Stein

iTrader: (46)

I figured that I might as well replace the old factory ones on the V8 car while everything is apart.

Good-win sells these for $99. http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-0480.html

Searching, moss has the exact same photo in their ad for $169 at Saferacer.

http://www.saferacer.com/moss-motors...?productid=562

I don't know if they are the same or if someone stole someone else's photo. Any thoughts or others to consider as opposed to the $99 ones from Brian?

Also, I have an M-tuned Corrado front big brake kit to go in. It came with a set of XP10 front and rear pads.

I know that most run XP10 front, XP8 rear on stock rotors, but I figured with the larger rotors up front yielding better leverage, maybe the ZP10/10 is OK? They came this way with the big brake kit used.

Finally, will I need a prop valve?

Thoughts?

I'm planning on another set of rotors/street pads for DD duties.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Track guys? Anyone?

frostyllama

iTrader: (3)

you've been shunned by the community for going v8. for shame. for shame.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

You would not say that if you had driven one. Miata + V8 = awesome

In for the answer since I could probably use new brake lines.

EDIT: Emilio has a setup as well $114
http://949racing.com/miatabrakelines.aspx

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Hustler needs to chime in...

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

Stein, what is your brake setup going to be? If you decide to go with the TSE kit the front lines on both kits linked above will be useless.

That said, i have gone from stock (1.6) to 1.8s, then stainless lines and now the TSE kit up front stock 1.8 rears with stainless lines all around. I am finally content with my braking setup. DTC-60s up front ducted (thanks again Machismo) and DTC-30s out back. This is all joined together with a willwood prop valve.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Sorry, I could have been more clear. It's the M-Tuned kit which is basically a set of brackets to move the front stock calipers out so they will work with the 11" VW Corrado rotors. http://www.etdracing.com/m-tuned/pro...products_id=80

Rears are stock Miata. This is on an NB.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Glad I clicked that link. Have to remember to get the fluid when I order whatever I order. I have dropped hundreds on shipping costs the past few months building this thing. I keep remembering parts that I need. Every time I turn around it's another $10 shipping. I've shipped half a car in the last couple of months.

/rant

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I am here, fear not. I swapped to sport brakes and my old "1.8-length" SS lines did not fit. TDR sells brake lines for a reasonable price that will fit the sport brakes.

Yes, you want the wilwood bias valve. However, I recommend the one with the funky handle so you can visually look at it and know its setting, rather than the mystery of "how many times did I twist the ****."

The problem with Corrado rotors is the "outboard venting." They don't take in enough air and you have to spend $180 on inboard vented rotors from Racing Brake or your **** will overheat like mine did.

You also need to use a very hard pad with the single-piston calipers or the compressibility of soft pads will cause extreme pad taper. I recommend blues if you're going to use shitty single-piston brakes. If you're not tracking this thing, disregard everything I've said.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

TDR has that same picture as Goodwin and Saferacer LOL
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...rake_lines.htm

You can ask Emilio if his lines will work with the adapter kit. I have the same thing, Corrado rotors on the front and sport rotors on the rear. I also have the Wilwood bias valve but with the larger rear discs and the XP10/XP8 Carbotechs, I barely can dial in any bias before the car gets unstable under braking. I have it at maybe 1/2 a turn from all the way out.

You can drive those carbotechs on the street, I have. But they are freaking noisy little bitches. They squeal like a ****.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

TDR/Gary makes his own from a hydraulics shop down the street. I know this to be fact. His are unique to any other miata kit.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

damn...I'm at 900* from 50/50. lol

Stein

iTrader: (46)

So maybe with the standard rear NB rotors which are bigger than NA but smaller than sport the XP10's aren't too much for the rears and I can fine tune with bias.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

FWIW, Moss is always a ****-ton more expensive on the same exact British car parts than their chief competitor, Victoria British. I would expect that to be their situation on everything they carry, even brake lines.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

That would be my guess, yes.

There was a big debate in some old thread around here about whether or not the larger rear brakes were even really needed with race pads. But with the LS1 I did not want to take any chances on the brakes so I did it anyway.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

So I guess my only question is to see if the Good-Win or Emilio's lines work with the relocated big brake kit (should if ZX's stock lines work with his).

I can always up to sport rears down the road. I might as well throw the prop valve in anyway while everything is torn apart. What's another $50 at this point? It's been a steady stream of cash flowing out anyway.

Anyone that says you can realistically do a quality V8 swap for less than $10K is kidding themselves.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

OK, last question - which fluid?

Motul RBF600, Wilwood EXP 600, ATE Super Blue or something else?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

BRAKE FLUID DRY BOILING POINT WET BOILING POINT SUGGESTED
LIST PRICE
AP SUPER 600 590 o F 410 o F $18.00/16.9oz.
CASTROL SRF 590 o F 518 o F $69.99/33.8oz.
NEO SUPER DOT 610 610 o F 421 o F $15.00/12oz.

MOTUL RACING 600 593 o F 420 o F $15.00/16.9oz.
MOTUL DOT 5.1 509 o F 365 o F $6.50/16.9oz.
ATE SUPER BLUE 536 o F 392 o F $11.99/33.8oz
VALVOLINE SYNPOWER 503 o F 343 o F $4.97/16.9oz.
ATE SL 500 o F 329 o F $7.95/16.9oz.
CASTROL LMA 450 o F 311 o F $3.50/16.9oz.
AP 551 528 o F 288 o F $12.50/16.9oz.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

^ So basically, any 600-ish boiling point at a reasonable price and easily available is fine, right?

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Yep - You can even look into the Ford Racing fluid (I know right?). Fairly cheap and good for up to 600*