I was asked to move this from my build into it's own section. This is going to take me a while to get all in the log. I have most written, but haven't gathered all the pictures etc. yet. Since I've started to lose items, thought it best to start filling this all out and I'll let you know if it's finished or not... (& to those of you I said I would have this completed sooner...I apologize for that.

General Info & Wheel Speed Sensors and Tone Rings - Done


MK60E5 ABS

First, thanks to both Wingman & Bronson for their help. I really appreciate both of them taking time to help me out. I’m spending a bit more time writing all of this up, because besides Wingman’s write up, which was bleeding edge being the very first Miata, there really isn’t a single great resource for the MK60E5. When I installed mine, it was still a newer install. I’m sure there are still discoveries to be had with this system / better ways of doing things to be found. (I have noted any that I have seen since installing.)


General Info:

The MK60E5 that comes out of the E9X BMWs. Besides being one of the best ABS systems (that isn't fully motorsports) you can get, they can also be set up as a standalone system. Making them an ideal ABS upgrade for grassroots motorsports. You can find them in all of the 6 cylinder (and 8 cylinder) 3 series models (2006 – 2013) that do not have all wheel drive. The 4 cylinder, and the all-wheel drive use different ABS systems. You don’t necessarily need the M3 version of the ABS system. It’s believed that the M3 version should have a little better version of software on it (I don’t know if anyone has actually tested this), but the base model E9X BMWs work extremely well, AND you can flash the M3 software onto any of the MK60E5 if you wish, so this becomes a moot point.

Why MK60E5 vs the MK60?

People have been putting the MK60 ABS in cars for a while now. It’s a bit older compared to the MK60E5, but it’s still a great standalone system. Biggest issue is that the MK60 is starting to get expensive since everyone has been upgrading to it for years and you need to use the 03-06 M3 version of the control modules, they are starting to become harder to find and expensive. The MK60E5 is cheap. I installed mine for under $500 and that’s for EVERYTHING, (even including stuff I had lying around in your garage, like paint or scrap metal.) I also bought a lot of new parts and ran all new wiring. I would say you could pretty easily install for $250 if you were budget conscious about it. Or in Track Day speak…This pays for itself after the very first flat spotted tire.

Extra Reading info:

• Wingman has a write up with really good info in it on his build thread
• Facebook has an MK60 / MK60E5 page. It semi sucks looking for information, but there is a wealth of information there.
• I also did other google searches and found some other write ups

Getting the ABS up and running isn’t hard, but it is very time consuming. I’m going to break this down into a few different sections.

• Wheel Speed Sensors & Tone Rings
• The ABS Pump & Yaw Sensor
• Plumbing
• Wiring
• Software & Bleeding

Wheel Speed Sensors & Tone Rings

Tone Rings:

This is the hardest part of using the MK60E5 / what makes people not want to use the MK60E5. You can’t use the stock Miata tone rings. Reason being is that the MK60E5 uses Magneto-Resistance (MR) tone rings, and to date, nobody has found an MR Tone ring that fits out of the box. You can actually get by with using the stock Miata tone rings in the rear with some coding (I did not do this), but the front need to be MR rings.

NOTE: There is now a guy who makes and sells a “black box” for $350 that will allow you to use your old skool tone rings, vs the MR ones. (Happy Cactus Garage) I didn’t go this route (it wasn’t available at the time I started.) Along with allowing you to use your stock tone rings, it also simplifies a few items with the install. (ABS signal light, Brake light switch wiring simplification, etc.). If you are updating the stock Miata ABS (or some other vehicle with an older ABS), I’d definitely look into this, since you save the cost in tone rings & sensors, making that $350 cheaper, and definitely will save you some time.

Tone Rings These come from a 2005-2018 Chrysler 300. Personally, I don’t think you are going to be very successful removing these from a junk yard car and reusing them. (I’m sure someone will prove me wrong.) This is a part I would just buy new. They are about $20 each and I saw a set of 4 on Amazon for $45

• Part # BSA71650 (I don't think this is the OEM part number, but this is what I purchased.)

BMW Sensors (These are the sensors from the E9X BMW. I used the “Front” sensors in the rear of the Miata, and the “Rear” sensors in the front of the Miata, this is because the Front sensors point straight down at the ring, and the Rear sensors read from their side. (pictures further in the write up will explain this so much better.)

• BMW Front 34526870075 ** See Note below
• BMW Rear 34526870077

NOTE: The BMW Front sensor above will work, but I realized that I actually used the rear sensor out of a 325i. It's basically identical, except it has a longer lead, which is how I am able to run the sensor wire up into the car, the BMW Front that I mentioned above is shorter and won't make it into the trunk compartment but will work otherwise. Here is the BMW number for the part I used / am showing below. BMW Rear 34526870076


Rear Speed Sensors & Tone Rings Install

Unfortunately, I don’t have stock Miata half shafts on my car, so what I did won’t be an exact match / fit. That said, it should be basically identical to what I did. Because the Chrysler tone ring is just a little bit larger than the Miata half shafts & front hubs, you will need a spacer to make them fit. I followed what others did and used the stock tone rings as the spacer. (Actually, I used the e30 BMW stock tone rings, because I’m using the BroFab e30 hubs on my car.)

E30 Tone Ring on Left, Chrysler 300 on the Right



Bronson generously shaved these down for me using a lathe, but if you took your time / got creative you could probably figure out how to chuck one into a drill and grind it down yourself. (or possibly even just free hand it, I believe that is what Wingman did with his.) The E30 tone ring was too small internally for my half shafts, I also had to shave down the inside of the ring too. My measurements weren’t exact and even after having them shaved down with the lathe, I had to pull out the Dremel and grind them down a little more on the inside. (I originally broke one struggling to get it on, so I welded it back together and pulled out the Dremel to get the inside to fit too.)

