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Old 12-04-2010, 02:51 AM   #1
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Default Raceland Dyno Test Results

Speaking of dyno charts, Disaster was kind enough to volunteer his new and unused Raceland shocks for dyno testing at Stewart Development.

Bernie dynoed the shocks today, and here are the results.

There's a lot more to this story, as Bernie had a look inside while the shocks were there. What he found was a bit surprising, but I haven't seen the photos yet so I'll leave it at that.
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Raceland Dyno Test Results-gedc0021.jpg  
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File Type: pdf Dan Lauring, RaceLands, 12-3-10.pdf (43.3 KB, 1277 views)
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:55 AM   #2
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So......good or bad? i dont do well with charts....
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:01 AM   #3
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Could be better, could be worse.....

Keep looking and some not to difficult to see characteristics should stand out.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:08 AM   #4
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They aren't very consistent are they...
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:09 AM   #5
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the only thing i noticed is that each shock put out a diff number...

one front had i higher compression and decompression numbers than the other side, same with the rear?

im curious to see these pics you speak of...
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:16 AM   #6
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They aren't very consistent are they...
Not particularly, but I think you'd be surprised how few shocks actually are consistent from side to side.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:31 AM   #7
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If you know which ones are weaker than the others couldnt you put those on the pass side of the car seing how there would be more weight on the driverside more often than not? (weight from the driver)
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:40 AM   #8
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They have a similar curve to another shock, I just can't think of it at the moment...???

Last edited by rbluemx6; 12-04-2010 at 03:50 AM.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:45 AM   #9
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If you know which ones are weaker than the others couldnt you put those on the pass side of the car seing how there would be more weight on the driverside more often than not? (weight from the driver)
Shocks aren't really handling the vehicle weight...more the unsprung weight, so you'd be better off compensating by gluing some weights onto the A-arm...but I wouldn't seriously recommend that.

The big thing that struck me was how much less rebound damping there was on the rear shocks. I'm not sure why you'd want less rebound damping on the rear suspension....especially that much less.

I'd also be curious to see how these compared to the stock OEM Koni's and a typical aftermarket shock, like the GR2's.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:48 AM   #10
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Looks like a decent aftermarket shock (similar to the Xida curve) in the front and a stock shaped curve in the rear (similar to Koni sports or AGX on soft).

People are saying these things are smooth on the highway?

Last edited by Braineack; 12-04-2010 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:59 AM   #11
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They're reported to be comfy for those who leave some bump travel in their setups. I suspect they'd reach their limits and become quite boingy on a rough road pretty quickly; especially the back.

What struck me is that the rears have more bump damping than rebound damping. First time I've seen that in a dyno graph.
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:06 AM   #12
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They both have a lot of bump dampening.
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Old 12-04-2010, 05:26 AM   #13
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Mine are still doing great. Its been exactly a year now. Still no problems. Street car though, no trak.
One thing I want to change: soften up the back. Its WAYYY too stiff. The fronts are fine over bumps and potholes, the rear shudders from time to time.
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Old 12-04-2010, 06:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Looks like a decent aftermarket shock (similar to the Xida curve) in the front and a stock shaped curve in the rear (similar to Koni sports or AGX on soft).

People are saying these things are smooth on the highway?
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Originally Posted by Thucydides View Post
They're reported to be comfy for those who leave some bump travel in their setups.
who knew?

now if Bernie would post his pic's and comments on the dissection.

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I suspect they'd reach their limits and become quite boingy on a rough road pretty quickly; especially the back.
I have yet to experience that

Last edited by 90R; 12-04-2010 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 12-04-2010, 07:45 AM   #15
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Horrible, IMO. They're just underdamped in general.

Front, Bump - Poor low speed damping for the spring rates. High speed gradient too aggressive
Rear, Bump - As above, just worse.

Front, Rebound - No low speed control for transient control. High speed rate a touch too aggressive
Rear, Rebound - As above, just worse

Classic mistake of tuning for spring rates ie a stiffer spring needs more damping. That's not the case, as you're tuning ride frequencies not spring rates.

Phil
PS Does Bernie have a F vs PV graph as that would be the raw data rather than averaging which provides another view of the data?
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:28 AM   #16
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One thing I want to change: soften up the back. Its WAYYY too stiff. The fronts are fine over bumps and potholes, the rear shudders from time to time.
Could that shutter you are feeling be because there isn't enough damping and the rear isn't being controlled like it should?

We've got a 2009 Hyundai Genesis that has this exact problem. A lot of people on the forums complaining about the shocks and springs being "too stiff" but in reality, it is a bit underdamped, which can allow the suspension to get excited over surfaces that it should not. Some people say they've hit sections of highway pavement where the car starts porpoising back and forth. The spacing of the waves in the pavement overwhelms the dampers. I'm looking into buying upgraded components from the 2010, but it just occured to me that maybe someone like Bernie could tune the shocks we've got on there...though I don't think my wife would be too happy to have her car up on blocks for a couple weeks. :-D

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Horrible, IMO. They're just underdamped in general.
The only obvious underdamping I see, is the rear's in rebound.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilMD View Post
Front, Bump - Poor low speed damping for the spring rates. High speed gradient too aggressive
Rear, Bump - As above, just worse.
The compression doesn't look that far off from some other, highly touted shocks (Xida's for example.) However the slope is a bit steeper...particularly the front slope. Maybe it's harder to get a flatter slope with a twintube?

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Originally Posted by PhilMD View Post
Front, Rebound - No low speed control for transient control. High speed rate a touch too aggressive
Rear, Rebound - As above, just worse
The front rebound curve doesn't look to dissimilar from a trace of another good shock. The rear just makes no sense to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilMD View Post
Classic mistake of tuning for spring rates ie a stiffer spring needs more damping. That's not the case, as you're tuning ride frequencies not spring rates.

Phil
PS Does Bernie have a F vs PV graph as that would be the raw data rather than averaging which provides another view of the data?
The spring rate changes the frequency, doesn't it?

I imagine he has all the typical data that dyno testing would provide but he's also got customer's shocks to work on, so more data and analysis, from him, will have to wait.

Last edited by Disaster; 12-04-2010 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disaster View Post
Could that shutter you are feeling be because there isn't enough damping and the rear isn't being controlled like it should?
the spring rates out of the box are jacked. There's just no way to work around it. an 88% F/R bias on the RL and a 92% bias on the Rokkor's just sucks.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:50 AM   #18
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the spring rates out of the box are jacked. There's just no way to work around it. an 88% F/R bias on the RL and a 92% bias on the Rokkor's just sucks.
True, so it is a combo of too much spring and not enough rebound damping. I'd have to pair these with considerably softer rear springs because the car is weighted toward oversteer as it is...or maybe I'd have to disconnect the rear sway.
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:07 AM   #19
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275-300# rear spring with a stock rear bar if you have an LSD
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
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275-300# rear spring with a stock rear bar if you have an LSD
Really? There's less damping than an OE damper there.
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