1.6L Miata Torque specs for diff swap
#1
1.6L Miata Torque specs for diff swap
Hey guys, I need a huge favor from you guys. I cannot seem to find my Haynes(or Helms) manual that has all my Torque specs in it :( so I'm fully lost with what specs I need to torque things at. The car is a 91 with a stock replacement 1.6L diff in it.
Here are the specs I have, can someone please double check to make sure that they are right?
Hub nut - 159-217 FT/LBS
rear PPF bolts - 93-113 FT/LBS
Driveshaft - 37-43 FT/LBS
17mm Diff bolt- 61-72 FT/LBS
12mm Diff bolt- 13-20 FT/LBS
I am missing the specs for the four bolts that go through the flange on the Differential to hold each axle in place, as well as the specs for the top wishbone that connects to the rear hub.
This bolt-
And, these ones-
All help would be appreciated! Oh and btw, please check the specs that I have already got!
Here are the specs I have, can someone please double check to make sure that they are right?
Hub nut - 159-217 FT/LBS
rear PPF bolts - 93-113 FT/LBS
Driveshaft - 37-43 FT/LBS
17mm Diff bolt- 61-72 FT/LBS
12mm Diff bolt- 13-20 FT/LBS
I am missing the specs for the four bolts that go through the flange on the Differential to hold each axle in place, as well as the specs for the top wishbone that connects to the rear hub.
This bolt-
And, these ones-
All help would be appreciated! Oh and btw, please check the specs that I have already got!
#2
There is a '92 Factory Service Manual here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...-manual-48633/
You should download it.
Replacing a broken 1.6 diff with another 1.6 diff. Interesting.
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...-manual-48633/
You should download it.
Replacing a broken 1.6 diff with another 1.6 diff. Interesting.
#4
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,175
Total Cats: 1,129
"Goodntite". That's what I've done for over half a dozen diff swaps without issue. The drain and fill plugs are especially humorous, I've never seen one torqued.
The axles should have a standard (metric, but no flange) nut with a lock washer. Make sure there's one on each of the four studs and tighten it close to as tight as you can with a box wrench (no breaker bars and such).
The drain plugs have crush washers, tighten them as much as you would the oil drain plug. If you see any seepage, snug it up a bit, doubt you will with a new crush washer though.
For the upper control arm, some might say you'll bind up the bushing if it's too tight, but with the spacer in the bushing, you won't. So again, goodntite.
The axles should have a standard (metric, but no flange) nut with a lock washer. Make sure there's one on each of the four studs and tighten it close to as tight as you can with a box wrench (no breaker bars and such).
The drain plugs have crush washers, tighten them as much as you would the oil drain plug. If you see any seepage, snug it up a bit, doubt you will with a new crush washer though.
For the upper control arm, some might say you'll bind up the bushing if it's too tight, but with the spacer in the bushing, you won't. So again, goodntite.
#5
New link from the Brain:
Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums
Not sure why the mt.net stickies aren't being maintained. :(
Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums
Not sure why the mt.net stickies aren't being maintained. :(
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post