NOTE: I saw someone make and 3d Print spacers and use them. Personally, I wouldn't go this route, I think there is too much heat in this area to use a plastic, but you could do this for a test fit and possibly send out to some place like send cut send to have them made for you.

Shaved down one (that I broke) next to a stock one.



Once I got the “spacer” on, it was time to install the tone ring on it. What a PITA getting these all on, both the e30 ring / spacer and then the Chrysler ring. I actually ground down the starting edge of the “spacer” so it would be a little easier to get the Chrysler ring on. I spent more time then I care to admit getting all of these rings installed.

(Looks funny, like the Chrysler ring isn't on all the way, but it is.)




Once I got the ring installed and the half shaft reinstalled too, it was time to work on getting the sensor installed. I used the front sensor for the rear, because it reads from the tip aiming down at the sensor. (Someone said that the BMW rear sensor would read from the tip and the side, so I originally just went with 4 rear BMW sensors, but it would not read from the tip, only the side.) I did some rough measurements here, and the plan was to back into the length I needed, since I couldn’t easily measure everything . I took some square stock bar I had lying around and cut off a piece that was just a little longer than I needed. Then I welded a M6 flange nut inside it. This needed two little slices on the opposite sides so it would fit inside the square stock bar. (I then spot welded those sides to hold the nut in pace) I measured the height after doing this by just holding it in place with the half shaft and tone ring in place and recut the bottom to the exact length it needed to be. All that was left was to weld it in place. I was a bit worried about welding to the cast iron upright, but it welded fine. (It’s a cold weld due to its size / thickness, but it’s holding fine and since it's only a tiny sensor. I'm not too concerned. If you don’t have a welder, you probably could use JBWeld on these to hold them in place, although I'm unsure if the hot temps would be an issue or not for JBWeld.

This is how I did it originally using the wrong sensor (this is the BMW rear sensor and it only reads from it's side, not from the tip.)


This is the BMW Front sensor, that I ended up using on the rear because it reads from the tip. It's a tad shorter / stubby so I had to cut off and shorten that piece of square tube you see above.



Lastly I ran the connectors up into the car. BMW uses little plastic boxes that these are normally behind the fender liner for the connectors. I didn't pull those little plastic boxes from the junk yard, and instead, got them out of the way and protected inside the car. (again the wrong sensor in this picture)


This is inside the trunk. This was a "Stock" hole in the sheet metal. I'm not sure what originally it was used for, but it's on both sides and needed to be plugged up, so this worked great. (I did put a little rubber gasket around them too…this was a pain to fit over the connector, but it keeps things a little more water tight and no rubbing.



Front Speed Sensors & Tone Rings

The front tone rings went on a little easier than the rear. I knew for a fact the that inside diameter was the correct width since they came off the e30 hubs, but it was still a PITA to get them all on.



The speed sensors required a little more work than the rear. I wanted them to fit like the stock Miata ABS sensors would. I had previously cut off the big thick metal "tab" on the Spindle that Mazda had left there for the original ABS (although they never machined it unless you got ABS) when I was making my own brake ducts, before I decided to hit the easy button with the Supermiata set up. If the big thick piece of metal is still there, you could just drill two holes in it and thread the one for the sensor. (Although I think this route will be a little harder getting everything lined up properly and to drill those holes. I actually think what I did maybe easier to do / get it all aligned up properly.)

Bandsaw makes quick work of cutting off "tab" for the original ABS



I took a piece of 16 gauge metal and drilled a couple holes in it and welded it onto the spindle. (here it is before I welded it, using some magnets to hold in place)


Like the rear, I sort of made my piece of metal a little too tall and backed into my “measurement”. Great thing with the 16 gauge is that if I was off a little bit, you can always bend the metal to get the sensor gap exactly the way you want. I also welded a nut on the front so it was easy to attach the sensor.

This is test fitting everything before I welded it up




Here you can see the tip of the sensor going through the brake duct and "reading" the ring


I also ran the sensor wire connector up into the engine bay vs leaving in the wheel well so it’s more protected. Again, using a "stock" hole and putting a rubber gasket around it.



Inside the engine bay, I ran the wire up along the inner fender


Next is installing the Yaw sensor & the ABS Pump
__

 

The ABS Pump & Yaw Sensor Done

ABS Pump

You are looking for the ABS pump out of any 6 or 8 cylinder E9x BMW from 2006-2012. Stay away from the xDrive and 4 cylinder cars, those are different systems. If you go to a pull a part, grab the mount and the wire connector too. You will probably want to reuse both.

Here is a list of pumps that I found online (incase you are looking on eBay or something) I did not curate this list, so double check to be safe.

Pump Part ECU Part Software Fitted to:
Where to install

I placed this pretty much in the same spot as the Miata ABS would go, passenger side up against the firewall. Wingman did this originally too, but I believe he has now moved his to inside the cabin. Anywhere you have a spot will work. There was some concern originally that you had to place this in a certain direction to work, but Wingman did the testing here, and it doesn’t have to be facing a certain direction. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t plan to install ABS originally and didn’t keep a nice “spot” for it available. I basically had to shift everything forward which cause me a bit of work remaking brackets and moving everything. (ECU, Oil Catch Can, Coolant expansion tank)

Picture of deciding where things would live. This is the passenger firewall, right below the windshield wiper motor, basically where Mazda put theirs.




