Zabac

iTrader: (39)

What have you done to make your Miata stop better.

1.6 to 1.8 conversion?
Did you go to fancy big brakes?
Did you fab something up and used other car brakes?


I have a 94 car, so it came with the larger brakes.
I am using Brembo slotted rotors, Hawk HP+ pads, Ate superblue fluid, CDOC supplied SS brake lines.
When i ordered my lines, they sent me the wrong kit, it didn't include the distribution block for the rear lines. This I didn't know! Currently I only have the front lines, and it sucks, I lock up the fronts at almost every turn in. This will hopefully change once I have time to install the rear lines as well.

I am very pelased with the stopping power (especialy in a straight line) and do not see myself going to big brakes anytime soon.

Out of all that I have done, i feel the SS lines are the single most important along with the fluid. Huge difference in brake feel and they do not fade anymore.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I got in on the super-duper-awesome-deal that PlanetMiata offered about a year ago. I got a full 1.8 conversion including pads/discs for (I think) $185? I'm sure the rotors are standard NAPA blanks and I went with HAWK HPS pads. It might have been less $$ now that I think of it.

I already had the Goodridge lines and just use Kragen brand fluid. For the street or auto-x, I can't imagine needing anything more. Nothing ever gets hot enough to justify spending more money. If I got into some serious HPDE, then a fluid upgrade would be justified. I'm extremely happy with the modulation and fade for the street. I think another factor people often overlook when it comes to stopping is your tires. My 195 T1R's are not a very good match to the strength of the brakes. I'll upgrade to some 205 Azenis at some point and I'm sure my overall braking capabilities will double.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

Good point, tires are what's in contact with the pavement. I do have the 205 azenis. Straighline stopping improved like you wouldn't believe.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Hey Dan, where did you get the SS lines from? price?

Regards,

Rafa

p.s. We're in the quarterfinals! (we have to face Italy next )

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Here are the cheapest complete braided brakeline set I've seen:
http://advanced-autosports.com/prod05_brakes.htm

Don't forget to pick up their full-length clutchline at the same time:
http://advanced-autosports.com/prod01.htm

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

It is doubtful the rubber lines have anything to do with the lockup.....

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

I've given up with my brakes. The ABS unit makes the pedal feel as soft as jello. They stop ok with Axxis Ultimates on stock 1.6 brakes, but it sure doesn't feel good.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Whats that little block for?

------

I bled my brake fluid a little while ago and went with mobil synthetic fluid, didnt produce a very big difference.

I recently upgraded to PBR Ultimas and that produce by far the most impressive difference in stopping power. I was also considering a big brake upgrade for the front, but Chad said get new pads and I did and WOW. No need anymore.

Im kinda on the fence about SS lines, I doubt the rubber ones have enough flex to matter. I really want to drive someones car with em, but I have personal doubts they make a difference.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

How many miles on the stockers? If a bunch, they ought to be replaced anyway, and IIRC, the SS lines are on par in price with new rubber, so why not?

I have 166k on the stock lines, so am probably due

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

All of the braided line systems I've seen include that block. There is only one hardline that extends the length of the car to the back. That block mounts near the fuel filter and THEN it goes to each wheel. The fronts have individual hardlines coming off the master cylinder (so if you lose one, you don't lose both), but the rear only has one hardline... and then makes the split at that block in the back... make sense?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

when the car is on stands, just before you bleed, let them spin, then hit the brake, this will cycle the abs. do it a few times. watch all the air pockets come out when you bleed.

I replaced all my ate blue with ate gold, and it still felt like ****. so i did that, and a crap load of the old blue came out, as well as a bunch of air.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

i started with the panache big brakes.
then i upgraded to the FM/Goodwin current generation big brakes (many similar parts)

they are probably responsible for lowering track times on my car at least as much as the turbo is.

spike

I have the Chikara BBK,the kit consists of CNC billet steel caliper brackets,nuts & bolts,2 Wilwwod calipers & Wilwood BP-10 compound pads,Earls SS braided lines for the front,Goodridge SS braided lines for the rear and ATE superblue brake fluid.

For the rears,I'm undecided which route I wanna go.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I've been running 94whp on the track with stock 1.6 brakes on Hawk hp+. I need a set of 1.8 brakes, or I'm going to swap the current ones out with my 1994 car. It that's not enough brake, I have sport brakes in the garage, but the rotors are stupid expensive.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for those links Sam!

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

01+ sport brakes. will see how it works...

Stein

iTrader: (46)

I've got a 99 sitting at home ready to part out with everything you need. Are these are bigger than the 94-97? Just send me some mo' money.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the explanation.

How are the factory lines T'eed off from the master hardline?

My stockers? Like 23k miles.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

If only my axles had ABS rings...I don't think the pump will cycle, since it recognizes the lack of gear teeth.

Hopefully I can replace the axles soon...once I pick them up from Ben.

M-Tuned

iTrader: (6)

Corrado 11" Rotors with Relocated 2000 Brake Caliper and Axxiss Ultimate Pads on the front and X-Drilled Rotors and Axxis Ultimates on the rear.