Please help settle a brake bleeding argument.
 

Stupid question I know. But how long should I except the bleeding of the breaks to take after caliper replacement?. I'm not changing the fluid, just removing the calipers, plugging the system and then reinstalling followed by bleeding individually.

The argument is coming about because my girlfriend wants to design some sort of insane manifold system to purge all the calipers at once.

Tell her just to worry about pumping that brake pedal.

How long does it take you to count to potato?

With someone at the pedal, about 5-10min per wheel to do a full flush.
With a home built power bleeder, 1-2min per wheel for a full flush.

Just to bleed after a part replacement? Less time than it takes to make a decent sandwich.

After my wife helped with mine, she said 'Never Again'. getting in and out with the cage while the car was on jackstands was too much.

I did a calipar rebuild, it took a long time, and I had to go around twice.

Motive brake bleeder works excellent and can be done without a helper.

This

2nd. My wife has to add in a few leg days now between track events to make it up.

I have the Motive bleeder as well but I have a hard time getting it to seal on the reservoir so it usually makes a mess. If I have a second person available, I'd prefer to bleed using the 2 person method. Just did this on a friend's Miata a couple weeks ago - bleeding an empty caliper took about 5 minutes per corner. 1 quart of fluid was enough to bleed all four corners till clear, then all four corners burped again.

I picked up a Motive power bleeder from TSE a while back. I love using it to do initial air purging. I found though that I had better results if I went back and manually bled the brakes after I use the power bleeder.

I wish I could find the correct cap to use on the clutch master. I found one that people said work, but it won't ever completely seal and always leaks out when i get positive pressure.

On the clutch, I fill the reservoir, then wrap the bleeder fitting in Teflon tape and leave it lose by ~1 turn. Put some fluid in a bleed bottle, hook up the hose, and pump the clutch until it feels correct. Snug the bleeder screw and you're done. No need for a power bleeder or a helper. The Teflon tape on the threads helps to seal the threads so you're sucking only fluid from both ends of the system (and passing air bubbles the entire time).

I just mounted my wilwood dynalites and bleed the clutch also.

I got this
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b31cefe79a.jpg

Just blow thru it and the venturi effect does the job.
Costs like $21,50 here in Sweden and does the job literally single handedly.

No problem sucking on those wilwoods and the black nipple fits all stubs imaginable.
Probably the best money spent in a cheep'o utility store.
Took like 5 minutes to bleed all brakes around with the wheels off (since i got air in while changing calipers front) and <1 min to fill my braided clutch hose

I use one of these too. I got mine at Harbor Freight for around $20 on one of their crazy sales. When changing calipers or lines, I let it suck for one cycle of my 30 gallon compressor per caliper. That amounts to about 1 pint of fluid total.

When the fetching Mrs. Dallas is available to help, I have her stomp 5 times per caliper, which also amounts to 1 pint of fluid total.

Similar. I use the power bleeder to get things moving, go around the car, and then I do a gravity bleed. Same with the clutch.

I got the Motiv system from Hoerr Racing Products with 1109 and 1111 adapters. Pretty sure the 1109 is the clutch adapter and 1111 is the brake master. Works fine for me. I do not fill the Motive bleeder with fluid and just use it to pressurize the system. If the master gets low, I pull the adapter off, top off, and reapply. I've also used a Mityvac to get brake and clutch cylinders primed. That can work real well when you don't have an adapter for the Motive, and works great on motorcycles/dirtbikes.

The other thing I do is tap on the brake calipers with a Mallet to try to unsettle any trapped air bubbles. I don't think it does anything with stock calipers, but it's basically impossible to bleed wilwoods without doing it.

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Those bubbles you see in the lines are getting sucked back into the caliper with this method. I'd do one of the other methods where the fluid is on a one way trip out of the calipers. I personally find the high velocity of the two person pump and bleed system to be the most effective at getting all the air out.

A few things I've learned with the power bleeder:

1. Make sure the pressure vessel is about even to the master cylinder reservoir if you put fluid in there. This helps keep the level in the reservoir correct. If its higher (like sitting in the cowl), you'll overfill the reservoir and it becomes a mess fast. I use a small TV tray sitting next to the fender and it works perfectly. No removing the cap to refill the master cylinder.
2. When done bleeding, if you slowly release the pressure by undoing the pump, you will suction a lot of the fluid from the transfer tube back into the pressure vessel.
3. Lightly tapping the calipers (even stock ones) with something (hammer, wrench, hand), does help to loosen up any bubbles held on by surface tension.