Pump Mount

NOTE: engineered2win created a mount that you can print with a 3d printer. I didn’t go this route. The pump is fairly heavy and I just didn’t trust using something 3d printed with this much weight and the amount of heat in the engine bay. (I believe he printed it using a carbon fiber filament, so it maybe tough enough. This is definitely the easy button if you 3D print and feel confident in your choice of engineering filament. From engineered2win This is rev02 of his MK60E5 pump mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7041765 Uses a 3d printed base with heat set threaded inserts and attaches to the Craftworks pump adapter bracket. Attaches to the stock ABS scaffolding mounting holes and should clear the firewall A/C line. Search for MK60E5 in Thingaverse to see the original and a couple other mounts people have designed.

Unfortunately, if you install the ABS pump in the factory spot it’s gonna need to be lifted a couple inches off the shelf between the firewall and the wheel well. Reason for this is because there is the heater core or AC lines (I have one blocked off with, and the other repurposed for an alternator wire.) that are coming out of the firewall right where you would have enough space. When you move it over to fit, you will need to go up to clear the wheel well. (hopefully a picture below will help explain the issue. I noticed that Mazda built their bracket the same way.) Although I have an engine swap, I still ran a wire in one of these holes so still needed to push the pump over a little bit causing me to mount it a couple inches up so it would clear the wheel well.

It's fairly close, but as you can see it's hitting the wire and the wheel well at the same time.




The stock BMW mount is 2 parts (one part is a mount on the pump, and the other is the mount that connects to the BMW) and uses rubber isolators. I decided to reuse the rubber isolators, figuring doesn't hurt to help isolate them.



I looked at where I wanted to install the pump and since there are already a bunch of holes already, I reused a couple that were threaded and added a rivnut into a third that was just a hole. I placed the rubber isolators next to each hole I was going to use in this picture below.



BTW…I didn’t have a plan for this mount before I started, I sort of just started making it and went from there. So it’s a bit of a kluge. When you make a better / simpler mount, please post it for others to copy in the future.

I put some painters tape down to locate exactly where the bolt holes would be.



and used it to make a pattern on some cardboard and transfer that to some 16 gauge scrap steel I had lying around.




I cut it out and test fit the base.



It wanted to flex a bit, so II cut a hole in the center and used a dimple die to stiffen in up. That helped, but it still was bending. If I was to make this again, I would also have put 90 degree bends on the two longer ends to increase the strength.



My original plan / hope was to just bolt the ABS pump to the mount I had made above, but I realized I still needed the pump to be higher so it would clear the wheel well. Instead of reinventing the wheel, I decided to copy what BMW did, and reuse a lot of the original mount. To start I checked out the bottom plate that was originally attached to the pump and is used to attach to the mount. It would work except for the one long arm that goes out the "back" which would hit the firewall with how I wanted to mount it.



So I cut it off and moved it so that it wouldn't be in the way. Here it is after I cut off that end and welded it to the side, so I would still have 3 places to bolt this together.



I then cut off the 3 pieces that had the little posts for these holes and figured out how to reuse them on my mount. I welded these onto my base and got this ugly contraption.



And when you bolt the two together, it ends up looking like this.



and here it is mounted in the car. This height is enough to clear the wheel well. It also sit off from the firewall by about a quarter of an inch.




Yaw Sensor
The Yaw sensor can be found under the driver’s seat carpet on the bmw (if you are pulling one from the junk yard). It hangs down from it's bracket. The sensor is the plastic piece attached under this bracket.



There are a few different types of Yaw sensors (defined if you have 3 or 4 wires that connect to it.) and I believe I’ve read that either of them work, but the MK60E5 came with the 4 wire version. I used part number BMW: 3452 6780334-02 and pulled this out of a 335. It has 4 wires.

Preferably, you want to place this in the center of your car lower towards the ground. That said, you don’t have to go overboard getting it perfect. I placed mine on top of the trans tunnel right where the dash connects to the tunnel. I believe Wingman set his up sort of behind where the glove box would be. So as I said, you don’t need to go crazy getting it perfectly placed in the car.

Here the sensor is upside down, so I could mark where the holes to mount should be. After marking I drilled them out and installed some nutserts so I could screw this down. (no pictures of the nutserts, sorry)



Orientation of the sensor itself is very important. If you were just looking at the sensor and didn’t know any better, you would probably install it upside down and possibly backwards too. The Yaw Sensor needs to be set up so that the wiring harness connector is pointing towards the front of the car. You also want to attach it so that the mounts (look like little winglets) are on the TOP, not the bottom. In the BMW this sensor hangs down and these mounts are so you can attach it so it hangs down. Since we need it hanging, I made some spacers to keep it off from the "ground"

I did this by designing and printing up some plastic “spacers” to lift the sensor off the trans tunnel a couple millimeter. A Link to “spacers”I made.



Note: Since I made mine, someone else has made a mount on Thingverse. You can find their mount here.

I installed a couple rivnuts and used some long bolts to connect it all. (picture is worth 1000 words here) If you don’t have a 3d printer, I’m sure you could easily get creative with some threaded rod, nuts and washers that you lock in place with some Loctite.

NOTE: This is the correct orientation of the sensor. Notice it's hanging from the spacers and the bottom isn't touching the tunnel.



You will need to wire this up and “re-orient” the Yaw sensor before you can call this part done. I’ll cover both in the wiring instructions and the bmw software/ setup.

 

Brake Lines - Done

You basically are going to need all new brake lines. I was able to reuse/repurpose the short line that goes across the rear subframe, otherwise it was all new lines. I thought about trying to repurpose the one rear brake line, but Mazda used steel brake lines, that are a PITA to bend and to flare. It was just easier to run a new line in my opinion.

