F1 Racing Clutch ?
 

F1 Racing Stage 2 Clutch Kit MX-5 Miata 94-05 [F1-53027R3-SS] - $151.00 : Gripforce, The Clutch & Brake Specialists



Has anyone ever heard of this clutch ?

plenty of posts about them if you search F1 or clutchnet or gripforce

I'm using it. I don't know what my power #'s are but I'm running 15-17 psi on my China 2860/71 (whatever it is) and it hasn't slipped up not once. It also has 10k plus miles on it.


Edit: Don't use the bearings it comes with. I used the pilot bearing from them and when I removed the engine for rebuild the bearing came out in pieces. Get them from the dealer.
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levnubhin, how do you like the feel over the stock clutch? Can you describe it - hard/soft chatter/smooth, low/high engagement point, amount of slippage available etc.?

The pedal is slightly harder than stock but it isn't gonna leave your leg sore. At low speeds and reverse there can be a lot of chatter if you don't get it just right. However I think that's the same with all 6 puck clutches. Engagement point is pretty high. Not sure what you mean about slippage. I can tell you that if you let off slowly in 1st or reverse without any gas the car will not stall, just roll.
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I'm also running the 6 puck on stock power for now. Same problem in reverse as Lev, but other than that - no complaints. I'm just hoping it'll hold at boost.

Thanks for the input on the F1 I think I'll try it. My Spec 1 is starting to slip at 10.25psi time to upgrade.

dont use f1 it wont last long at all and you will have to take the transmission out again. ask sleeper mx5 but then again he has 250whp when he had it. spend double the money and get an ACT clutch. i had mine last 5 years dd with 200whp and plenty of abuse now sleeper mx5 uses act and he loves the diffrence you may pay more but you wont be under the car so soon.

The F1 kit, I'll state for the 20th time at least, is an OEM [equivalent] PP coupled with a Clutchnet 6-puck disc.

With that said, the same goes for the Gripforce; which just happens to be powder coated a different color.

What's more, the kit may be describe as stage I or II or MXVCII but they are all the same.

Furthermore, there is a high probability the clutch will not disengage, as more than a few members here (including myself) had to find out the hard way.

Additionally, I drive a 6-puck disc and don't recommend it.

I ordered a stage 2, which is not a 6 puck, I know in the add it shows a 6 puck but thats for the 3 stage I called the Gripforce and they said the picture they used in the add was wrong (it was for the stage 3) and they would change it.
If it turns out to be junk I'll let you know, good thing this is not my daily driver.

+1 on not using the bearing it comes with. Mine blew up after ~100 miles, tore up the rear main seal, so oil went all over the disc. I ended up switching to a Spec clutch. I used all the hardware it came with and hasn't let me down in 20k miles or so.

On a side note, with an OEM clutch replacement before I had the turbo, that crap ebay clutch, and my spec clutch, I now have three alignment tools. No, I haven't thrown any away, I don't know why.

What I've never been able to understand is, how can an OEM equivalent pressure plate offer a significant increase in clamping pressure? Or is it all dependent on the friction disc?

In wet clutches at least, my experience has been that the pressure plates are the make or break of the clutch.

Thanks for the input, I bought a pilot bearing and throw out bearing from Mazda that seems to be the weak spot, I'am also having the flywheel resurfaced as per instructions.

friction coefficient vs. clamping force.

look in my recent clutch for sale thread:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33419/