Just takes time. |
Hey Bronson, I read you thread and your fabrication is pretty awesome, but I have zero fab skills and this thing is mostly a street car, so going down that route isn't feasible right now.
I get paid 3 times this month, so I have a lot of extra money, so I don't mind spending the money on that kit I linked in my original post, if it is worth it. It comes with a camber gauge and the dual tape measures for checking toe. It also has some angles on it that somehow let you measure caster, too. I can't say I understand that part of it. The one thing I don't think I can do with that kit is check the thrust angle? Although I don't really understand that or its effect. So all I need to do is get some tiles to even out my garage as much as possible, get that kit, then jack the car up and down as I make adjustments and check them? When I make an adjustment at the eccentric, do I leave it loose when I bring it down to check the measurement, and then jack it back up to torque it down to finalize it? |
No I wouldn't mess with something like those a arms for a street car. No you need to cinch down the eccentrics before you lower it or they'll move on you. On top of that you need to Jack the wheel up to close to ride height to keep from binding the bushings.
I'd look for a kit like QuickTrick Alignment 90004 Pro System Standard Wheel Alignment Kit - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors those toe plates can get affected by the tire bulge or the fenders get in the way. That kit had the arms for your tape measure so it works like the toe plates but attaches to the wheel. |
I'm confused on how this is easier than a $75 lifetime alignment that some shops offer
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If you can find a shop that will do more than swing the wrench until the box turns green on the screen then it's a good deal. Most shops barely check toe and won't do any more than get it into the factory alignment window which is a mile wide.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1396937)
I'm confused on how this is easier than a $75 lifetime alignment that some shops offer
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I bought an electronic angle gauge to start getting all the gear to do my own...I simply use the angle gauge as a check now and the more i learned and watch abou thow to do it at home got me to the stage where I simply could not be bothered with the Jack the car up, make an adjustment. lower the car, double check, re jack up the car, make another corrective adjustment and repeat until done.....the hours and / or frustration seems like a no brainer to take it to a shop.
I have been through this process a few times over the years and seems to work out like this.... I use one shop with a laser machine, explain the "race car" situation (race car or not, it helps to ensure at least a slight effort to get it right) and ask them if i can stand by while they do it. Usually the first time or two they can be casual but if you explain why and what needs doing and monitor them, they seem to come around. ....after a few times I find they will offer discount and eventually if its a quick check up they sometimes don't charge. After a time I will give them the opportunity to source tyres for me (if they can price match) and just generally establish a good working relationship. I make special effort to ensure the underbody area, arms, shock, adjuster etc. are very clean so that the job is as easy and "pleasant" as possible and I eventually get the feeling they "like" working on it as it is so clean, tidy and easy to do. Using the lift, the laser alignment and getting a print out each time is a big plus. If i had a workshop, access to a lift, decent camber plates, swivel platforms etc. I would definitely do it myself but without just seems like such a hassle.....each to their own though. |
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I mean if you take a plumb line and measure the top and bottom of your rim, you can get the camber angle. There's only so small of an adjustment you can make to the eccentric bolt (1/16th of a turn, 1/32nd?) before it becomes insignificant. Its a cam so i guess that if operator is ham fisted maybe you cant do fine adjustment but my impression is that so long as you are squarely in the zone you want, and the laser/machine is on you can get down to a very accurate level. However I doubt this is that big a deal for street. * I mention the subframe because it evened up my left to right a lot from the old subframe. |
Drive to Lake Oswego, Oregon. I work at a performance shop there with a great alignment machine. About $300 round trip in gas, and $200 in alignment later, and you'll have a great alignment you can enjoy on your trip back. Then don't worry about the alignment of your car. Raise it a little, lower it a little, but stay at the same basic ride height, and your alignment will behave. Focus on other shit, lots of straight roads in NM, no? Start building a 400hp drag Miata and forget about DIY alignments.
Too far? Find a place less than 1300 miles away and your price will really start to drop. I'm not being rude, you picked a shitty place to live if you care about alignments. Move, or be happy your steering wheel is straight. |
Your post is full of all kind of assumptions, but I didn't really lay out my intended use, either.
NM has more dirt roads than paved roads, so I am wanting to get that 3-inch FM lift kit and do some exploring. When I get the occasional days off that line up with a track day, I want to do those too. So I was searching for a solution to save me $100 every time I switch between those two modes. The going rate for an alignment here is $100. I have gotten a custom alignment in the past, but they declined to do that anymore after the guy I used quit. My alignment also shifted after every track day I have ever done, even when I told them to really torque down on the front lower control arm bolts. |
Sadly mine shift frequently too.
New bolts and cams do help for awhile but I inevitably hear a clunk every 2nd or 3rd race meeting. My assumption is that 1.4 - 1.6g cornering will do that.....I am considering the FM locking cams but they seem like a bit of a pain. The electronic gauge will probably be good for you in that case. You can buy just the gauge or with a wheel mount. I just use my own made up piece byt will probably get the proper wheel mount eventually. something like this... |
I linked to the stuff from that same company you just posted in my first post lol. Except that amazon price is insane. You can get the camber gauge and toe/caster plates for $200 directly from them.