A few things before you start.

• Brake Balance Adjuster: Most will tell you that you no longer need it, since the rear pressure is now controlled by the ABS. I also heard someone say to keep it so that the ABS isn’t working overtime trying to keep things in check. I’ve left mine in but have it wide open right now (mainly if I needed to cut the ABS off and run the car, which hasn’t been an issue at all).
  
• ¼” Brake Lines from Master to ABS: BMW installed ¼” brake lines from the Master Cylinder to the ABS Pump and 3/16” to all the wheels. I’m using 3/16” line everywhere, and I know others are doing this successfully too. I read somewhere that the ¼” is for stability control when the pump needs to apply the brakes, and you don’t have your foot on the master pushing fluid to it. Not sure if this is true or not. (If someone knows the exact reason for the ¼” lines, let me know and I’ll update this.
  
• Flares – unfortunately, you’re going to need to mix and match here.
  • BMW uses the “DIN/ISO bubble flare”
  • Miata uses the “SAE/Double (inverted/45 degree) flare”

• Brake line fittings / nuts -

• BMW Pump uses the following 2 sizes:
  • 10M x 1.0
  • 12m x 1.0
• Miata uses 10M x 1.0
• Note: if you have aftermarket Master and / or Brake Balance Adjuster like I do, and you’re changing something up on one of them, you may also need SAE threaded Double Flare nuts for those.

• German info to help you (these letters are on the pump letting you know which line goes where):

• V (Vorne) = Front
• H (Hinten) = Rear
• R (Rechts) = Right
• L (Links) = Left
• VR = Front Right
• HR = Rear Right
• HL = Rear Left
• VL = Front Left

Parts I used:

Brake Line: I used approximately 35’ of NiCopp 3/16” brake line.

BMW Pump Fittings: (I’m giving you all of them, but you probably only need the two replacing the ¼” line if you can reuse the original fittings.) I got mine for “the Stop Shop” along with the brake line etc.

• M12 x 1.0” you will need 2 of these
• M10 x 1.0” you will need 4 of these

Rear of car (where the “T” block is/was) –

• Rear Passenger line:
  • Note: (I didn’t do it this way, but a simpler way would be to find a plug for the “T” block and just block where the driver’s side brake line use to attach.)
  • Brake Line Adapter -3AN to 3/16” Double Flare (using 10M fitting) this connects the AN brake hose to the hard line. (Not sure if you need a different Adapter for a stock brake hose.)
  • Brake Clip / Hose Clip (U Shaped clip that holds things in place)
  • Brake Hose Bracket (I had to modify the one I bought to work with the stock bracket that was already there. Info below if you use this same one)
  • Brake line fitting / nut “SAE/Double Flared - 10M x 1.0”
• Rear Drivers line:
  • Union (3/16” Double Flare using 10M fittings) for connecting the rear line to the rear subframe line that you will be reusing

Under Car Unions – I couldn’t run one continuous line from the pump to the rear with items in the way, so I spliced my two rear lines midway under the car. I used the same nuts and flares as the Miata here, (3/16” Double Flare using 10M fittings)trying to keep things as consistent as possible. You will need 2 of these + the 1 above for a total of 3 if you copy how I did things.

Brake Line Clips / Clamps – I reused some of the plastic ones across the top of the firewall. And for under the car I used rubber insulated clamps, cause I had a bunch already. I plan on buying some new plastic clamps for the firewall (or 3d printing some up). The ones I have seem to be working well enough for now.

Brake Line install

I bought and used a straightener for the brake lines. (you don’t have to do this; it just makes them look nicer, and maybe a little easier to install) and for bending I used this cheap brake bending tool from harbor freight.



For flares, I can’t recommend enough that you buy a proper tool for them. Those piece of junk universal ones will cost you more in lines that you throw away and your time, then just buying a tool that works. I got this one (on clearance) for $35 and it does both flare types. Normally you find them for a little more and they only do a single type of flare (like the one below this one.)




I already had this Double Flare to do Miata connections previously. (Also having one like this allowed me to flare lines under the car where I had the splices.)





Firewall / Front of Car Brake Lines

If memory serves, I ran the 2 lines from the master first, and then did the two wheels. I ran these lines across the back firewall following where the original brake lines had run, thus I could reuse the clips. Probably easier to just show pictures of how I ran lines. If I was to redo this, I would have made the lines that go into the pump come down hugging the firewall and bend to go out to the pump connections. Really no need to do it this way, I just think it would look better / less chance of snagging a line by accident.

Picture of all the brake lines, both front & back of car going to the pump.


Picture of front & rear lines going from the master to the pump and the drivers side line. I haven't made / installed the passenger or rear lines at this time.




Rear Brake Lines

These were longer and harder to measure all the bends I needed perfectly / I also couldn’t get the lines ran under the car with the bends, cause the engine / other stuff was in the way. So as mentioned above, I ended up making each as two separate ends and splicing them under the car. I normally shy away from adding a “splice” since it’s just another point for a leak, but I found it necessary. Running the two lines under the car from the Pump is pretty straight forward. Here are some pictures of how I did that.

I built most of the lines off the car. This is the Right Rear line. Where the curvy part connects to the ABS Pump, and the long straight still needed to be bent to follow the firewall / footwell curve to be under the car.


