Sanity/ Logic check before $$Baller Brakes$$.
 

I'm about to spend $2K on brakes with the intention of never having to fuck with anything but pads, fluid, and rotors ever again. The car is street driven, HPDE/ AutoX on the weekends. Here goes:

4 Piston Rear Upgrade Kit - V8 Roadsters Yes, I'm deleting the hand brake. IK it's probably a mistake, but mine has never worked, and I live in florida, where elevation and inclines aren't things. I don't feel like buying the FM kit with cables since it's so weak. Will I regret it later and end up having to keep wheel chocks in the car? Yes.

Master Cylinder Upgrade Kit - V8 Roadsters To improve pedal feel.

Trackspeed 11.75 Gen2 Big Brake Kit Dynapro 4-piston, straight vane rotors (not curved vane because I don't do a lot of tracking atm, and am still running 200TW tires.)

Centric Brake Rotors Because cheap and it don't really matter. Centers painted black to dissuade rust.

2X ATE Typ200

Carbotech Performance Brakes, CTW7812-XP8 and Carbotech Performance Brakes, CTW7912-XP8 This is where I need some advice. I'm going with these because I've not heard anything terrible about them in terms of their performance. The squeaking and dusting doesn't really bother me, but I'm ever so slightly worried about the minimum operating temperature. I've heard some people say that they need a good stop after exiting the highway to regain their bite, is this true? I'm running Hawk HPS now, and they usually warm up just as I leave the neighborhood. Any advice on factors that I'm not considering is welcome and much appreciated.

2X Motive Products 0100 Pressure Brake Bleeder, Wilwood Master Cylinder To bleed the new master, because I hate working till 8PM on a Sunday trying and failing to bleed the brakes properly. It's a happy coincidence that the clutch master uses the same size adapter.

Some relevant info: Right now my car is 110whp, 2300lbs, 225 200tw tires. Eventually 230WHP, 2200LBS, 225 100tw tires. At some point in the far off future 400whp, 1500-1600lbs, 275 hoosiers. Any advice is welcome and much appreciated.

Is trackspeed's BBK a radial mount?

I got everything from V8roadsters, including expensive rotors and pads, and I think my total was 2200.

Do it! There is no sanity with modding cars. Just spend money and enjoy the love hate relationship with your car!

Will you be pressurizing both reservoirs with your bleeder? What splitter are you getting? I'd like to do the same. Thanks.

No, I'm just buying two bleeders. I really hate bleeding brakes, lol. Now it looks like I'll be spending another 200 for radial mounted V8R goodness. That's your fault :fawk:.

I'm really struggling with V8R's website design, did you have to contact V8R to order exactly what you wanted? Also, sales tax. Eww:burncash:

You're welcome. :D

Yes, I had to contact them directly, but that's because I am retaining my sport rear calipers. I couldn't order the Coleman two piece rotors on the website, nor the brake pads I needed.

Email them, they respond within the day. Shandelle took care of me, and so did Johnny, of OG racing.

Well, a single brake bleeder should work, just would have to pump it a few more times, being attached to both masters. I'll be finding a Y or T splitter so I can attach both 0100 attachments at once.

What brake pads did you end up with?

I tried to find it in my emails, but I think the final pad choice was two different Hawk compounds. One compound for street, one compound for track duty.

I know that doesn't help much, but Shandelle can offer the same pads as me if you ask him. Tell him you want the Hawk pads Marcello went with.

Cool, man. Thanks for the help!

get on my level, noobs

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...20aa8d9c87.jpg

:giggle:

^dangit, always 1upping me!

Hows the pedal feel?

hard. like me
locking up all 4 at 160mph like a champion. but only after 5 160-0 stops to heat them up of course :D

Hey thump, why'd you go with the Coleman 2-piece rears? Aside from being lighter and looking shweet, isn't the 10.75" rotor inferior to a 10.9" sport rear rotor as far as leverage/braking torque is concerned? Do you have to run a different caliper bracket with the Colemans?

I'm actually unsure, I haven't recieved the stuff yet. I'll update you with details.

I wanted them because I thought they were better (and Shandelle told me so) I want to lower the weight of my car without taking anything off it, so I like parts that function the same or better, but are much lighter.

I'm of the same mindset and love lighter parts, but why not take anything off it?
I can think of 100lb we can yank out of it right now and you wouldn't even notice.

I never understand the thought process on these type of questions.

At the moment you are running HPS street pads on track and don't like the brakes, yet the plan is to go with Carbotech track pads with the big brakes and also run them on the street.
Put decent track pads on first and drive the car. Street pads for the street, track pads for the track.
With your HP level and weight, big brakes are not a high priority item.
Decent track pads and brake ducts before going hog wild.

For reference, I run a 2003 with 250hp at 2600lbs with me in it. Tires are 205/50-15 Nitto NT01's.
It has stock Sport brakes on Mazda rotors, with Cobalt XR2 Front/ XR4 Rear pads and 2 1/2" brake ducts.
The car has no braking issues on track at VIR, the Glen, Road America, Mont Tremblant and Laguna Seca running up to 40 minute sessions.
I can brake deeper than most people and never run out of brakes. This is with fresh, off the shelf Castrol or Valvoline synthetic fluid from Walmart or AutoZone.
I run the Cobalts on the street because I am lazy and street driving is to and from the track and the Cobalts work well at low temperatures.
The Motive Bleeder is the way to go.

+1 to shlbygt's post. Big brake kits are a complete waste of money for you right now.

Yes, thats why we want them.

We love wasting money on premo parts, it makes us happy.

My not liking the brakes has nothing to do with the pads themselves, even though they're almost down to the backing plates. It's the creaking dynalite calipers in front, it's the clanking pads in the rear (because the pad retention hardware wouldn't fit over the rotors.), it's the fact that I could never get it to bleed properly, and it's the fact that the rear calipers auto-adjust themselves to the point of not working. Are the brakes I'm looking at probably overkill as fuck for my current usage? Hell yeah they are, but the fact is that I'm not going to spend money now to buy a new master cylinder, 2 new front calipers, and new rotors/ pads all around just to spend it all over again down the line on better shit. Buy once, cry once.

I'm no longer going with the XP8s, btw. I'll probably go with a less aggressive setup on some cheaper rotors ATM and when they're worn out, replace them with more focused hardware.

Yes. Shiny parts FTW.