poly bushing install QUESTION
 

on the rear, lower, outboard side long bolt, I have no problem getting the nut off on each side. How do you get the long bolt out. It won't budge (on either side) not even with an electric impact. I've also tried hammering it out

you need to heat the spindle where the bolt goes through and use some penatrating fluid.

I did mine by slamming a big metal hammer against it on both sides. It was basically corroded in place, but I got it out eventually.

I'm giving up for the day. I have it soaked in PB Blaster. If I can't break it loose tomorrow with an impact or a hammer, I'll borrow my son's propane torch. All the other bolts came out easily in the rear except for these. My car only has 52K on it

Thanks all

Big hammer with a 2x4 to save the threads from hammer impacts. If you have impact stuff do both at once. It can suck. Don't torch you axle boots though.

I had to replace wheel bearing recently. I pulled the top bolt, swung the knuckle down so you can see the exposed portion of the long bolt. Then used a torch to heat the whole thing and rubbed a candle on it. The wax liquifies and gets pulled inside the joint. Then just using a wrench to turn the bolt, get it moving and repeat until you can knock it out. After just a few minutes, one hammer whack sent it flying out. The great thing about wax is that it gets drawn to wherever you put the heat.

got one side out, put a crapload of anti-sieze on it and re-installed it.

My bolt won't turn even with an impact (it's electric not pnematic). I will try the candle wax and heat idea

I destroyed mine hammering them out, and then purchased new ones.

Finally
 

This was the winning combination. I beat on the bolt (with the nut screwed on to protect it) with a big brass headed sledge (no 2 x 4). It finally broke loose, but the nut AND the bolt are trash. The threads on the bolt are messed up.

Thanks for all the advice!!