NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

I might can already guess what most of the responses will be, but I will ask anyway. For a future LS1 powered Miata that will be a mix of street and track, would you personally go with the Wilwood Big Brake kit (949 carries it for ~$1800) or would you go the cheaper route and just do the Corrado rotors, good pads, maybe AX6's since it will be street driven, and some stainless lines? I will have the money to do either, but of course saving $1000 for something else would be nice. At the same time the extra stopping power and somewhat the bling factor (at least I'm honest) of the Wilwoods makes them seem well worth the cost. Brakes and suspension are the first things on my list, so it should be soon. I have two ideas in my head of what I want the car to become, and I can't decide on one over the other. One being a fully stripped, mostly full time track car with a little road driving here and there. The other is a balanced track/street car, still keeping things like a/c and heat, and a suspension that won't break my back on the streets.

Would the XP8 be anything resembling streetable?

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

I daily drove XP8s for a few months. Stopped just fine cold, hot even better. This was on the corrado rotors. I just put on the trackspeed wilwood kit, using the same rotors. They'll make swapping pads a five minute job too.
As for bling, 4pot wilwoods vs. heavy-*** single piston calipers. Your choice
If your budget accommodates either, go wilwood.

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

+1 for Trackspeeds Wilwood kit, don't have it yet, but that's the route I'll be taking. Much cheaper than other alternatives.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Damn it. Now another option for me to be indecisive over. By the time you add rotors and pads, you are looking at what... ~$1000 if you go with standard replacement Corrado rotors. The bling of those aluminum tophat's on the kit 949 offers is still tempting. Nothing kills me more than rusty tophats under nice wheels (will be 6UL's of course). Don't know that it is worth an extra $800 though.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I have a big problem with the 989/V8R kit, the e-brake is missing. I have the Trackspeed kit and had a problem where a foreign object of some sort kinked the brake piston and I had total brake pedal failure at 110mph or so. If I didn't have that hand brake I most likely would have gone through the infield out the other side of the track and/or into a wall.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

949 also has the normal front only kit, which is the one I would have to have. No way to go without an e-brake for me, since it would still be my daily in the meantime, and would still see street driving in the future. Still leaning for the 949 kit since it has matching rear rotors, as that kind of aesthetic thing I can't overlook. It really draws my eye when you see awesome front brakes, then in the rear you have rusty shitty tiny rotors and stock calipers. I at least want bling rotors in the rear to even it out. This car is going to be quick, but I also want it to look good, not just a track slave.

Laur3ns

V8R in the rear is BS anyway and for looks only.

Goodwin V4 or (4 or 6pot) V8R in the front
Goodwin V4 in the rear
Add BIG V8R MC.
Profit.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Maybe a stupid question. Is it necessary or recommended to run a proportioning valve on an upgraded setup like this? If both the front and rear get upgraded, it seems like maybe it wouldn't be absolutely needed.

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

I don't want the rusty look either, I'm planning on getting the 1-piece RacingBrake Corrado Rotors for the front (http://www.racingbrake.com/CORRADO_G...1-111-1736.htm) since the Trackspeed kit comes with the centric ring for Corrado rotors and RBs 1-piece rotor for the OE rear. RB makes a 2-piece rotor as well.

Prop valve is still a really good idea for adjustments, even on the stock setup.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Good point. I've got so much crap flying through my head again with money being back in the equation again. I put it all on hold when I went back to school full time and quit working full time. Now I'm going to be back to work, and will actually have money again. I had plans all laid out nicely, but now I introduce the money variable and it all goes to ****. I'm even starting to *gulp* think about turbo over LS1 again. The turbo bug is still there. Now I'm searching for FE info...

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

You can buy the track speed kit and then source your own rotors and aluminum hats since it doesn't come with the rotors, Sav is a cool guy so I have to recommend his stuff. I think it would be the cheapest option for the bling and a good set up. I just checked and you can get new hats and rotors from good win for about $400 for all 4.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I bought those but have not run them yet.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

I may give Sav my business, I'll just have to figure on the costs a bit more first. $600 plus rotors, pads, master and prop valve should be a little cheaper than 949's kit.

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

Sav recommended them to me when he and I were discussing his kit. He said he's using them on his car now.

The way I figured it, it should be well under the cost of the kit. When I did the math, I could step up to 6-pot calipers and still come in under a basic BBK.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

YOu say you are going to run the Corrado rear rotors? Where did you get the adapter plates for the rear? I see Goodwin has a full kit, but I don't see just the adapter kit without their rotors.

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

No, just the OE sized rears from RB.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Ah. That may be the route I go as well. How much of an improvement would you see from larger rear rotors? Surely not nearly as much as the front, which is why so many only focus on the fronts. I guess it would be worth saving a few hundred bucks and just upgrading rotors, stock size rears. 8lb total less in the rear staying stock vs the Corrado rotors, that's pretty big too.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I've got the RB fronts on my car, I'd recommend them for a track car. The standard rotors will do the job for most people, but I was starting to see some hairline cracks after 3-4 days on them so I stepped up.

Rear brake upgrade isn't necessary, but if you want something larger to match you can always go with the M-Tuned rear kit. I do recommend a prop valve regardless of what you do, though.

I DDed XP12s for a few months, they had plenty of cold bite. The only downside is that they dust like no other, but it's not corrosive to the wheels so it's not a big deal.

You should be able to do our BBK, a set of RB rotors, Carbotechs, and a liter of ATE for like $1000-1050 shipped. Add a prop valve and you'll have a really good setup.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Wait, which rotors saw cracking? Standard as in stock?

What about an upgraded master cylinder, do you recommend doing that as well? Or overkill?

I'm thinking XP8 will be good enough for me, since it won't see nearly the track duty some of the cars you guys run. I MIGHT do the XP10's.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

The stock Corrado rotors. I'm not talking like cracks where you look from 3ft and go "HOLY CRAP DUDE TOW THE CAR HOME', I'm talking like little tiny beginnings of hairline fractures. Nothing that hasn't been seen before, it's a really chronic problem on stock C5 Vette brakes. Still, I figured I should jump up to a rotor that's properly vented, unlike the stock Corrado rotor.

Upgraded MC is a good plan too. I'm going to prototype a 626 master cylinder and see if an install kit makes sense, or whether it just ends up being a drop-in part. BikeInDirt, one of the Cali track crew guys, has it on his car and raves about it.

XP8s will be fine for someone just starting out. Keep an eye on pad life, and if it starts to dip below the 4-5 day mark consider stepping up to the next compound. If you go too high, though, you run around with the pads below their optimal operating temp and they wear quickly as well. The three compounds (8, 10, and 12) also have different modulation and initial bite characteristics - the 10s are a bit softer and modulate with pedal travel vs. pressure, while the 12s have a crisper initial bite and modulate with pressure.