Keisler Automation Drop Spindle kit, worth it?
#1
Keisler Automation Drop Spindle kit, worth it?
So I know there was a thread on these, but I figured necroposting wouldn't do much good.
I was looking into buying the kit sold here: Keisler Automation drop spindles MAZDA - MiataRoadster - High-performance customer service...and parts for Roadsters but wanted some feedback on them before dropping some cash on them. The original post was more about the interest and potential benefits the kit brings, but no one really posted about buying the kit and installing it. I've heard a few negative things about them, like certain shock setups hitting, requiring new brake setups, no ABS and was wondering if anyone has actually installed them, My setup right now is stock, but the end goal is to have XIDA coilovers, possibly the FM big brake kit, tubular control arms, and maybe modified knuckles.
Anyone here have these that can give feedback on them, positive or negative? Thanks.
I was looking into buying the kit sold here: Keisler Automation drop spindles MAZDA - MiataRoadster - High-performance customer service...and parts for Roadsters but wanted some feedback on them before dropping some cash on them. The original post was more about the interest and potential benefits the kit brings, but no one really posted about buying the kit and installing it. I've heard a few negative things about them, like certain shock setups hitting, requiring new brake setups, no ABS and was wondering if anyone has actually installed them, My setup right now is stock, but the end goal is to have XIDA coilovers, possibly the FM big brake kit, tubular control arms, and maybe modified knuckles.
Anyone here have these that can give feedback on them, positive or negative? Thanks.
#3
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https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...pindles-76700/
I've seen them being made, very high quality product and lots of pros. However, this should not be your first mod to consider for suspension, heh.
I've seen them being made, very high quality product and lots of pros. However, this should not be your first mod to consider for suspension, heh.
#6
Yeah if I remember right to take full advantage of the spindles and get more droop you need longer shocks, not to mention MR2 hubs for the fronts.
The main concern with this whole thing is the cost, but the benefits are great. Just remember the cost\benefit analysis on this. You're probably looking at ~5grand for shocks/spindles/bearings/brake kit.
The main concern with this whole thing is the cost, but the benefits are great. Just remember the cost\benefit analysis on this. You're probably looking at ~5grand for shocks/spindles/bearings/brake kit.
#8
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I don't think many people in the states have tried these, but I know there's a dozen or more across the pond using them successfully. Unsure on the application, though.
#10
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Correct. It's not a developed solution I don't believe, but it works on paper and seems to work well enough in the real world too. As others have said, you'd ideally want a custom built shock for it. There's always the option to run spacers with a current OTS option while the custom shocks are being developed.
#11
Very interesting. I suppose that it isn't really that strange. I wonder how much fabrication would be required to install something like that..
I just found this post on Club Roadster, seems to have a bit of info as well:
I just found this post on Club Roadster, seems to have a bit of info as well:
* Front calipers didn't fit. I run AP radial mount calipers with custom brackets. Unfortunately, the Keislers run a thicker brake bracket on the spindle than OEM. Unless your caliper or mount attaches to the rotor side of the spindle, you will need to modify your mou t to fit. In our case, we needed to make new brackets offset 3mm.
* Front rotors didn't fit on the MR2 hubs. The actual hub itself is around 1.5mm-2mm larger I. Diameter than a Miata hub. We had enough material on the inside of our rotor hat to machine them larger to fit, but it was a PITA nonetheless. We also had to skim a tiny amount out of the hub centre, which is slightly larger than 54.1mm (at least on the Timken hubs we used).
* Ball joint nuts were a PITA to fit as the clearances are tiny. Also makes installing cotter/split pins difficult, especially in the uppers.
* Even at max toe in, we may have trouble eliminating toe out. It will be close - hard to tell at this stage as we haven't aligned it properly.
* Rear spindles reduce the clearance between the axle and the shock. My Xidas foul the axles. I am running 105mm pinch weld height at rear and 20mm top hat spacers. My bottom spring perch rubs on the axle on both sides. I will either have to modify the bottom Xida mount to space it rearward, or grind a smidge off the lower spring perch.
* I couldn't get my rear wheels on after fitting the spindles. Seems they foul the lower control arm bushes and washers (wheels are 6ul 15x10). I had to grind the bottom of the washers off the outer lower control arm, and also had to file off some of the polyurethane of the Energy bushes. Even so, I will have to take care it doesn't knock off stick-on wheel weights on the inside of the wheels. Not sure yet whether my 15x8 Konigs (wet tires) will fit.
Still yet to test, but safe to say, these things are a real pain to fit and I hope the gains are worth it.
* Front rotors didn't fit on the MR2 hubs. The actual hub itself is around 1.5mm-2mm larger I. Diameter than a Miata hub. We had enough material on the inside of our rotor hat to machine them larger to fit, but it was a PITA nonetheless. We also had to skim a tiny amount out of the hub centre, which is slightly larger than 54.1mm (at least on the Timken hubs we used).
* Ball joint nuts were a PITA to fit as the clearances are tiny. Also makes installing cotter/split pins difficult, especially in the uppers.
* Even at max toe in, we may have trouble eliminating toe out. It will be close - hard to tell at this stage as we haven't aligned it properly.
* Rear spindles reduce the clearance between the axle and the shock. My Xidas foul the axles. I am running 105mm pinch weld height at rear and 20mm top hat spacers. My bottom spring perch rubs on the axle on both sides. I will either have to modify the bottom Xida mount to space it rearward, or grind a smidge off the lower spring perch.
