Out of tie rod thread with camber, extended lowers or angle kits
 

Hey there, thought I'd share my findings of how to remedy an issue when running angle kits, extended/adjustable lowers or pretty much around -8 degrees of camber. There are people who make extended outer tie rods but they're all pretty much for stance shit, being too long and also expensive. I've never seen anyone talk about this before but this has helped a few people so I'm throwing it on the internet. Easily replaceable/cheap parts and replicable was my goal for this.

My situation used to be 1" extended oem LCAs iirc and then later I switched and am now on Destroy or Die LCAs. I tried first to remedy this problem by having the lower ball joint on the inner-most setting for least camber. Was running -4.5 to 5 and was able to align it straight with enough thread engagement. However, after going to the track soon after I saw my rotors were contacting the lowers near lock (think of it as wheel bite on a skateboard or just pretty much braking for you... not good) since all that extra adjustment on the arms were sticking out and the ball joint was so far in. So I moved it back out to the middle setting which most people run on and was achieving around -8 degrees or so but I ran back into this tie rod problem I had before.

You may have heard of people running s13 outers because they thread onto our inners with the same M12x1.25 thread pitch but are slightly longer. These still don't allow for enough thread engagement in some cases, including mine. They would work, but very unsafe due to very little thread engagement. What I found is Nissan Axxess/Stanza outer tie rods are just longer s13 rod ends. This ended up working for me perfectly, enough thread engagement and still room for adjustment. Measurements and part numbers listed below.

You can use Mazda 323 inners in conjunction with 1" extended outers if you have some laying around (I was going to use this as a backup) which are the only other inners to exist that will thread into a NA rack. They're a bit shorter so instead of bottoming out the extended outers on the stock inners and not being able to achieve a good alignment this may be an option. I never tried it but with my measurements it makes sense. (I used 87 MODEL YEAR inners, not sure which generation that is). I think the cheapest and best option is to run the Stanza/Axxess outers, since the whole setup are oem parts.

Measurements:
Stock NA PS Inners- 12.56"
EV329

Mazda 323 Inners- 12.09"
EV254

Stock NA Outers- 3.7"
ES3191

S13 Outers- 3.94"
ES2814RL

Stanza/Axxess Outers- 4.41"
ES3142RL

Hope this helps someone for whatever they need it for.

That much camber is way outside my needs and I assume the same is true for most people on this site.

But, thanks for sharing. I love seeing OEM parts get swapped instead of using questionable aftermarket bits. And it's always good to see tech share in a place that is readily searchable and won't disappear like a Facebook page.

Thank you!
 

This was great Info I will be going and picking some of those up! I have a full destroy or die angle kit and I can’t adjust my ball joint out cuz I run out of thread. Been trying to find a solution to this for about 2 months now and I’m glad I just stumbled soon this. Thanks!!!!