Has anyone driven both FM stg1 and FM Vmaxx suspensions?? - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-15-2012, 05:12 PM   #61
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I'm not clear on why fm and 949 have such different recommendations. My best guess to date is that FMs recommendations are assuming you're running their swaybars. I have seen more recommendations out there for more negative camber in the front but I feel like FM must have their reasons.
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:53 PM   #62
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Having owned both...

I've discussed the topic of this thread a few times with random friends. It makes me sad to have sold the FM stage 1.

I wonder if I'm the only person on here with positive camber in the rear.
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:00 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
that's a lot?

I run -1.8 F/R as a DD.
well considering most OEM specs don't exceed -.5 I'd say -1.8 to -2.0 seems significantly more aggressive.
I'm sure they know what they're doing, but since both are very credible sources of specs I'm kinda torn here.
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I'm not clear on why fm and 949 have such different recommendations. My best guess to date is that FMs recommendations are assuming you're running their swaybars. I have seen more recommendations out there for more negative camber in the front but I feel like FM must have their reasons.
exactly. I wanna know those reasons.
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Having owned both...

I've discussed the topic of this thread a few times with random friends. It makes me sad to have sold the FM stage 1.

I wonder if I'm the only person on here with positive camber in the rear.
So you liked the stg1 over the vmaxx that much huh? That's good news for me lol. And why do you run positive camber? That sounds downright dangerous.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:59 PM   #64
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look what showed up today

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Has anyone driven both FM stg1 and FM Vmaxx suspensions??-img_00438.jpg  
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:33 PM   #65
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Look sweet, but they belong on the car, not on the floor.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:56 PM   #66
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Long bolt install method ftw
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:27 AM   #67
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Uck, knuckle bolt removal ftw. Much easier.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:27 AM   #68
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Long bolt was easy for me on two cars now......multiple times. Despite working around intercooler piping.

I am intrigued as to the reasoning behind the different alignment recommendations as well. My guess is that the extra rear camber is to cope with harder driving/ more body roll......Are the FM sways stiffer than the 949?...that might explain it.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:46 AM   #69
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Good setup! I had this suspension on my red NA but with FCM bump stops, which I would highly recommend. FCM bump stops will be softer then OEM bump stops - which you want for a daily driver. Try setting your shocks to softest settings all around and keep increasing it 1 click until they are just barely soft enough for your taste. I used to run 2 clicks front, 1 click rear (from softest).
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:32 AM   #70
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Quote:
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Uck, knuckle bolt removal ftw. Much easier.
Dont spread mechanical falsehoods on this site.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:37 AM   #71
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I've always done the long bolt method, hasn't failed me yet.
Going to look into ordering the FCM bump stops.
Will probably have everything installed by the end of the week.

I must mention again: with the tires down from 32psi to 28psi the car is so much nicer. Its literally right on the edge of my "comfortable ride" goal. So if these give me just a little more softness (and they def should) I'm pretty stoked because it should be perfect.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:15 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedCarmel View Post
I'm not clear on why fm and 949 have such different recommendations. My best guess to date is that FMs recommendations are assuming you're running their swaybars. I have seen more recommendations out there for more negative camber in the front but I feel like FM must have their reasons.
FM st1 spring rates with stock sways = ~54% FRC vs
949 spring rates + big front bar = 65% FRC
For reference, stock is 58-61% FRC

The lower front camber settings would tweak some of the oversteer out of the FM setup. At least, that was mentioned by some people.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:27 AM   #73
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Which makes me wonder about my previously asked question:

I followed FM's alignment specs when I installed the vmaxx.
Looks like they recommend the same alignment for the stg1.
Since I won't be touching any of the alignment bolts, but raising both front and back by exactly .5", will my previous alignment settings be very close or do I still NEED to re-align the car?
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:28 AM   #74
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it's be close enough, youll lose a TINY bit of camber.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:46 AM   #75
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Toe will be the largest change. Ask a shop if you get a discount of just wanting a "toe-and-go".
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:51 AM   #76
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The shop I go to hooks me up big time so I'm not worried about that, just don't have time to go there, etc, since it usually takes a while.

If I had slight toe-in before per fm specs I wonder if it will just zero out or actually go toe-out...
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:44 AM   #77
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Alright kids, so yesterday I got antsy in my pantsy, and the lift was not being used, so I went ahead and installed the new stuffs.

Very little driving impressions so far, just the drive home from the shop yesterday and the drive in to work this morning. And I only tried 1 setting so far, 1.

On setting 1 the car feels like it has BONE STOCK suspension. Tons of body roll, real floaty, definitely not meant for any performance driving. BUT, that's exactly what I need on my drives to work over terrible roads at 4AM.

On the way home I'll try setting 2, and so on and so forth.

So far so good.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:04 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
The shop I go to hooks me up big time so I'm not worried about that, just don't have time to go there, etc, since it usually takes a while.

If I had slight toe-in before per fm specs I wonder if it will just zero out or actually go toe-out...
I went with zero toe and really like it. Car is very responsive without being twitchy. Had a very slight toe in before, and while it made the car track a little better over bumps, it felt a little slow to respond.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:40 AM   #79
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Remember that damper valving should be matched to the spring rates. I think that 3 and maybe 4 is really where it matches the fm spring rates best. Enjoy the research but I think you will love it when you crank it up a bit more. Under damped cars aren't much fun or even as safe IMO.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:44 AM   #80
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Completely agree. I think ill probably end up 3f/2r for fun driving, and 2/1 or 1/1 for my crater filled commute.

Its fun experimenting when all it takes is a turn of a **** (oh boy that doens't sound right )
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