Hesitation, vibration, and noise after clutch install
 

I installed a flyinmiata stage 1 clutch kit and a resurfaced flywheel. Now I'm getting vibration, hesitation/bogging/possible clutch slippage, and a squeaking noise during idle and acceleration. It has a lot less power and only boosts to 7 psi where it used to boost to 11. During the install I replaced the throw out bearing, pilot bearing, main seals and gasket.

So far I adjusted the pedal adjustment, bled the slave cylinder a few times, added more grease to the slave cylinder rod, tightened all ground wires, and changed the spark plugs, to no avail.

During the install I re-calibrated my LC1. My AFR levels seem typical to preinstall. I checked my ECU maps and gauges and everything seemed fine. I tried adding to my master fuel trim and oddly enough 40% trim stopped the noise and slowed vibration a bit. Power also increased a bit and was able to boost to 9 psi. AFR was 12ish at idle and 9ish at WOT. There was still a bit of bogging and exhaust noise. Tomorrow I'll re-calibrate to see if it's way off and causing it to run super lean without me realizing.

When I get a chance again I intend on dropping the transmission to see if something was installed wrong or got hit out of whack during the install.

Any suggestions on what it could be? It's miserable to drive and I regret the install. It drove better with the pilot bearing shot.

Bump for ideas. I re-calibrated my LC1 today and AFR still looks good. I enriched everything without making it too rich.

9ish afr's in boost will make it run like shiite. Try leaning it out to 11.5-12 in boost and 15ish everywhere else.

I didn't leave it like that. I don't think the issue is in the map. It feels like I'm running on 3 cylinders. Is there an easy way to check for that?

Pull a wire off one at a time and see if the rpms change.

Flywheel same weight? Sometimes you can get a bunch of trailerhitching if you go too light on the flywheel and it will feel like it's missing. These transients can be hard to tune around believe me.

Too bad you weren't close to Detroit as we have fancy scopes, pressure transducers and vibration accelerometers to and we could probably drill down on your issue and at least help you sleep a little better.

Thanks flounder.

Superdve, I had the flywheel resurfaced only so I don't think that would be the issue.

Ok. I suggest checking for misfires although I'm not sure what you'd upset by merely swapping the clutch and parts. Look for any wires and obvious items but I figure you've already done that.

Ok, so I tried pulling plug wires to see if it changed idle and all wires lowered idle except for cylinder 3. I remember seeing a lot of fuel on the spark plug when I changed earlier this week. Does this indicate a definite blown cylinder 3, or could it also be a bad plug wire (already ordered) or bad coil? Also why would a clutch change blow a cylinder? Would I need a new motor or is one cylinder serviceable?

Today I switched plug wires 2 and 3 on the coil to see if idle would lower when I pulled the plug out of cylinder 3 and it didn't. Wouldn't this indicate that the coil pack is fine? I changed the plug wires and pulling cylinder 3 wire out still didn't lower cars idle? Could a leaking injector be causing this? I'm also getting a check engine code for an 02 sensor after cat, but I read this had no effect on idle and power.

The last thing I did was check compression to make sure the cylinder was in good condition. Cylinder 3 seemed decent.
1,2,3,4
Dry 180 168 168 180
wet 200 181 187 205

I'm sorry, fuel on the SPARK PLUG? Not fuel in the cylinder? Am I reading/understanding you correctly that when you pulled the plug boot, there was fuel on top of the spark plug pooling?

I meant in the cylinder around the plug thread.

Maybe just a fouled plug? You can get 4 new plugs for like 8 bucks, worth a shot.

Did the engine run fine before the clutch install?

Yea it did. I already replaced them this week. I'm getting codes p0106, p0507, p1102, p1123 and p1141. Except for the last one I think they are all related to installing the adaptronic and map sensor.

I would replace my coil pack but it doesn't seem to be throwing the code for that.

Did you install the map sensor and adaptronic at the same time as the clutch?

Those are maf, tps, iac, and o2s codes, no misfire codes. Are you getting spark on 3? I would guess you left something unplugged or damaged some wiring/grounds upon install of the trans?

I don't like the #'s on cylinders 2&3, but 168psi is not low enough to cause incomplete combustion and a dead miss like your seeing. How about a leaky injector? What is your wideband reading at idle?

No i installed them a few years ago. I am going to check injector rings now but i have had a leak before without bogging and power loss.

Not leaking air, leaking like the injector is stuck open and fuel is dripping constantly.

I checked the o ring of the injectors and all seemed fine.
But what confused me is after re-installing everything. I pulled the plug wires during idle again this time cylinder 4 didn't lower idle instead of cylinder 3. I didn't make a point to put the injectors back to the same cylinder it was in before. Now I am wondering if the one injector is bad and I put it back in cylinder 4.

I did an injector test(not really sure how to read it) in wari. But it looks like they're working normal.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...tor%20test.jpg

I don't know what the hell is going on.

If the misfire switched cylinders then you found your problem. :party:

Just an update for people searching for solutions in the future: It did turn out to be the injector. Deatschwerks said it was broken internally and I had to buy another. Installed the new one and everything is back to normal.

Thanks for all your help!