Teaser: M-Tuned 10.9" Rear Brake Kit
06-22-2009, 04:52 PM
#23
Tour de Franzia
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yes...use a sealant on the npt adapter threads so your life is easier than mine was.
I'm not overheating my rear 1.8 brakes on the track with a properly dialed-in bias valve...so why go with this mod? Is it just so the rears can look big?
I'm not overheating my rear 1.8 brakes on the track with a properly dialed-in bias valve...so why go with this mod? Is it just so the rears can look big?
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06-22-2009, 07:16 PM
#24
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No matter how fast you are, it means nothing if you cant stop. Can never have to much Brakes IMO. It usually only happens once when your messing around going way to fast for that turn one off the front stright and that brake pedal falls right to the floor. Knowing the session before the brakes were so hot you can lit a cig off the rotors and the brake fluid was already boiling over. WHAT DO YOU DO? kiss the car goodbye? and if you save it? change your shorts and do a brake up-grade asap 
I did the both while yelling OOOHHH ****! lol it many never happen to most but to the few that have felt brake fade know what i am talking about, and its some scary *** ****. my .02 cents.
I did the both while yelling OOOHHH ****! lol it many never happen to most but to the few that have felt brake fade know what i am talking about, and its some scary *** ****. my .02 cents.
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06-23-2009, 12:07 AM
#29
Cpt. Slow
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These are really just for track cars or for those who really need a big brake look through the back wheels. Guys, 1.6 brakes with race pads have been proven to be great for SM (N/A) racers. People usually upgrade to a good street pad and 1.8 brakes when they're turbo'd, and 1.8 brakes with race pads of it's a tracked turbo'd car.
These kits are for the racers who have wide r-comps, race pads on all four corners, 11" rotors in the front, and their adjustable proportioning valve can't get them enough rear bias for their particular driving style.
I hate to go all m.net on everyone (racers excluded), and possibly sway buyers from m-tuned's great product, but don't buy these if you only drive your car on the street! It took me five 60-0 runs to get a little fade out of 1.6 brakes with hawk HPS+ pads (that's 60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph, slamming the brakes each time almost to the point of lock up). You will NEVER do that on the street! Well, I did, but it was a test. You'll only be adding rotational mass to your back end, after you just spent that money buying the ultra-light-can-actually-see-through-the-spokes-and-see-your-brakes-wheels. Just my
These kits are for the racers who have wide r-comps, race pads on all four corners, 11" rotors in the front, and their adjustable proportioning valve can't get them enough rear bias for their particular driving style.
I hate to go all m.net on everyone (racers excluded), and possibly sway buyers from m-tuned's great product, but don't buy these if you only drive your car on the street! It took me five 60-0 runs to get a little fade out of 1.6 brakes with hawk HPS+ pads (that's 60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph, slamming the brakes each time almost to the point of lock up). You will NEVER do that on the street! Well, I did, but it was a test. You'll only be adding rotational mass to your back end, after you just spent that money buying the ultra-light-can-actually-see-through-the-spokes-and-see-your-brakes-wheels. Just my
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06-23-2009, 12:55 AM
#30
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These are really just for track cars or for those who really need a big brake look through the back wheels. Guys, 1.6 brakes with race pads have been proven to be great for SM (N/A) racers. People usually upgrade to a good street pad and 1.8 brakes when they're turbo'd, and 1.8 brakes with race pads of it's a tracked turbo'd car.
These kits are for the racers who have wide r-comps, race pads on all four corners, 11" rotors in the front, and their adjustable proportioning valve can't get them enough rear bias for their particular driving style.
I hate to go all m.net on everyone (racers excluded), and possibly sway buyers from m-tuned's great product, but don't buy these if you only drive your car on the street! It took me five 60-0 runs to get a little fade out of 1.6 brakes with hawk HPS+ pads (that's 60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph, slamming the brakes each time almost to the point of lock up). You will NEVER do that on the street! Well, I did, but it was a test. You'll only be adding rotational mass to your back end, after you just spent that money buying the ultra-light-can-actually-see-through-the-spokes-and-see-your-brakes-wheels. Just my
These kits are for the racers who have wide r-comps, race pads on all four corners, 11" rotors in the front, and their adjustable proportioning valve can't get them enough rear bias for their particular driving style.
I hate to go all m.net on everyone (racers excluded), and possibly sway buyers from m-tuned's great product, but don't buy these if you only drive your car on the street! It took me five 60-0 runs to get a little fade out of 1.6 brakes with hawk HPS+ pads (that's 60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph-60mph-0mph, slamming the brakes each time almost to the point of lock up). You will NEVER do that on the street! Well, I did, but it was a test. You'll only be adding rotational mass to your back end, after you just spent that money buying the ultra-light-can-actually-see-through-the-spokes-and-see-your-brakes-wheels. Just my
With a prop valve, you CAN get enough rear bias; even a former go-karter who likes rear lockup to help rotate the car entering corners can get enough rear bias.
Hawk HPS and HP+ pads are two different kinds, so not sure which you were using, but either way that's a street pad, so fading them is not surprising.
Agreed on the adding un-sprung rotational mass to the car. Completely useless.
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06-23-2009, 01:32 AM
#32
Cpt. Slow
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Track cars don't need these brakes....
With a prop valve, you CAN get enough rear bias; even a former go-karter who likes rear lockup to help rotate the car entering corners can get enough rear bias.
Hawk HPS and HP+ pads are two different kinds, so not sure which you were using, but either way that's a street pad, so fading them is not surprising.
Agreed on the adding un-sprung rotational mass to the car. Completely useless.
With a prop valve, you CAN get enough rear bias; even a former go-karter who likes rear lockup to help rotate the car entering corners can get enough rear bias.
