I made a poor clutch decision and now I don't know the torque value
 

So I have been running a Competition Clutch Stage 4 and it's been fine aside from chattering at low speeds. It's a sprung 4 puck that just seems to hit perfect resonance when slowing in gear which causes bucking every so often. That's beside the point.

I pulled the clutch and flywheel to take to machine shop to balance with the new rotating assembly. For whatever reason, when contemplating power goals, I decided to look up the torque rating for the clutch.

Competition Clutch's, henceforth CC, website states 225 wheel torque when looking through the catalog (p/n 10045-1620), yet ALL vendors state a 250% increase in torque capacity for all 1.8L models. 225 torque seems what-the-fuck low for a ceramic pucked clutch. An arbitrary percentage increase seems like marketing ploy. I had already dynoed 273 torque before my motor blew so I don't know what to think about CC's published numbers.


I really need to delegate fundage to getting my car back and would rather not have to buy a new clutch since this has but 6000 miles on it. Then again, I'd hate to revisit this if it becomes a weak point and I'm pretty much planning on a EFR6758 for the next build with VVT.



IF i assume the highest torque given by a stock miata from the blanket 94-05 range is 125 ft-lb and figure a 250% increase in capacity....

125*(1+2.5)= 437.5 ft-lb.

Numbers conflict a little, almost by a factor of 2. I want to believe the vendors advertising this clutch (so I don't have to buy a new one), but realistically, I have no clue what this clutch is rated for as numbers seem bogus from the company directly.

Anyone know of or had experience with Competition Clutch kits?

437 is not 250% higher than 125.

125x2.5=312.5

huh. I can't math?

If something experiences an increase of 100%, then it's total amount in reference to the original value is effectively doubled. 100% increase of 100apples is 200 apples.

((New torque - old toque) / old torque)*100 = percent change?

therefore if old torgue is 125 and percent change is 250.... new torque isn't 437.5?

even at 312.5 as advertised by vendors, what to make of the manufacturers 225?

Should I just run it and give no fucks?

torque ratings are pretty much a good guess anyway. its not like it will hold no questions asked at 224 but be toast at 226

so......... run it and hope for best?

I feel like you're just looking for validation hehe

Run it. Clutch swap on a miata really isn't hard anyways:D

Damn right! I'm still in mourning. I thought I did everything right last time, so now my confidence is shook.

Honestly I can't blame you man. You really did do everything right.
Have you called any of these places selling them? Perhaps someone that actually knows these clutches can give you some actually helpful info?

I have seen some vendors sell clutches with the torque rating at the wheels... that would make the two different specs make sense together if one is at the wheels and the other is at the flywheel.

Keith

Right, its its 250% more, then its stock * 2.5 + stock. If it was just 250% of stock holding then it would only be stock * 2.5. Either way I'd run it. If the predal effort is higher than stock and its a 4 puck ceramic I have a hard time believing its not going to be good for at least enough torque to break 6 speeds.

Building a VW clutch torque measuring tool- Hot VWs Magazine

I win this thread

Buy FM or 949 clutch, never have to worry again.

^^ This

MY fairly new FM lvl2 clutch is a DREAMBOAT on FANTASY ISLAND, all day. :party:

Obviously if i were to do this from scratch again and money being no object I'd suppose I could buy all the twin disks and never look back. That being said if I were to do this ever again, I wouldn't. I'd just put a v8 in the car.

If my current, perfectly usable, clutch still works for my goal, then I'd rather spend the money on headwork for the oversized valves.

Unfortunately, I lack disposable income so weighing my options seems more reasonable than "just get X and don't look back."

I appreciate the input. I know what to get if/when this clutch roasts

Don't forget you're suggesting an FM1 ($350), FM2 ($400), or a twin disc ($1030).

The orange single disc clutches no longer exist, but are apparently in the works. Just a future FYI.

Mine is sitting in my shop right now... anybody need a low mileage lightly used ACT HD?

Keith

I replaced my ACT HDSS with a FM2 clutch what back in 2010. I honestly have no problems with the ACT clutches, and I think they are good. I just see the FM clutches as being a bit cheaper and holding more torque then the ACT equivalent.