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Sorry my quick look at the start and i thought they were just toe plates or something.....looks awesome for checking what you have but a regular pain in the ass if you want to change it. up down - adjust, up down- adjust...i cant imagine anything more frustrating and time consuming.
Unless you have a hoist, then your golden! |
I made a set of stands that have grease plates to let the tires move when chanigng aligment, once rhe aligment is done iput the scales on it and corner weigh it, use a digital angle gauge for camber and measurement berween the aligment exentricwasher mark on the subframe and the rim for rear toe.
withthis stands you dont have to raise the carhttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...408e855dfd.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0c5fabfc35.jpg every time you make a change. |
I made a set of stands that have grease plates to let the tires move when chanigng aligment, once rhe aligment is done iput the scales on it and corner weigh it, use a digital angle gauge for camber and measurement berween the aligment exentricwasher mark on the subframe and the rim for rear toe.
withthis stands you dont have to raise the carhttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...408e855dfd.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0c5fabfc35.jpg every time you make a change. |
I have absolutely no fabrication skills, otherwise those stands would be the perfect solution! I wish Raceramps weren't the most overpriced things in the entire world...
That wouldn't allow the wheels to move, though, so that doesn't fix it either. |
Now that I am not trying to post from my phone (It refreshes the page any time I try to upload a picture...)
This is my set up. Made from 2x10 and 2x12, along with decking screws, some hard board and grease for slip plates/leveling, pvc pipe, string, tape measure, and a Racer Parts Wholesale caster/camber gauge. Whole thing ended up being about $120 to set up. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bab7ccfe6b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0fff8643a6.jpg |
I have the SmartStrings rig that is similar to the PVC arrangement x_25 fabricated. It works pretty well but it takes about 5x time to set it up as it does to do the alignment adjustments. I did my own alignment had it checked my an actual expert and I was spot on.
Toe plates work nicely for minor adjustments but you have to be very careful to make the exact adjustments on both sides to avoid getting things off center thereby goofing up the thrust angle. That is the advantage of the string method. You do the alignment based on the true center of the car, assuming you get the strings right ;-) The various camber gauges all work on the same principal and seem to work well as long as they reference the rim and not the tire. I've been doing homebrew alignments on a C4 Corvette for the last few years. With the clamshell hood, I was able to access all the alignment adjusters with the car on the ground. With the Miata, I will need to fab some stands. |
How do you make adjustments to get your car level? I want to get into doing my own alignments, but my garage floor slopes to a drain in the center, making leveling the car difficult. I like Hamerly's setup, but I don't have a welder. (or very much fabrication skill for that matter)
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1398008)
Now that I am not trying to post from my phone (It refreshes the page any time I try to upload a picture...)
This is my set up. Made from 2x10 and 2x12, along with decking screws, some hard board and grease for slip plates/leveling, pvc pipe, string, tape measure, and a Racer Parts Wholesale caster/camber gauge. Whole thing ended up being about $120 to set up. |
Is there a local circle/small track? Ask those guys where they take their cars. Theres somone by me that has a full alignment rack in the barn, just above his cows...
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665;1396786I was just about to buy [url
http://wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/[/url] tonight, but I decided to do more research.
/reseach :) |
Originally Posted by Davezorz
(Post 1399318)
How do you make adjustments to get your car level? I want to get into doing my own alignments, but my garage floor slopes to a drain in the center, making leveling the car difficult. I like Hamerly's setup, but I don't have a welder. (or very much fabrication skill for that matter)
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this is a repost of an old thread I tried to start last fall. I was playing around with DIY alignments, and found an interesting shortcut:
I’ve been playing around with my alignment lately. As anyone who has fiddled with their alignment knows, you can use the Pythagorean theorem to calculate your toe or camber pretty easily by comparing your wheel to a straight reference. I’ve been using the string method and a carpenter's square as my references. I found it annoying to have to calculate the angle every time I made measurements, and it got me thinking: what is the optimal hypotenuse length (e.g., the diameter of your wheel, or length of your alignment stick) to get a 10:1 ratio between changes in distance between your reference & wheel, and changes to your alignment in degrees? It turns out the optimal length for an alignment stick is just about exactly 573mm, or 22 9/16”. With an alignment stick this length, you can move the top of your stick inboard 1mm from the reference, and it will lower your camber by .1°. Here’s where it gets funky: the OD’s of our more common wheel/tire combos are very close to this number: 195/50/15 on 15x7’s = 576mm 205/50/15 on 15x8 = 586mm 225/45/15 on 15x9 = 583mm All three of these will get you within a gnat’s ass of .1° change in alignment for every 1mm of movement at the outside edge of the tire. Now obviously this doesn’t take into consideration sidewall deflection, tire inflation, tire wear, or any number of other factors. I don’t know if this is common knowledge, but I thought it was worth sharing. |
I am now looking at those FM hub stands.
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Originally Posted by Davezorz
(Post 1399318)
How do you make adjustments to get your car level? I want to get into doing my own alignments, but my garage floor slopes to a drain in the center, making leveling the car difficult. I like Hamerly's setup, but I don't have a welder. (or very much fabrication skill for that matter)
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