Hawk HPS and HP+ pads are two different kinds, so not sure which you were using, but either way that's a street pad, so fading them is not surprising.
Agreed on the adding un-sprung rotational mass to the car. Completely useless.
I was running Hawk's HPS pad, my apologies for the confusion. My point was that with street pads and 'puny' 1.6 brakes it takes a lot of abuse to get any fade.
I don't mean to sound argumentative, we're on the same side. Perhaps we should drop it though, help mark make some $$$.
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06-23-2009, 02:38 AM
#33
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I just don't want people to think they need bigger rear brakes for ANYTHING other than looks.
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06-23-2009, 11:17 AM
#35
I'm going to add my from this past weekend at barber. I've got the 1.8 upgrade on fronts and rears. Slotted rear rotors, $30 front rotors. Rear pads are Hawk blacks, Fronts are a race pad from FM, and an adjustable proportioning valve. Brakes were bled before the event so that the fluid was fresh (synthetic DOT3/DOT4). My instructor who was also driving his GTA car this past weekend drove a few laps in my car to show me the capabilities. He said the brakes were fantastic. He thought with a few sessions he could get within 5sec of his gta cars lap times. I completed 2hrs of total track time.
From my limited real world track experience, this upgrade doesn't seem necessary.
from this past weekend at barber. I've got the 1.8 upgrade on fronts and rears. Slotted rear rotors, $30 front rotors. Rear pads are Hawk blacks, Fronts are a race pad from FM, and an adjustable proportioning valve. Brakes were bled before the event so that the fluid was fresh (synthetic DOT3/DOT4). My instructor who was also driving his GTA car this past weekend drove a few laps in my car to show me the capabilities. He said the brakes were fantastic. He thought with a few sessions he could get within 5sec of his gta cars lap times. I completed 2hrs of total track time.From my limited real world track experience, this upgrade doesn't seem necessary.
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06-23-2009, 02:43 PM
#37
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Yeah just giving Hustler a hard time. He was going faster than me at the MSR track day.
I have managed to throughly fade my stock 1.8 brakes in the twisty roads NW of San Antonio in the Hill Country. They faded to the point where I had to stop and let them cool off, and they were definitely outgassing (I could smell them). But this is on low-speed twisty roads where there is not much speed, or time, for them to cool off. IIRC I brought this up in a previous discussion.
At the track day I did not push my brakes real hard, and in fact backed off a bit as soon as I felt them start to fade in a session where I was braking more aggressively. This is with fresh brake fluid, but stock rotors and ceramic street brake pads. No ducting. No prop' valve.
Soooo... I was seriously considering going to at least the Corrado rotors on the front. It is interesting to hear Sav say the rear upgrade is not needed for the track. I do not have enough track time in a Miata to argue that point one way or the other.
I have managed to throughly fade my stock 1.8 brakes in the twisty roads NW of San Antonio in the Hill Country. They faded to the point where I had to stop and let them cool off, and they were definitely outgassing (I could smell them). But this is on low-speed twisty roads where there is not much speed, or time, for them to cool off. IIRC I brought this up in a previous discussion.
At the track day I did not push my brakes real hard, and in fact backed off a bit as soon as I felt them start to fade in a session where I was braking more aggressively. This is with fresh brake fluid, but stock rotors and ceramic street brake pads. No ducting. No prop' valve.
Soooo... I was seriously considering going to at least the Corrado rotors on the front. It is interesting to hear Sav say the rear upgrade is not needed for the track. I do not have enough track time in a Miata to argue that point one way or the other.
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06-23-2009, 03:10 PM
#38
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Yeah just giving Hustler a hard time. He was going faster than me at the MSR track day.
I have managed to throughly fade my stock 1.8 brakes in the twisty roads NW of San Antonio in the Hill Country. They faded to the point where I had to stop and let them cool off, and they were definitely outgassing (I could smell them). But this is on low-speed twisty roads where there is not much speed, or time, for them to cool off. IIRC I brought this up in a previous discussion.
At the track day I did not push my brakes real hard, and in fact backed off a bit as soon as I felt them start to fade in a session where I was braking more aggressively. This is with fresh brake fluid, but stock rotors and ceramic street brake pads. No ducting. No prop' valve.
Soooo... I was seriously considering going to at least the Corrado rotors on the front. It is interesting to hear Sav say the rear upgrade is not needed for the track. I do not have enough track time in a Miata to argue that point one way or the other.
I have managed to throughly fade my stock 1.8 brakes in the twisty roads NW of San Antonio in the Hill Country. They faded to the point where I had to stop and let them cool off, and they were definitely outgassing (I could smell them). But this is on low-speed twisty roads where there is not much speed, or time, for them to cool off. IIRC I brought this up in a previous discussion.
At the track day I did not push my brakes real hard, and in fact backed off a bit as soon as I felt them start to fade in a session where I was braking more aggressively. This is with fresh brake fluid, but stock rotors and ceramic street brake pads. No ducting. No prop' valve.
Soooo... I was seriously considering going to at least the Corrado rotors on the front. It is interesting to hear Sav say the rear upgrade is not needed for the track. I do not have enough track time in a Miata to argue that point one way or the other.
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06-23-2009, 08:59 PM
#40
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Until you are demolishing race pads on stock-sized rotors, larger rotors are not necessary.
I only upgraded to the Corrado fronts after doing this to a set of XP12s:
I have destroyed a set of XP12s, a set of XP10s, and a set of Raybestos ST43s, and my original set of rear Carbotech XP10s still have 50% of their life left. This is WITH a prop valve.
I only upgraded to the Corrado fronts after doing this to a set of XP12s:
I have destroyed a set of XP12s, a set of XP10s, and a set of Raybestos ST43s, and my original set of rear Carbotech XP10s still have 50% of their life left. This is WITH a prop valve.
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