wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

What is the optimal front ride height for different springs. I'm assuming 1/4 to 1/2 inch rake is optimal.

450#
550#
700#

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

You lost me, what?

wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

Typo-I meant rake

hustler

iTrader: (6)

4" front, 4.25" rear

/thread

greeenteeee

4" up front? That's pretty low! Mine is at 4 1/8" F and 4 6/16" (4.375") in the R and looks like this with 10kg/mm front spring rates (560 lbs/in)
(I'm actually thinking of raising the front a little...)

Savington

iTrader: (31)

As low as possible without bottoming the suspension or screwing up geometry, so basically 4" with rake to taste.

wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

Ok, that's probably perfect for heavy spring rates of 750# + but as the rates soften the ride height probably needs to increase to compensate or else you end up riding around on the bumpstops a lot. Now for a track only car minimal travel and engaging the bumpstops sooner might be the fastest way around the track

wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

Or whatever height leaves the front tie rod ends flat to the ground at static rest and tune for driving conditions by springrate or bumpstop variations

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Are you tracking the car?

wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

No, I'm just throwing this out there for discussion purposes. My ride height is about 13 inches.

PhilMD

Depends what you classify as best? Best in my book would be grip (contact patch loading), and you have to work with what you're given. You'd need to find the best place for the RC and migration, which determines whether the load transfer is elastic (springs/sways/dampers) or geometric (suspension arms, chassis).

Low will make it feel like a go cart, but control is king. IMO.

Phil

greeenteeee

Doesn't the elastic part usually try to minimize geometric issues? (stiffer to reduce mvmt along suspension curve?)

Also, how would you determine these elastic and geometric issues by "feel"? Or is that possible?

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

93LE tie rods.
Edit: I think

PhilMD

Springs and sways will provide a resistance to roll, but that's different to weight transfer. Unless you can re-write the laws of physics, it doesn't matter how stiff the springs/sways are, weight transfer is going to happen, you just don't see all the effect of it with big springs.

That's a lot more difficult. I'd say you need a lot of ride and handling training and experience. Datalogging traces will work as well.

Phil

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

This is 4" at the pinch welds, correct? I'd heard frame rails from some and pinch welds from others, making sure.

greeenteeee

I've always measured from the side jacking points that extend out a little more than the entire side pinch welds. Frame rails are closer to ground, no? Savington's looks higher than mine so maybe he measured from the frame rail?

OP: Are you trying to find a height for specific spring rates or trying to keep the tie rod arms parallel? FWIW at my current height, I like the height and wish I didn't have to raise it, but I will since I need more clearance. I don't even pay attention to the angle of the arms.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Finding ride height for 700/400 springs and RB hollow front sway, MSM rear. I know it's 4", I'm just not sure from where.

greeenteeee

Well since it seems your're looking for Sav's height...

FWIW, I copied 949's 4.1F 4.4R PINCH WELD height but will be raising it for clearance-- under a splitter, not under the fenderwell.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Awesome, thanks.

90R

iTrader: (4)

the height should be set so you can draw a horizontal line. From the center of the lower control arm bushing and the lower ball joint.