Here you can see how it attached to the pump and it actually turns down right behind the braided metal fuel line (harder to see)


And if you look you can see how the line follow the firewall down. (They are very dark in this photo / it's hard to see, but they shoot down the firewall)



Here they are following the bend in the firewall / footwell curving under the car. (I bent this part by hand once I had the line in place) This why you couldn't run one continuous line all the way back, because the engine etc was in the way. This picture is under the car looking up at the engine. You can see the header down-pipe wrapped and O2 sensor, and the gray part is the front subframe. This is also a great picture of how I held the lines in place under the car using two rubber insulated clamps with a bolt and nut going through the cars floor.



As I said before, I had to make each rear line two lines and union them together under the car. I originally got these lines where I wanted them and then started to make the lines from the subframe back to this junction. These next two or three pictures of the unions were the very last steps. I'm showing them out of order. The final step was joining those lines together under the car here. You can see I made the 2nd line and measured it on the car to get the right length.


I flared the line under the car too. So I didn't have to take it back off after measuring etc.



Here are the lines connected under the car, from rear of car looking forward. The unions are out of focus, but you can see them as the two shiny pieces where the transmission brace is. I had to bend this line a little so it would go around backing plate / nut for one of the anti submarine belts.



For the Rear Subframe end, the Drivers line is fairly easy. After removing the stock rear subframe line from the “T” block, I bent it so that it wasn’t in the way of the passenger line (now that it’s no longer connecting to the “T” block there. Once bent, I added a union and could connect the Drivers brake line to it.



For the Passenger line, you need to do a little more. On the stock car, the brake hose connects directly to the “T” block. With that gone, you need a new way to connect everything.

Note: Another way of doing this, (easier & cheaper) is to keep the “T” block, and keep the passenger side attached to it, running the new line to it, and plug the driver’s side brake line of the block. I couldn't easily find a plug, but thinking about this more, you maybe able to just use a brake caliper

Here are the parts I used to attach the brake hose to the brake line. (You will also need a brake hose U clip. I already had one at home so I didn't purchase a new one.)



Unfortunately, I had to modified the Brake Hose Bracket that I bought. I couldn't find one that pointed the direction I needed, so it could be attached using the same bolts that were used for the “T” block.

As you can see, this bracket points 90 in the wrong direction. I couldn't find one that pointed the way I needed, so I had to modify the bracket to make it work.


I modified the bracket by welding a piece of metal to it, so it faced the correct direction. (had to drill holes in this new piece of metal so it could be bolted in place.) I don't have a good picture of the bracket changes. Best is the one that I have is with the bracket already installed. This picture probably does the best job of showing / explaining what I did.


Here's a picture from another angle if it helps at all.


As far as the brake lines...Bending the lines up in the passenger wheel well, was a bit of a kluge. I did a lot of this by hand and just made it work. Don’t forget to clamp things down into place. Again, pictures are probably the easiest way to explain what I did.

 

Wiring - Done

General info: There are a lot of wires going to and from the ABS Pump, and can seem overwhelming, but wiring is relatively simple if you take your time. I’m assuming you have a basic understanding of how to wire and basic tools. If not, I’d recommend watching a few videos on making a basic automotive wiring harness.

Items to wire (with info below on each item)

• Speed Sensors
• Yaw Sensor
• ODB2 Connector
• Brake Light Switch
• Pump / Power / Grounds

PARTS:

Wire I used approximately the following (your mileage may vary here) . All of this was just general automotive TXT wire. (which is all that BMW used, but nothing wrong if you want to use better / fancier wire)

• ~150’ of 20 gauge
• ~15’ of 12 gauge, my “fuse box, PDM actually” is just on the other side of the firewall from the pump. You may need a bit longer (and thicker if longer) wire depending upon where you wire from. (Note: In case you wonder from a picture you may see. I used two 14 gauge wires for each of these connections vs a single 12 gauge wire. The AIM PDM is set up to use 2 smaller wires verses one larger wire for each connection, thus why I did it this way.)

Connector Sizes / Parts You could just use wire connectors and wouldn’t need these parts. I bought all new pins for everything but the 4 big wires (ground & power). Unfortunately, I had to shop around to buy these parts. No store sold all of them. Thus you end up paying shipping a couple different times.

NOTE: You can buy a “kit” of connectors for the MK60/MK60E5 at Tulay’s Wire Werks. It’s a bit spendy, especially if you already have most of the shells, but saves you time sourcing things.
NOTE: Part Numbers are in Blue...Some of these parts numbers are BMW and others are TE Connectivity connectors from the MQS Interconnect System. MQS is "Micro Quadlok Systems". I believe MQS is even in the title of some of the BMW parts diagrams.

• Speed Sensors
  • 4 Shells - 61 13 1 392 246 - (you can pull these off a BMW and reuse, but they get brittle and tend to break…especially off from a car that is now 15+ years old. (NOTE: BMW made a few different ones of these, I think you want the grey ones, not the blue ones if you pull from a junk yard...the replacement are greenish and look like this

•  
  • Pins 5-965906-1 (you need 2 per wheel speed sensor, these are used for the Yaw sensor too) "Receptacle, 0.63mm". These are female contacts used in the sensor connectors - all four wheel speed connectors, both pressure sensor connectors, and the yaw/accel sensor.
  • Seals 963142-1 (black color)
• Yaw Sensor
  • Shell 61-13-8-365-356
  • Pins 5-965906-1
  • Seals 967067-1 (these seals are green color and fit 18-20awg)
• Pump
  • Shell 61 13 6 954 574 - Main 47POL connector
  • Lid ???
  • Pins (for Grounds & Main Power) 61 13 8 364 846 - Large contact connector (QTY 4 REQ)
  • Seals (for Grounds & Main Power) 61 13 8 372 628 - Large sealing grommet (QTY 4 REQ)
  • Pins 61 13 6 901 726 - (TE part number I used is 1241603-1) connector (QTY 35 REQ ???)
  • Seals 61 13 8 366 245 (TE part number for 18-20awg wires 967067-1 (green color), For 22awg wires 967067-2 (yellow color))
  • Plugs Blanking seal: 967056-1 (blue color)

