In for updates.

There doesn't seem to be shit in the NorthEast concerning reasonabley priced Torsens.

No yards have them and every add is directed towards the spec crowd:

"freshly rebuilt [pulled from a yard car with 140k] Torsen - $1400"

-Zach

1995
Carrier
Mazda Miata MX5 NO ALUM. COVER, GEARS ONLY $250 Best Foreign Auto Salvage USA-PA(Aliquippa) E-mail 1-800-370-6002

1996
Carrier
Mazda Miata MX5GOOD LOCKERA4879$550Beasley Foreign Parts, Inc. USA-MI(Holly) E-mail 1-248-634-8681

So far so good after one track day, it survived a full days abuse, no odd noises and operates smooth. It wasn't my car, but I did get to drive it for a few laps, and my opinion is it's very similar to the oem unit, the track was a new configuration and i didn't have my miata with to actually do a back to back comparison.

Bottom line is, it works as an lsd, and it didn't fail in any manner.

That one in Aliquippa is about 3 miles from my house.

That is good news but what are the specs on the car that was running the diff? Stock?

The 4.3 7" open diff sitting in my garage is getting tempting to mess with now.

Bust-the one in Aliquippa turned out to be an open.

(zack morris's phone)

So what's the torque ratio of these obx diffs? Type I or ii?

I've read elsewhere that the ratio is about 2.1:1, but it depends on which quaife this is a copy of. Quaife isin't very forthcoming with this info for whatever reason.

Here are a few neat reads on the obx diffs:

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=520556

I just read this one...

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/.../page__st__180

Lots of really good info in there.

Also this one. I'll be doing this to my casing as well...

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=520556

In the first link they discover that a lot of the times the gears are installed the wrong way forcing the gears to the middle under accel instead of the outer side of the casing. This causes huge force to be put on the washers.

So the 3 (or 4 if you're ---- like me) things to do.

1)replace washers
2)replace bolts
3)ensure the gears are installed the correct way
4)optional... clean all the burrs and glass bead the casing. I may even cryo the gears.

I ordered all the stuff i need including the diff.



http://batou1.googlepages.com/obx_gears.JPG

are there two sets of gears or do you have to recut the helicies?

No you just flip them over to make a right hand helical a left hand helical.

Same way you can make a right hand tap a left hand tap by tapping a part from the bottom.

OK after reading through that new stuff, I just tore open the obx diff again. I flipped the gears by taking the ones from the bottom and putting them on top. I'm going to trust that internet forum in that these units sometimes are assembled backwards.

Very funny haha. Even funnier that I just tried to figure out how to flip the gear in my head.

There are two sets of gears in there that make up the torsen, basically one for each axle and some units come with them in the wrong orientation. The rsxforum thread that falcon posted is great

Yeah no problem. Seems there are a bunch of guys running this in the Nissan R200 diff with 350ft'lbs and doing track days with no issues. And Honda guys with 600whp drag launching on them.

As much as it pains me to run an OBX product... the forums back it up as a decent budget diff if the few things I listed are corrected.

Dustin, were yours backwards?

The best way to really check it is to orient the diff as though it is sitting in the housing and mentally "turn" the input shafts. If you turn it that way, do the gears move outwards? OR inwards? You want outwards. And approx .090 of compression on the washers. That, along with 12.9 bolts should give you a fairly clunk free and good diff.

Ah, so there is two sets of gears, one left hand helix, one right, and the left hand little gears and right hand middle gear is supposed to be on top when looking at it with the above orientation?

Is there a way to put preload on these so it does not go open when you lift a tire?

I believe that's the point of stacking the washers in such a way to increase the height when stacked. they have to compress down when installed, and that provides some preload.

So the washer tension determines preload, and possibly lock ratio?