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-   -   My continuing big brake saga (https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/my-continuing-big-brake-saga-58720/)

Savington 07-05-2011 02:55 AM

I definitely wouldn't trust Loctite, I can see heat discoloration in the mounting wings on the rotor ring. We use Resbond there. I also like to see critical components wired.

Rennkafer 07-05-2011 10:50 AM


Originally Posted by Savington (Post 744982)
I definitely wouldn't trust Loctite, I can see heat discoloration in the mounting wings on the rotor ring. We use Resbond there. I also like to see critical components wired.

Which is why we use jet nuts as well, the loctite is extra ins. I find it somewhat humorous that you'll trust Gr5 hardware but not loctite.

If you're using through bolts with nuts on the hats/rotors and safety wiring the bolt heads, how will that keep the nuts from loosening? Safety wiring the heads of bolts is more appropriate for blind hole applications.

hustler 07-05-2011 10:59 AM


Originally Posted by Rennkafer (Post 745078)
Which is why we use jet nuts as well, the loctite is extra ins. I find it somewhat humorous that you'll trust Gr5 hardware but not loctite.

If you're using through bolts with nuts on the hats/rotors and safety wiring the bolt heads, how will that keep the nuts from loosening? Safety wiring the heads of bolts is more appropriate for blind hole applications.

Vibration and sheer are two different things. He's using bolts.

hustler 07-05-2011 11:01 AM


Originally Posted by Rennkafer (Post 744734)
At work we use only AN hardware on brake hats with AN washers, jet nuts (MS-21042), and loctite, no safety wire. Never seen one get loose in 6 years... it's the only way I'd do it personally.

I don't care to be the first. When I'm going into turn #1 at TWS at 150mph, I'll appreciate that safetywire more than you will.

hustler 07-05-2011 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by Spookyfish (Post 744564)
Just returned from the shop trying out new brake duct ideas.
I already have big 3" scoops in the bumper from which I will run 3" ducting that will end near the roll bar end-links as I have no 3" duct plate. In between there will be a 12v marine blower which moves volumes of air so it will cool at speed as well as pit-in.

I don't think you're going to need all that stuff for these massive brakes.

ZX-Tex 07-05-2011 01:01 PM


Originally Posted by Rennkafer (Post 745078)
If you're using through bolts with nuts on the hats/rotors and safety wiring the bolt heads, how will that keep the nuts from loosening? Safety wiring the heads of bolts is more appropriate for blind hole applications.

The hat/rotor bolts are not through-bolted. The hats are threaded.

Safety wire is the way to go. That is why it is required by several race organizations on critical fasteners, like brake hardware and oil drain plugs. My CMRA track bike has safety wire on several engine fasteners, brake fasteners, and several suspension components. You will not get through technical inspection without it.

2manyhobyz 07-05-2011 01:06 PM

The Locktite people said their stuff is good up to 400 F. Not adequate for brake stuff IMO.
Sav, do you offer small bottles of Resbond?

Savington 07-05-2011 03:07 PM


Originally Posted by Rennkafer (Post 745078)
Which is why we use jet nuts as well, the loctite is extra ins. I find it somewhat humorous that you'll trust Gr5 hardware but not loctite.

The hardware quality doesn't bug me - Wilwood uses and sells the same stuff. I don't trust Loctite specifically in any situation that involves heat - I use it in plenty of places, just not in the brakes or the turbo setup. The Resbond probably isn't necessary, but it's a second line of defense should something happen to the safety wire.


If you're using through bolts with nuts on the hats/rotors and safety wiring the bolt heads, how will that keep the nuts from loosening?
There are no nuts - the hats are tapped, and the bolts are drilled through the head and wired in four pairs.

Jeff, we don't sell small quantities of Resbond separately.


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