Odds & Ends

• 5 pin Relay (there are other possible solutions besides using a relay – see brake light switch write up below for more info)
• ODB2 Connector & Pins (you can normally buy these as a little “kit” on amazon or ebay, which is what I did. Or you could pull from some car at the pull a part if you want.)
  • BMW part numbers for this if you want to use the BMW "version" for some reason.
    • 61 13 8 373 323 - OBD plug housing cover
      61 13 8 380 698 - OBD connector
      61 13 8 366 598 - OBD Pins (QTY 10 REQ)**
• (normal car wiring sort of things)
  • Wiring Loom
  • Tesa Tape
  • Heat Shrink
  • Wire connectors

NOTE: If you are using the Happy Cactus converter, you may need to change something in my parts list.


Wiring Diagram – I got this off the FB forum. I made some minor updates to make it a little cleaner, but this really tells you everything you need to know, the rest is more of just how I did things / maybe a couple little tips.




NOTE: If you download the excel version on FB, there are pictures of the actual BMW wiring diagrams if needed.


Speed Sensors –

You need two wires per sensor. For simplicity, I choose to use Green and Dark Green to each one. With Green being the "power" that always goes to Pin 2 on the sensor and "Dark Green" as the signal that goes to Pin 1 for consistency on all the sensors. You will want to make these twisted pairs.

For the Rear, since the ends of the sensors were basically in the trunk, I ran the wires into the trunk going down the passenger side since it was a bit shorter of a run and easier for me. A cleaner approach would be to follow the Mazda wiring harness down the driver’s side. I measured the lengths I needed and created this part of the harness outside of the car. Where I left the wires bare is where they connect into the main wiring harness for the ABS (right at the firewall wiring hole on the passenger side) I ended up zip tying the wires to my cage to hold it in place.



Not yet shown, but I zip tied the connector to the cage so it wouldn't flop arouund.



For the Front, the passenger side is very easy, just run the two wires half-way down the passenger sidewall. As you can see I just zip tied the connection here to hold everything nice and tidy. For the driver’s side, I ran the wires into the cabin, under the dash, and back out to the engine bay from the driver’s side wiring hole. Again, zip tied the connectors here.




Yaw (DSC) Sensor –

The hardest part of the Yaw sensor was trying to figure out how to de-pin the old wires out of the connector. It has a lock that you first need to undo, and then you can get access to de-pin. (Pictures for the win here)

4 wires are attached here.You want to push the white lock forward


Now you can push down from above to de-pin




ODB2 Connector - You’re going to need to wire this in so you can run the bleeding procedure and do some minor testing / checking of things. I placed this in the car on the passenger side right next to my other OBD2 connector (so I could forget 6 months later which one goes to ABS and which one goes to ECU, note to self, label these!) You will want to use a twisted pair for the wiring here too.
Brake Light Switch – There was a lot of debate as to if you need this. I accidentally tested this and the brake light switch is only used for the bleeding procedure; your ABS will work without this, but you will not be able to bleed the system using INPA. The bleeding software needs to know if you pushed the brake pedal or not, so you could sit there and ground and unground this wire during the bleeding procedures. (Note: I’m all for simplicity, but the bleed procedure is timed and shuts down very quickly if you don’t respond fast and it’s giving you commands in German that you need to translate. i.e. you many need a buddy if you go about doing it this way.) This is also wired backwards to what you would think and is always grounded until you push the brake pedal. (Opposite of what our brake switches do, when they ground the connection to turn on the lights.) I wired in a relay to make this work, which I’ll explain below.


NOTE: I believe the BMW brake switch does this functionality, and if you grabbed a BMW brake switch, you would replace the Miata switch with it (it’s two wires) and only need to run a single wire, vs what I did / explaining below and it would be a cleaner install. If you are using the happy cactus ABS converter, I believe it also makes wiring this simpler too.

You’re going to need a 5 pin relay. We are going to use that middle Pin that is almost always ignored.

The ABS brake switch wire needs to be grounded until the brake is pressed (ie, brake lights on). So on your 5 pin relay, connect pin 87A to ground and connect pin 30 to the ABS brake switch wire. Make sure that pin 87 is not connected to anything. That takes care of the ABS signals. Now connect pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to your brake lights (any wire that shows 12v when the brakes are on). (Thanks to @thebeerbaron for writing this part up and sharing the picture below too.)

ETA, for the visual learners:



Pump / Power / Grounds


Power – The MK60E5 draws some big power. (40 amp & 30 amp connections) I connected these to my AIM PDM (on the half bridge circuits, if someone else is using the AIM PDM). If you still have the stock Miata wiring, you probably want to wire to the engine fuse box or to the battery directly (with a fuse / fuseable link). Guessing there is a spot for the stock Miata ABS that you could re-purpose?

You also two 5 amp (wake up & normal) signals and the OBD2 power you will need to wire up. I wired these up to my PDM on the same circuit. You can put them all of them on a single 5 amp circuit in your fuse box.


Grounds - there is a threaded hole right next to the Pump, I just combined the 2 big Pump wires & the Brake Fluid Sensor Wire (which just needs to be grounded) and crimped on an 0-Ring and attached the grounds to the car body right next to the pump.

