Rear end snaped!
My rear end snaped right in one of the arms. I had my buddy welded back with a strong thick weld. Do you guys think it will hold? Or am I wasting my time? I really don't want to buy a new one.
|
|
It is aluminum. Did your buddy weld it together properly? The size of the weld does not matter as much as doing it CORRECTLY does. If he used regular 'ol welding and not specifically an aluminum welder using a tri-mix of gas I don't see it holding together well.
|
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 471431)
SNAPED
|
potter potter potter potter
|
rear control arm snapped??? what did you do?
snape snape severus snape, DUMBLEDORE! |
|
Originally Posted by naarleven
(Post 471442)
rear control arm snapped??? what did you do?
snape snape severus snape, DUMBLEDORE! I was launching the car and the rear just snaped, I'm pretty sure he welded it good as he does it for a living. I guess I'll have to just try it and cross fingers?I would just hate to be left out on the side of the road |
i'd start looking for a new one. Should be fairly cheap at a scrap yard
|
Yesh if only someone was selling a rear end...
|
It will be fine if welded properly. I've seen many diffs like that last for a very long time once welded. Welded ones are usually stronger as the diff is designed to break there in a rear end accident. (Diff is knotched to allow this to break)
|
anyone with the notched model diff should grind the notch to be a smooth transition over like 2 inches and it wont break so easily.
|
Originally Posted by Marc@M-Tuned.com
(Post 471500)
It will be fine if welded properly. I've seen many diffs like that last for a very long time once welded. Welded ones are usually stronger as the diff is designed to break there in a rear end accident. (Diff is knotched to allow this to break)
Good bit of info, Thanks |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 471467)
|
It just so happens I have spare in my garage. Whats it worth to you?
|
Been there done that.
|
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
(Post 471609)
It just so happens I have spare in my garage. Whats it worth to you?
|
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 471523)
anyone with the notched model diff should grind the notch to be a smooth transition over like 2 inches and it wont break so easily.
So once the notch is removed, it won't break as easily although it's now thinner throughout the 2" length? |
Originally Posted by kenzo42
(Post 471630)
Dumb question:
So once the notch is removed, it won't break as easily although it's now thinner throughout the 2" length? it focuses the stress at a single point on the surface instead of distributing it along a longer length naturally. same deal for cutting glass... you score a line to create a stress concentration and it breaks easily at the line. it is weaker at that point than even a thinner piece of glass. |
So why did Mazda put the notch in anyway? Prevent frame damage in rear end collision?
|
read the thread......
|
Originally Posted by kenzo42
(Post 471637)
So why did Mazda put the notch in anyway? Prevent frame damage in rear end collision?
|
I can't find the nuts and bolts from driveshaft to diff can I just go pick up some grade 8 bolts instead of ordering from Mazda?
|
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 471432)
It is aluminum. Did your buddy weld it together properly? The size of the weld does not matter as much as doing it CORRECTLY does. If he used regular 'ol welding and not specifically an aluminum welder using a tri-mix of gas I don't see it holding together well.
|
Soooo can I?
|
I ran that way for a long time, with bolts from ACE. No biggie.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:19 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands