A little help please
 

Iv pieced together a 90 miata with a 94 torsen rear and automatic 96 axles, with a 94 manual trans driveshaft but for some reason the driveshaft looks to short to reach from the diff to the 90 manual trans i thought all i needed for the swap was a driveshaft, axles, and diff somebody please provide a little guidence.:crx:

You are correct in that all you need is the differential, axles, and driveshaft on any manual NA. Are you sure of what you got?

Is it possible to mount the rear subframe backwards cause it was removed and reinstalled?

I would doubt it, but you do need two bolts through the transmission and two thru the diff. It probably could be hung with only one too far back on the trans or with only one too far forward on the diff.

im going to check that tomorrow thanks ill takes some pictures of what it looks like while im underneath.

and????????

Op, please realize you're talking about the subframe and older guy is now talking about the power plant frame.

ok I know this is really old but I went and got a new axle thinking it was the problem but it still is popping out not far but far enough. The car would just grind when I try to move it but once i pop it back in the car moves fine for a couple feet then pops out again. But the ppf has all four bolts in it. Should i tear down the diff I purchased it off of someone on this forum?

The axle is poping out? Out of what?

If you have the drive shaft in the back of the trans, the slip yolk will be in the tranny a few inches. That shouldn't pop out.

The axles are bolted through the hub, no pop out there.

If the axles are bolted to the hubs they cannot pop out of the diff housing.

So what is the actual problem here? Did you buy a diff from a MSM maybe? They need bigger axles.
I'm not sure if the axles from an automatic are different enough to cause a problem.

The driveshaft is good now I figured that out now the left axle keeps popping out while I'm driving. It makes a really bad grinding but when I pop it back in it works fine for a couple of feet then pops out again? I have no idea what it could be.

What do you axle seals look like? Mazda put a metal lip on the stub axle as far back as '94 I think. Sometime recently, the axle seal was was given the metal lip, and if you have a new seal with an original axle (I don't know why anyone would buy a brand new one...) you'll have a metal lip on both pieces and they're hit before the clip locks it in.

That being said, even without it clipped in, the hub should hold the axle in far enough. There's a good 2" of spline engagement, and you would have you have SERIOUS issues if a full assembled rear suspension setup is pulling it out with a few feet of driving.

Please take some pictures for us.

Is the CV joint completely together?

I mean fully assembled.

Yes its a complete piece.

Wow that's a fairly useless video.

It appears that you have everything right. Double check you have the snap ring on the end of the axle, and then with those one piece axles you actually have you use a block of wood on the hub. Disconnect the upper outer control arm bolt that goes through the hub. Have someone push on the hub to get rid of the slack, then hammer on the hub with a piece of wood as a buffer. This is how Mobius and I did his recently.

It has the snap ring what do you think the slack is, it just not far enough in?

Yeah that's not snapped in at all. Push it in by hand, and hammer it in. I think your hold problem is that it's just not snapped in.

Since you said it made grinding noises, be sure to at least change the fluid if not flush with mineral spirits or the like and fluid change. Could be some metal in there.

Finally put the stock vlsd back in and tore down the torsen. Besides the fact that it was filled with metal shavings it also had 3 cracks in the splines where the left axle goes in I assume that was the problem ill try to put pictures up maybe someone could tell me if it can be repaired. I bought it off a member here about a year ago, probably didnt even know.