 

Software & Bleeding - In Progress

You’re going to need to install what looks like early 90’s German BMW software to bleed your brakes, reset the YAW sensor, and debug any issues you have. It also installs like early 90’s software, so if you’re not old enough to remember that pain, you’re in for a treat. I’d suggest you have a stress ball and a box of Klenex before you begin here. This process is going to toy with your emotions.

I believe I “installed” the software about 5 times and spent half a day on this before I could get it working. (NOTE: I installed this on an older Mac Air (back when Intel made their chips) running a bootstrap version of Windows, so I made this harder on myself.)

Another word of caution, think twice before eyeing the BMW sitting in your driveway and wanting to test this software to see if it’s running correctly or not. I bricked one of the control modules on mine doing this and my car wouldn’t lock doors, roll up or down windows, shut off lights that were on, etc. Basically, the car became an expensive Barvarian paper weight, and I had to disconnect the battery till I had the control module repaired.

NOTE: @rb92673 found the easy button. He used his OBD2 scanner. "Foxwell NT630 plus OBD2 reader can read the mk60e5. I was able to test wheel speed sensors and bleed the brakes." I would guess there are other OBD2 readers that work too.

Software

INPA / NCS Expert, etc.

You’re going to need to install a few different BMW programs, they all come as a package. It only runs on Windows. Finding this software is getting a little harder, but it’s still out there. I guess BMW’s lawyers “asked” some people to take the software down. I got a zip file from a friend and installed it a couple times (without success) and then downloaded and installed the version I found on YouTube with a video on how to install it. (I watched a couple different ones of these.) The videos on YouTube from “Evan Goyuk” were what finally worked for me.. You can find the software to install in the description of his installing INPA video. I recommend watching his videos. (He has a couple on INPA and installing it if memory serves, so watch a few if needs be.)


NOTE: I fired up this software after not using it for 6 months to bleed my brakes again. It wasn’t working. I had to go back and set my USB port to Com1 again. I think it swapped back because I plugged something else into that port.



Translation Software

INPA looks like it might be in English, but that’s just a tease on the very first screen or two. The screens that matter to you, will be in German. I fumbled along without downloading any translation software in the beginning. Don’t waste your time like I did typing in a single word at a time into Google. Download some sort of Translation software on your phone and use it instead. I choose “Google Translate” because it was free. There is a feature that you turn on your phone camera and it will translate whatever the camera picks up. It’s pretty slick.



Wire to connect laptop to ABS – Wingman had a really hard time finding a cable that would work for him. This is the exact cable that Wingman got working and told everyone to buy. I bought the same one, and it works for me. (Note: the “switch” should be all the way to the Left to get it to work properly. I stuck a label on mine to I wouldn’t forget)Get Cable Info

Copied from Wingman....
Buy cable(Hi, late 2024 Wingman here. The seller seems to change the listing of this cable occasionally. If the linked cable is blue and has a switch, don't buy! PM me about updating the link instead. The correct cable should be clear/white and be switchless).
I don't know what we will do if that particular amazon seller disappears, but after buying and trying 3 cables, 3 different ABS modules, and 3 yaw sensors... that was the one that worked.

Funny enough I purchased the blue cable thinking I was buying the correct one. It's been working for me, but you must have the switch all the way over to the left side. I even put a sticker on it to remind me. (If you are OCD, I apologize for that sticker placement. It's bugging me ever since I did it. Seeing this picture makes me want to pull out the label maker to fix.)





Using INPA:

From what I could see, different “versions” of INPA (I think the software is the same version, it’s more like the config file is different) have items on the same page, but numbered differently. So don’t worry if your item and mine aren’t in the same exact order / place. That said, I think what below will show you where you need to go.



NOTE: I get a Version Control message saying (once translated) “Malfunction is possible due to version mismatch” you will probably get this too. Just click OK and move forward.



YAW Sensor Calibration – I believe you want your car relatively level when you run this. It takes about 1 second to run.

To get to the Yaw Sensor calibration procedure you will want to click on the following:

• From the home screen choose -> E90 Series
• Choose Adjust Lateral acceleration sensor

Brake Bleeding – I recommend that you bleed your brakes as you normally would and get 90% of the air out of the lines before you start the bleed procedure. There are two bleeding procedures.



To get to the bleed procedures you will want to follow this path:

• From the home screen choose -> E90 Series

Brake Procedure #1 Option “”

You can skip this one. It tells you to open a single bleed valve at a time and either pump your brake or gravity bleed your system for a bit. (I forgot exactly what it said to do.) If you bleed your brakes normally first, you have already covered the first procedure.



Brake Procedure #2 (There are 4 options here, one for each wheel…They all start with “” and end with the corner you will be bleeding)

The bleeding procedure asks you to open up the bleed valve, push and hold the brake pedal at different percentages, release the brake pedal, and close the bleed valve. If you don’t do something that it asks in a timely manner it shuts down the bleed procedure and makes you start over. It shuts down the procedure relatively quickly, so you may end up starting over a couple times. Especially in the beginning when you are trying to translate what it’s telling you. In the software there are 4 different procedures, one for each wheel. I doubt it really matters as much now, since you have individual lines running to each corner, but I’m a creature of habit and ran the procedure for the longest line first and worked my way to the shortest.



NOTE: Pay attention to how much fluid you have in your reservoir, otherwise you may run out of fluid and starting all over again. I’m running the Wilwood 1” brake master cylinder and I would run out of fluid just as the bleed process was ending. Sometimes I would have to prematurely stop it.



FYI…I used ~1 liter of brake fluid to fill the entire system and to bleed the air out of it.





