Im starting to notice that welding either shrinks or distorts or both, the sleeve ID. This seems especially true when you full weld it 360 degrees on both ends. Ill see if I can add a lead in on all future sleeves to facilitate starting the bearing straight. Lost deep inside the spherical thread, I offered loaner press tools. These are still available if anyone needs em!
Although others have welded with 0 issues, I still recommenced the retaining compound. This should be enough for a couple of cars This should do at least one. McMaster-Carr Ive used 638. 640 and 680 should be acceptable as well. Also, the bearing will, and should tighten up a little when you press it in. It will be difficult to move my hand, but should move when you stick a screwdriver or something with a little leverage through it. They will loosen up a little with use. |
I used to weld a lot of these, for off road suspension. lots of cooling was key. I eventually made a brass slug that I slid into it while welding. controls the shape and draws out the heat. Had it laying around. Aluminum would work too. could be a cheap add on..
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Aidan, What caused the groove to collapse? My initial efforts were always moderated by thinking about what a disaster it would be if I damaged that groove. That was a blessing as it turned out I was doing it all wrong.
The more I reflect on it, the more convinced I become that Dave's tool, and the chamfering of the bore, made all the difference. The unmolested set went together so smoothly it was as if they had practiced! Yes postage is a bit of a killer, but small light stuff is ok. Having said that, the practicalities of sending stuff like that back and forth across the Pacific are a bit of a worry. We learn to make do!! EDIT: Just seen Sean's post. It is possible that one of my sleeves was/is distorted. The other is ok judging by the ease it went together. Mine are 360 welded, both ends. Dave's tool would soak up some heat, if we had had it when the welding was being done, and had thought of using it for that ... The 'good' sleeve has a loose bearing, just like it was before being installed; the other is as you describe Sean, firm/tight, moveable with a screwdriver. |
Freezing that bearing for a couple hours would probably help a lot too. Along with the aluminum insert tool.
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Got my bearing in and sleeves are held in with the Loctite sleeve juice.
Though I had to rubber band them from sliding out under gravity. They seem pretty locked in there now but it was a little questionable at first. Hopefully sometime in June I'll be installing them. I have't had a free weekend for a month+ |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1328342)
Got my bearing in and sleeves are held in with the Loctite sleeve juice.
Though I had to rubber band them from sliding out under gravity. They seem pretty locked in there now but it was a little questionable at first. Hopefully sometime in June I'll be installing them. I have't had a free weekend for a month+ https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462207002 Ryans tips are great, I suggest they are followed. I can make a heat sink slug/weld spatter guard thing for those that are welding them, just ask. |
Edit: Accidental post
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Thank you for the reviews everyone. We are now a supporting vendor so contact us for any information you need about bushing kits.
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Props for officialness.
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Dang. Millenials doing the entrepeneur thing. Must make Bernie proud to see future massive taxpayers in the making.
How do I order a bushing kit? Just make a PayPal donation for the correct amount with a note? Send an E-mail? |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1335873)
Dang. Millenials doing the entrepeneur thing. Must make Bernie proud to see future massive taxpayers in the making.
How do I order a bushing kit? Just make a PayPal donation for the correct amount with a note? Send an E-mail? |
carrier pigeons with gold coins
they don't have phones.....yet....must sell moar kits |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1335878)
carrier pigeons with gold coins
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These look tempting. It's great to have more options.
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Def interested in a set of these for my car
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I would certainly be interested to hear someones feedback on using these in a street car. I do have some compromises to NVH already, but overall my car is a very comfortable street car. I would love the increased feedback but I assume inherently this would come with more NVH.
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We are waiting for @thumpetto007 to install them on his NB. As far as I know everyone else that has installed them has done so on a race car.
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Would like to give you feedback, but my miata sees less and less off-track time than ever anymore.
On track they're fantastic through. Drove my car (poly kit) back to back with Aidan's, and the difference was very clear. |
Ryan taps his fingers, waiting for a set.
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Originally Posted by SADFab
(Post 1352891)
We are waiting for @thumpetto007 to install them on his NB. As far as I know everyone else that has installed them has done so on a race car.
Transmission finished up today in North Carolina, so it shouldn't be more than 2 weeks from now where I have the first drive. I'll be sure to post my own review thread. I'll have an additional perspective as well. I have a female (gasp) that has ridden in the miata often, before bushing, trans, and billet top mount installation. She is very sensitive to NVH, and general ride dynamics, as she gets car sick easily. This will help with a more real world opinion. |
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