Doing 1st Miata Clutch All wwas well until I got to the bell housing
 

Everything was easy until I got to the bell housing. I started with the 14mm on the starter, and it won't budge I have a 14mm on the other side, and I'm using huge breaker bar on the other side. Any suggestions I need to get this done before the weekend if possible.

Oh, I hadn't used any liquid wrench when I first tried, but I soaked all of the bolts at 6pm before I left for class today.

soak it then have at it. what other advice is there?

When I'm having trouble getting a nut off, I usually just ask my boyfriend to help :giggle:

Seriously though: 1. pull harder and 2. make sure you're going counter-clockwise.

1st. I hope your a girl, a girl with a 200plus hp miata, because thats just Rad!

I am spinning counter clock wise, but the universal unit adapter I'm using has confused me before.

Sounds like thats about it.

You might try putting the wrench on the transmission side and the breaker bar on the engine side, stick it out the wheel well, then put a cheater bar (jack handle usually works for me) on your breaker bar. If that fails, it's time for an impact wrench.

I'll give this a try in the morning, I'm a little worried though if this is the first one, I'm a bit screwed, I don't have a compressor or air tools. Although I can try the handle of my hi-lift jack like I did for the axle nuts.

Make sure you remove that coolant temp sensor, because if you don't when your engine rocks back, its gonna break. Then the part is 30 bucks from autozone.

What coolant temp sensor and what rocking back and forth?

A small hammer can create enough vibration sometimes to help a bolt come free. Some other times a bigger hammer and punch is needed. I have gotten loose lugs on semi wheels after hitting them with a sledge hammer a few times that a 1" impact could not budge before hitting them.

use anti-seize when you put stuff back together.

or get lazy and leave off 1 or two like i do.

Or use impact wrench and don't have any issues with bolts.

PB Blaster works miracles.

I saw a test once where they listed the ft-lbs of torque required to loosen a stuck bolt treated with different stuff like PB, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, and untreated.

Untreated was over 1000ft-lbs, while the treated ones were 25-50% of this.

Definitely drill holes in the transmission

You may want to just stop being a pussy

just an idea

I bought an electric impact for that sort of stuff.... its the best 50 bucks I ever spent

PB Blaster... /thread.

I stopped being a pussy and hit the gym.

Best 30/month I ever spent:giggle:

You should be able to get those bolts off with a 1/2 drive socket and driver...

I still recommend the impact... its a lot faster then moving a driver back and forth.

unless your 18psi of course

It sounds to me like you're balls may have dropped.

I'm putting car back together until I can buy an impact. The until now nothing on the car has actually beaten me. I'll give it a try again in a couple of weeks when I have time. I can't get enough space to really use either of my longer breaker bars, and I can't keep the socket flat enough to use a cheater on my 1/2" ratchet!

Will harbor freight's electric impact work, or should I be looking for something a little more substantial. On a positive note, I really fast at getting the spacer in the rear of the PPF out now!

I picked up a harbor freight electric impact wrench last weekend. It was $45 on sale and I think it was a wonderful investment. I am actually helping change a friends clutch tomorrow I will let you know how it works on his tranny bolts.

Very Cool! Thanks.

Pressure plate and flywheel as well. If the case bolts are this much of a pain, I would think they would be even worse.

Tranny bolts.[/QUOTE]

Pressure plate and flywheel are a no-brainer as you will have easy access with whatever method of breaker bar combination needed.

You will be happy having an impact. I had zero issues with an impact and the right combination of extensions and u-joint extensions.

If you don't have one, get the 1/2" IMPACT u-joint, not a regular socket u-joint. It's almost required and makes it an easy task. I also have a 12" and 6" extension. That combination will reach any of the bolts from the bottom.

fixed
and only one;)

I have the 1/2" u-joint, and 1/2" 6point impact sockets. I just thought I would be able to do it with a breaker bar. I was sorely mistaken.

I'll give it a try again once I have the impact. I also noticed pretty good leak, so I guess the rear main needs to be replaced anyway, so this has to be done.

The right air tools will get the job done in half the time of hand tools, but there is a healthy price of admission. I got the Earthquake 1/2 inch drive air wrench from Harbor Freight four years ago because the lesser ones weren't cutting it. It does quite well for a cheap wrench. I've used but never owned an electric wrench.

This is the second thread this week that makes me think ya'll are all weenies.

1/2 drive socket wrench plus a big box-end wrench. You put the box end over the end of the handle on the 1/2 drive and it acts like a handle extension, with an angle in it that helps to clear things. Apply the force in the exact correct direction though, it can slip off easily.

Or just slide a small pipe over the 1/2 and hit the bitch with a hammer.

That and put some fuckin shoulder and back into it.

Thats cause we don't get lots of practice giving hustler handjobs. He only comes to DC once in a blue moon and we all have to share him. :giggle:

Really I am just lazy from changing Braineacks clutch so many times that the impact wrench make the job easy. First time I did it was all breaker bar and man muscle.

After the last month of wrenching I have definitely decided I need air tools. It is no longer fun to spin a wrench...

Seriously, my grip strength has tripled since I started working nights and weekends at the airport men's room. And I'm finally starting to save up some money for my turbo build.:)

The whole time part of having the impact wrench is the best. I can and do use breaker bars, but turning those tranny bolts takes forever by hand.


So how much did you charge Larry Craig? Do you still sue the tapping feet to get your attention?:makeout:

A buddy with a compressor and air tools I haven't seen in a year responded to one of my post. I may get it taken care of on Sunday, if not next weekend.

wish i was there dude i would take care of it and then laugh at you for it over a beer GL man. shit isnt that hard its just alil awkward.

When I encounter a tight one, I usually use my cheater bar...

i usually use my cock

This is one of those times I'd welcome the laughter, but I may have it done this sunday. I put the car back together and went for a drive, it really needed a transmission fluid change, I had no idea just how bad it was. It feels so much better, but the clutch is going pretty darn fast.

Thanks to one of my buddies I haven't seen in a very long time, the clutch is done. I have no clue how anyone pulls this off without an impact. How long does it take for most six puck type clutches

BTW this is just the first 11 miles, but modulation is great, and engagement is even better, even just leaving the line.

Cool! Yeah, a properly setup puck clutch is not bad at all for modulation. Good to hear!

I have done maybe 10 tranny removals without air tools, you just plain get used to it and find the approaches that leave you a lot of room for the ratchet. Then your forearm gets really tired.