Troubleshooting

There are probably a few other items that you can “test”. I ended up using the few below and figured they probably are the ones most others will use too. So figured I would share.



Error Logs –



Speed Sensors – I had issues in the beginning (because I had the rear sensors in the wrong orientation) and they were not reading. This is how I tested that it was or wasn’t reading and what orientation it would read from. Spin the wheel and see if it picks up the motion. (The green bar will start to fill up as you spin the tire)



To get to the Speed Sensors you will want to click on the following:

• Read Status
• Read Analog Status
• Read Wheel Speed Status

Brake Light Switch - Test if your brake light switch relay is working properly or not here. (Note, if the circle is white, it’s Off, if it’s black it’s On)



To get to the Brake Light Switch you will want to click on the following:

• Read Status
• Read Digital (Switch) Status = Status Schalter Lesen
  • Brake Light Switch = Bremslichtschalter

• Off = aus
• On = on

 

AIM Data Logging & info to log from the Bus - Done for now...Will update when take the time to figure out how to do this part.

AIM PDM Software / reading from the CAN Bus your pressures – I want the ability to read and log the brake pressure, and those messages are sent out from the ABS onto its own CAN BUS. The AIM PDM can read from 2 external CAN Buses and its own CAN Bus (i.e. AIM items like the SMARTY CAM, GPS, Keypad etc. run on this bus).

I have the ECU logging to the first external CAN Bus and wired the MK60E5 onto the 2nd CAN Bus. The AIM software does have the MK60E5 as a choice, but I was unable to get it to read / work. I spoke to someone who did get it to work, and he gave me the following info. I’ll update all of this once I get this part working in case anyone else is trying to set this up too. For now, you get my little data dump.



^This PDF has all the BMW CC (Check Control) numbers and meanings. E8/9x e5 doesn't have warning lights it has CC messages which when there is a fault in e5/e1 and every other module send a cc message... For e5 and assuming also e1 they are broadcast on message 0x5A9

The messages you will want out of that .dbc will be from module “DSC” 0x19E Status's 0x1A0 Speed, Acell lat & long, Yaw etc 0x1A6 Distance (3x counters of wheel speed pulses) 0x2B2 Brake pressures 0x374 Wheel tolerance adjustment 0x4A9 Network management 0x5A9 CC message 0xB6 Torque request 0xC4 Steering wheel angle and rate 0xCE Wheel speeds

Info on how to canbus:
https://www.vector.com/int/en/produc...O1d1Q-qV02-CA#

 

This is rev02 of my MK60E5 pump mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7041765
Uses a 3d printed base with heat set threaded inserts and attaches to the Craftworks pump adapter bracket.
Attaches to the stock ABS scaffolding mounting holes and should clear the firewall A/C line.

 

Thanks for sharing the info! Didn't realize it was someone already on the forum here (although, that makes a lot of sense.) I'll update the thread with this info.

 

Many cats given for all the useful info. This is awesome! I've had the parts on the shelf for a while but never got around to installing them. This is definitely a kick in the pants, along with the revised mounting bracket that clears the AC line!

Those brake line flaring tools are incredible. So much better than the split vise type.

 

Thanks @OptionXIII Still have some cleanup and pictures / info to add. I'd say I'll have it done within the week, but I seem to be taking a lot longer to do this than I originally thought. Holler if you have any questions.

This is getting easier to do with @engineered2win having a bracket that is easy and happy cactus making the converter. I think you'll be very happy with the ABS once you have it up and running. I'm a big fan! Haven't had to replace a flat spotted tire since installing. HA

& Yes to the flaring tools. SO MUCH BETTER than those split vise type. You have to be a masochist to use those split vise type. I tried once a few years back and the flares were never good and I actually broke the die trying. I've never had a bad flare using one of these. Perfect example of using the right tool for the job.

 

Cats given.

This thread is the sort of contribution that makes this site.

 

Does anyone know what the inside and outside diameter of the Chrysler rings are? I am trying to figure out how to adapt my drive shafts.

 

Thanks @Gee Emm Hopefully this helps someone else.

 

I think I may have an extra ring that I can take measurements for you. I'll check later tonight once I get home. (It will be late).

 

Unfortunately, I can't get to where I'm fairly certain the ring is till this weekend. I have a car on jack stands parked under the storage area where the ring is right now. (I need a ladder to get to it etc.) I'll grab the measurements for you this weekend once the car is able to be moved out of the way. (Unless someone else can help you first.)

 

I appreciate it, I am not in a rush. I will also document my install as well.

 

I went ahead and ordered 4 x BSA71650 rings. They are about 80.5mm ID and 84 mm OD.

 

Just thought I would add a picture of my rear sensors. Just drilled and taped the knuckle and used some bar stock.

I also found out that the Foxwell NT630 plus OBD2 reader can read the mk60e5. I was able to test wheel speed sensors and bleed the brakes.

 

I did a very similar install on my car. Mounted Rear e90 Sensors on the front of my miata, Tapped a hole into my Brofab BBK brackets, Used a set of his rings adapted mag rings. In the rear, ground the miata abs spindle casting nub flat and tapped a hole for the E90 front sensors pointing straight at the rings. Rings were created by brofab as well slipped onto Miata axles.

Spent 1 season of TT on this setup so far. Have had 1 or 2 issues with sensors not registering and throwing error codes, after tweaking a bit all is well.

 

BTW, I had my first race a couple weekends ago, and the MK60e5 worked great. Zero programming, zero testing. Straight out of the trailer and onto the track. Bled with an OBD2 reader and Motive power bleeder. Never got INPA to work.