* I couldn't get my rear wheels on after fitting the spindles. Seems they foul the lower control arm bushes and washers (wheels are 6ul 15x10). I had to grind the bottom of the washers off the outer lower control arm, and also had to file off some of the polyurethane of the Energy bushes. Even so, I will have to take care it doesn't knock off stick-on wheel weights on the inside of the wheels. Not sure yet whether my 15x8 Konigs (wet tires) will fit.
Still yet to test, but safe to say, these things are a real pain to fit and I hope the gains are worth it.
#14
Hello all,
First off, I want to thank the moderators for giving me the opportunity to post on behalf of my retailer, Bill Wilner of Miataroadster.com. I would like to become a positive attribute to the forum by answering any questions in regards to my product line and also share any information regarding chassis, steering, and suspension dynamics.
I'm a little late to this post, but I have attached a link regarding information and precautions for the drop spindles-
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_l...5pd2k0ZWM/view
This link is constantly updated and provides accurate information to the Gen1 and now, Gen2 drop spindles. Many of the fitment hiccups of the Gen1 spindles have been dealt with after more then 2 years of testing all over the globe.
Before I get into "custom shocks", please remember that the NA/NB chassis have a .7/1 motion ratio front and rear. This means for every 1" the wheel actuates up and down, the shock moves .7". To compensate for the 1.5" drop in the spindle, the shock would need to be an extra 1.05" in length.
We offer 1" thick shock spacers that will compensate for the drop in the spindle while leaving the ride height roughly .07" lower then before the spindle and spacer install. This method does not change shock travel.
Some aftermarket shocks may have an interference issue with the spring perch and the rear axle shafts. A quick fix for a moderate level fabricator is to ditch the shock spacers in the rear and fabricate a pair of lower shock brackets with the mounting hole raised one inch. With a angle/cut off grinder, drill press, welder, and a little patience, one could make quick work of said brackets. The OEM brackets can be completely done away with, or the new brackets can extend off of the OEMs with the right design. All though I don't offer these brackets as a product, I am always happy to assist customers in the simple design of these brackets or even fabricate the brackets onto control arms shipped in by customers.
This method may not be the "bolt on" approach that many are looking for, but if it saves a couple grand in custom shocks, I feel it is worth half a days effort at most.
Our aluminum lower control arms that are in the works will utilize bolt on shock brackets front and rear. We will have the option for extended brackets for our customers that plan on coupling the arms to drop spindles.
Any questions, please feel free to ask.
First off, I want to thank the moderators for giving me the opportunity to post on behalf of my retailer, Bill Wilner of Miataroadster.com. I would like to become a positive attribute to the forum by answering any questions in regards to my product line and also share any information regarding chassis, steering, and suspension dynamics.
I'm a little late to this post, but I have attached a link regarding information and precautions for the drop spindles-
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_l...5pd2k0ZWM/view
This link is constantly updated and provides accurate information to the Gen1 and now, Gen2 drop spindles. Many of the fitment hiccups of the Gen1 spindles have been dealt with after more then 2 years of testing all over the globe.
Before I get into "custom shocks", please remember that the NA/NB chassis have a .7/1 motion ratio front and rear. This means for every 1" the wheel actuates up and down, the shock moves .7". To compensate for the 1.5" drop in the spindle, the shock would need to be an extra 1.05" in length.
We offer 1" thick shock spacers that will compensate for the drop in the spindle while leaving the ride height roughly .07" lower then before the spindle and spacer install. This method does not change shock travel.
Some aftermarket shocks may have an interference issue with the spring perch and the rear axle shafts. A quick fix for a moderate level fabricator is to ditch the shock spacers in the rear and fabricate a pair of lower shock brackets with the mounting hole raised one inch. With a angle/cut off grinder, drill press, welder, and a little patience, one could make quick work of said brackets. The OEM brackets can be completely done away with, or the new brackets can extend off of the OEMs with the right design. All though I don't offer these brackets as a product, I am always happy to assist customers in the simple design of these brackets or even fabricate the brackets onto control arms shipped in by customers.
This method may not be the "bolt on" approach that many are looking for, but if it saves a couple grand in custom shocks, I feel it is worth half a days effort at most.
Our aluminum lower control arms that are in the works will utilize bolt on shock brackets front and rear. We will have the option for extended brackets for our customers that plan on coupling the arms to drop spindles.
Any questions, please feel free to ask.
#15
This is an old thread but mis-info lives forever if not corrected.
#16
Just for the record, I have Zossy's setup for sale (with Xidas) ATM, less the AP fronts (though they might be available too). All nicely debugged as per above, plus a bit more, although he hadn't got around to connecting up the ABS. That car was crazy fast, but I know they put a lot of effort into getting it that way.
Sadly I didn't get to install it on my car before I changed direction, hence the sale.
I haven't put it up here because of freight costs, but if anyone is interested in it I would be prepared to investigate the costs of shipping.
Sadly I didn't get to install it on my car before I changed direction, hence the sale.
I haven't put it up here because of freight costs, but if anyone is interested in it I would be prepared to investigate the costs of shipping.
#17
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Groan. They are EXACTLY what he should buy first. If the man wants the best suspension set up for a NA/NB he needs to start with the spindles. Everything else will be throw away if he does the spindles later. I hope you've all seen what 949 is doing now that these have matured.
This is an old thread but mis-info lives forever if not corrected.
This is an old thread but mis-info lives forever if not corrected.
The guy you quote as spouting "mis-information" is arguably one of the most technically competent individuals on this forum. He also uses Keisler spindles on his own car. Proceed at your own peril on that front.
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And you really don't math well for someone who claims to be a suspension guru.