Godspeed camber arms any good?
 

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of these adjustable arms? I'm concerned that if I get them and find out that they only add more positive camber than negative... Which would completely blow. I know the websites say + or - 3 degrees... But it's probably assuming with extremely lowered ride heights. I'm worried that these arms are intended for slammed ride heights where they help correct camber gain not add to it. Or that they're just so poorly engineered that they never made sure to design them right. Anyone know anybody who's run them before?!

It'd be a huge help if someone knew.

I have a 07 NC1 MZR 2.0L with 6speed manual PRHT.

my choice is either offset bushings or some kind of adjustable upper control arms. The offset bushings range between 90-300$ for a set for the front upper arms. But for that price range there's adjustable arms available.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...939edef53f.png


Backstory but not needed to read if you don't want to:
​​​​​​Im prepping for the upcoming autoX event in a month from now. My goal is to get a good -2.5°camber in the front and around -1.9° in the rear.
however I don't have the budget to get Meister R Coilovers yet. And the stock Bilstein plus dampers seem to be pretty decent for all season tires lol. As much as I want tires I don't have the money for wheels. So my goal is to just get an alignment before the event. But bcuz of stock ride height, I already can foresee that getting the camber goal in the front will be hard.

I don't have experience with offset bushings.

I would suggest getting the car aligned as close to the numbers you would like on the stock parts. Save the money you would have spent on a-arm toward the shocks and or springs you want. Those a-arms will change your class in autocross dramatically

My first try at aftermarket UCA’s didn’t go very well. Bought some like that - ones that did not have the cross-bracing. Was a few years ago so they may not have been that exact brand I tried. They flexed and permanently bent, ended up in the trash. Maybe with some normal street driving they would have been fine but doing AX or track days I would not recommend them unless you have a full money back guarantee that they won’t twist and bend. Went with these below and have given them many torture tests without failure. Getting about a season out of the ball joints. I get the adjustment out of them you are looking for as well. I have fresh pics of them installed because the new Xida’s just got put on last weekend. Good luck.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...31dac467d7.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1250c8d43.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...404e61739.jpeg

I didn't even think about that they're missing a cross brace. I knew something stood out that made them seem quite questionable aside from the other likelihood that the adjustment points are likely cheap grade steel that might snap lol like the studs that run through them seem they'd be the weak points. But the lack of the cross bar is probably a dead give away that they're too risky thanks yaw for the quick overnight responses.

I can't settle for what stock alignment will yield bcuz I just can't deal with having more negative camber in the rear than front.

I'm just ganna have to give the offset bushings a shot. I do know they're guaranteed to yield an increase of -5degrees. And that should be enough for me to get close to say:-1.8 camber front and -1.5 in the rear. That would be just perfect as a bare minimum needed to meet my preference 😉

Most likely ganna go with superpro offset bushings since they're $90 whereas the nicer ones start at about $280 which seems a bit high.

in other news have any of you seen that
Apparently Mazda even makes an offset metal insert bushing for the lower ball joint which is to add more negative camber? It seems like it must be a good option but doesn't seem to be widely known.
I would try these but I've never ordered from the only place that sells them so not risking it being a scammer or it not arriving in time. But they seem like a gem for their purpose and at a bargain.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3dfd197de2.png
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...136aa42b9a.png

That bushing is for the NC, not NA/NB. If it fitted the NA/NB, I'd expect them to say so.

Offset bushing, ELBJ FTW, but maybe your ruleset pushes you elsewhere.

You guys need to read the op’s first post a little more carefully

Haha all good 😂 I just ordered the superpro offsets from Goodwinracing and Ford motorcraft mtf and white line diff bushings =]
Appreciate the advice and decided not to put questionable arms on.

I can reply back in about 2 weeks to report how the alignment goes. Thankfully I work at a shop and we have an alignment machine

Haha :giggle::o I looked at the photo above. In my defence we don't see a lot of NC stuff here, more's the pity, so bring it on!

Hope the bushing get you close. My dd is a 2012 SE prht. It doubles as my rainy day autocross car and a few track nights a year. It has the meisterR clubrace coilover and progress sways. It’s a lot of fun. 2.5 front and 2.2 in the rear was no problem.

What's your ride height and How are the spring rates with the clubraces for a daily? Do you have rough roads where you live? I live in Baltimore so our streets are insanely bad in some areas where I have to go to work. But the stock PRHT shocks do a good job at comfort while being stiff enough for all seasons tires.

Although I know there's ganna be too much body roll when I go with a wider wheel and 200treadwear summer tires. I'm thinking the CRD's might be best for me but at the same time I feel like the clubraces might be more comfortable in some situations because of the extra shock travel.
I also like the front to rear spring rate ratios of the clubraces more than the close 6kg/5kg that the CRD's have.

Id like the CRD's more if they came with 6k/4k .. but then again I'm more used to NA/NB spring rates and perhaps the NC is better with it being closer to 1:1 front to rear. Won't know until I get to coilovers.

Don't mean to go too far off topic

If I remember correctly I’m at about 4 1/2 at the front pinch weld and 4 3/4 rear. I actually didn’t touch the fronts from the way they came out of the box. I added 2 turns on the rear to get the appropriate rake. I think the weight of the prht was the reason for this.
it is stiff riding. Roads here aren’t too bad. it’s about the same as an NB with 750# front springs. Shocks are ok. Not xidas but ok.