Has anyone driven both FM stg1 and FM Vmaxx suspensions?? - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-11-2012, 10:22 PM   #41
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even if the tires are nowhere near stock?

when I talked to FM they said not to go any lower than 30psi......
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:41 PM   #42
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Good question. Not sure how non-stock tire size affects mazdas recommendations. My guess is that it should still be closer to the sticker than the sidewall but don't know.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:41 PM   #43
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I think 32 is kinda high. I have to start at 26 cold to get 30 psi hot. Which down here any way, is the ideal temp for the tyres and tracks we run.

Road use may be different but I could see trying 28-30 just to see if the sharpness of the ride doesn't improve.....
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:43 PM   #44
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I would start at 28 psi, see how you like it, and go up or down based on preference. Please post a review when you get the FM parts.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:41 AM   #45
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Can only concur that 32psi is rather high.

The max pressure of 52psi on the tyre is just that, the absolute maximum pressure the tyre can take, it has zero bearing on what your car actually needs.

With Toyo T1R's which have a very soft sidewall I tend to run 30psi, but on other tyres I run 26-28.

32psi on my car makes it feel like I'm driving around with bands of concrete rather than rubber.

Try taking 4psi a corner out and see how it feels. Turn in will be less sharp as you'll get more sidewall flex so it is a compromise.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:42 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedCarmel View Post
I'm not understanding how raising the ride height is going to increase travel. All you're doing is raising the lower perch relative to the shock body, right? Your springs don't have any more travel that way.
It'll increase bump travel in the shock at the expense of droop. All assuming that the coils aren't binding. If they are binding then 18psi will have a very very rough ride!
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:18 AM   #47
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Which vmax do you have the regular or the extreme?
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:30 AM   #48
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he mentioned non-adjustable.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:31 AM   #49
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Regular ones
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:51 PM   #50
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Gotcha, nvm was willing to trade springs but we're running the same springs..
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:45 AM   #51
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Welp I aired down the tires today, from 32 all around to 28 all around.

Definitely helped......I'm retarded for not doing it before.

But the ride quality is just a wee bit off from what I want. I have high hopes for this new setup coming in the mail tomorrow, I hope I'm not sorely disappointed.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:05 AM   #52
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Keep us updated after you put some miles on them, because I think I am set on the FM stage II, so I would be very interested to get your opinion, especially since you have rode most suspensions.
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:15 AM   #53
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I have the vmaxx 1 and i find it riding soft for my preference. fm stage 2 or vmaxx 2?
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:16 PM   #54
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Ok next question:

I has FM alignment specs now:

Front
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Camber: 1.0 degrees negative
Toe-in: 1/16", 0.15 or 9 arcminutes total (1/32", 0.075 or 4.5 minutes per side)

Rear
Camber: 1.5 degrees negative
Toe-in: 1/16", 0.15 or 9 arcminutes total (1/32", 0.075 or 4.5 minutes per side)


The new suspension should raise both front and rear exactly .5"

1) Do I need to re-align the car? I know I should, but is it an absolute necessity?
2) How much worse would my handling get if I told them to zero out the camber and toe? I am considering this to improve fuel economy and possibly tire wear.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:38 PM   #55
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For a street car, keep the toe-in. With 0 toe I found the car too darty for my liking. You DEFINITELY need to have some negative camber.

If you are concerned just look up the factory alignment specs for the car, I'm sure it's not as extreme on camber, but I'm sure the toe is close if not spot on.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:48 PM   #56
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The factory specs leave a lot of varience on the table imo:

FRONT
Caster +4.43 +/- 0.75
Camber 0.4 +/- 0.75
Toe 1/8" +/- 1/8

REAR
Caster not applicable, there is no adjustment possible
Camber -0.72 +/- 0.5
Toe 1/8" +/- 1/8"

I hate the +/- crap. Its confusing and annoying, because when I go to the guy I want to tell him "do this" and hand him a piece of paper that says all the exact numbers on it. Not 1/8 +/- 1/8.

I was reading this:
Miata Alignment

As well as this:
Flyin' Miata : Technical information : Alignment numbers

And trying to find the best compromise for the street.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:13 PM   #57
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Alignment will make no difference with how the car handles over bumps, but I assume you know that.

The thing that matters for driving on the street is front toe. If you have too much toe out, your car will become darty and unstable at freeway speeds. If you dial back the front toe so that it's in the zero to negative range (as FM suggests), you'll have a much easier and less nervous car to drive.

Glad to hear airing down the tires helped ride quality!
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:35 PM   #58
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Dont do the FM alignment.

follow the 949 one.

Should have more front neg caster than rear; if that makes sense.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:43 PM   #59
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Quote:
SuperMiata DD Alignment
>=12" front ride height (measured hub center to fender)

>=4.5" front ride height measured at forward most straight section of pinch weld with 205/50/15 or 225/45/15 tires

Front camber: -2 (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: >4
Front total toe: 0

Rear camber : -1.8
Rear total toe: 0

I don't understand why so much negative camber on a street car?
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:51 PM   #60
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that's a lot?

I run -1.8 F/R as a DD.
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