Ground Control Install
#1
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Ground Control Install
I'll start off by saying that the previous owner made some poor choices and then suspension can't be "put back the way I found it". I'm trying to make sure I'm not missing something on the install of Koni and Ground Controls on a 1990. See the pic below and tell me if it looks like something is missing. Seems like there is a washer or a spacer or something not there, but maybe that's just NBs.
Thanks,
Noah.
Thanks,
Noah.
#4
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I just use a fender washer (large outer diameter) from the hardware store at whatever size barely fits over the threaded portion of the shock shaft. The fender washer spreads the load out over the underside top hat bushing. Track tested, no problems. FWIW Tein recommended the same thing when I called them about it.
I am not seeing any top hat bushings anywhere?
I am not seeing any top hat bushings anywhere?
#6
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Noah- Maybe I am confused but the top mount that you have in your picture is for a NA not an NB. The picture that pitlab posted is for the NB. Yes there will be a washer on the top of the bushing then the nut. There should also be a "washer" or what ever they call it below the mount that is on the shock it is quite thick. It sort of looks like your shock has one on there already.
Have a great day,
Jared
Have a great day,
Jared
#8
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Apologies if this is an ignorant question...
Said washer, is that the semi opaque white disc that's about 1cm thick in your picture, at the top of the shock body?
If so what's it for? just looks like an effective way of reducing shock travel to me, seeing as the 5 has barely any it doesn't seem like a great idea?
Said washer, is that the semi opaque white disc that's about 1cm thick in your picture, at the top of the shock body?
If so what's it for? just looks like an effective way of reducing shock travel to me, seeing as the 5 has barely any it doesn't seem like a great idea?
#9
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It's a shock spacer, Shaikh @ FCM, found it import due to the design of the koni shock. At full compression there's about 15mm of rod still protruding from the shock body, this will prevent the rod from bottoming out inside the body before the the shock hits the bump.
The above picture, showing a 90-97 rear Koni Sport at full compression, is the reason why I include bump spacers for Konis. Due to the construction of the Koni, there is a 16mm gap in the front and 20mm gap in the rear between the shock body and the 'shelf' where the bump stop sits. The FCM bump stops both compress to about 10.5mm with full load. So a spacer of some sort is needed. Ideally the material is firm enough to resist a large compressive load but also soft enough to not scratch the shaft. That material is UHMW-PE or ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene, the material that cutting boards are made of (among many industrial uses where low-friction and high-compressive strength are needed).
Okay, so there's the explanation for 'why spacers'? There is nothing wrong with using Koni shocks with my kit - I have designed all my FCM kits to give the maximum SAFE amount of travel, and that's what you get.
Note that the factory NA bump stops are so long, even when fully compressed, that there is never a chance to bottom the Koni out - HOWEVER if you shorten the bump stops by cutting donuts off, you run the risk of blowing a shock out - there's no need to 'guess' about how much bump stop you need. My kits have all that engineered into it them.
The above picture, showing a 90-97 rear Koni Sport at full compression, is the reason why I include bump spacers for Konis. Due to the construction of the Koni, there is a 16mm gap in the front and 20mm gap in the rear between the shock body and the 'shelf' where the bump stop sits. The FCM bump stops both compress to about 10.5mm with full load. So a spacer of some sort is needed. Ideally the material is firm enough to resist a large compressive load but also soft enough to not scratch the shaft. That material is UHMW-PE or ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene, the material that cutting boards are made of (among many industrial uses where low-friction and high-compressive strength are needed).
Okay, so there's the explanation for 'why spacers'? There is nothing wrong with using Koni shocks with my kit - I have designed all my FCM kits to give the maximum SAFE amount of travel, and that's what you get.
Note that the factory NA bump stops are so long, even when fully compressed, that there is never a chance to bottom the Koni out - HOWEVER if you shorten the bump stops by cutting donuts off, you run the risk of blowing a shock out - there's no need to 'guess' about how much bump stop you need. My kits have all that engineered into it them.
#13
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400/250 is win. that's what I'm running now. GC rates are 375/250. you has boost, you want a little more FRC. DO ITTTTTTTTT, shipping to you will only be $20 flat rate box, plus $40 for the springs.
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