Tell me not to be a pu$$y
 

misplaced my in-lbs torque wrench. I will be doing the clutch on my Miata here soon. Tell me to stop being a bitch and just torque the pressure plate bolts by hand instead of spending another $100 on a torque wrench

im guessing 95% of people here dont use a torque wrench on them ?
Luckly I still have my ftlb wrench so I can do the flywheel bolts to spec

Stupid fucking pussy.

1/2" Torque Wrench

^dat

that torque wrench in the link....20-150lb range. pretty well known that torque wrenches aren't accurate at thier lower settings. The 1/2 wrench I have starts of at 20ftlb. I think I remember spec on the pressure plate bolts being 16-20ftlbs

You're not going to win this.

3/8" Drive Click Type Torque Wrench

Now go away.

or just tighten by hand like every man with hair on his balls

hmmm hand tightening them I think is a better option then a HF torque wrench ?

meh maybe ill pick up a crap ass craftsman TQ wrench

You're not getting it.

I think i get it now... The HF suggestion was just trolling

Stop being a pussy, if I assembled my engine with a no-name beam type torque wrench, then you can do it too.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402202800

I didn't even know there is a torque spec for the pressure plate. Pretty sure mine has lock washers on it and those = tighten till they are flat.

craftsman beam type torque wrench is under $20. ill just grab one of those and some loctite and stop thinking about it

I bought the set from Harbor freight. I don't have a calibration tester for the 1/4 or 3/8 but the 1/2 is still good after using it for a couple years. Definitely worth the $15 or whatever it was on sale.

Just tighten the fucking bolts. Torque wrenches are needed where things warp/deform when the bolts are tightened and you don't want the deformation to be too much or too little. This isn't one of those places. Here, you just don't want the bolts to come loose so tighten them like any other bolt that size. I'm assuming you can tell by feel when a bolt is tight.

New HF wrenches are typically more accurate than new Craftsman wrenches. HF torque wrenches have been compared to SnapOn when it comes to retaining their calibration over time. Craftsman does not fare as well. Stop whining, go to HF, pick up a 3/8" torque wrench, and torque the bolts.

Just did alot of googling. Youre right. many reviews i read where people had thier HF wrenchs tested they were right on spec

Hot rod magazine did a comparison a year ago and found the harbor frieght to be within the same tolerance as Matco snapon craftsman etc. the new wrench will be 15$ with the 20% off coupon

And circle gets the square.

Tighten it as hard as you can. If you're not as strong, use a 4 foot long extension bar and you'll be fine. Dont trust torque wrenches, they are for pussies. Hell i broke the 3/4" bit on the front of it last time i rented one from my local napa so cant trust them to get my parts tight enough.

Oh i only have a 3ft cheater bar. Think i can get them tight enough??? Guess i could go as tight as i can with the cheater then weld the bolts to the pressure plate so they won't come loose

Btw vatozone rents torque wrenches.

Hire some immigrant laborers to help you. That's the only way to get it done right.

Living in Ca and working full time im already helping pay for thier 6 children to eat. Might as well get something out of them right?

I did a calibration check on all three of my HF torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") and they were all within 5% of set value, even at the upper an lower limits it remained within 10% of the set value. My 1/2" was close to 8 years old at the time and had seen many track days, autocrosses, drops and falls and still worked great. For anything you are doing in your garage this will be fine. You will have a greater difference in clamping force on those bolts due to variances in friction on the different bolts and bolt holes.

My 3/8" torque wrench varied the most. I feel more comfortable using the 1/2" at the lower end of its range than using the upper end of the 3/8" wrench.

No, it's not. Numerous tests have shown those torque wrenches to be quite accurate. Certainly plenty good for the kindergarten shit you're doing.


Buy all three for under $50. Lose them whenever you want, since you don't seem to care enough about keeping track of a $100 tool.

link to coupon

Tried to post an image, but HF has it split into three sections. pita. Try link.

Don't be a pu$$y.

I use a torque wrench on everything. Even valve cover bolts. It satisfies my OCD.

Actually, VC bolts are a very good place to use one. I've seen them way over-torqued, which can warp the cover, causing leaks. It's only inch-pounds for those nuts.

I picked up a HF 3/8" torque wrench. Going to check it against a coworkers SnapOn before trusting it

When was the last time the SnapOn was serviced?

Truth. My VCs never leak.

There's a torque spec on the pressure plate bolts? I just tighten them till the washers are flat with some blue loctite.

I have a 1/4" drive inlb torque wrench I bought on amazon for $40 that I use for the valve covers and oil pans, and other inlb things. Its what I had to do to make them not leak. Then I've got a 3/8" drive crapsman bending beam for 3/8" drive torque stuff. And of course the 1/2" drive HF one for lugnuts and other stuff that dont need bending beam precision. Except for wheel bearings. Then I do the math to calculate the torque and stand on the correct point of the breaker bar because I'm tired of killing front wheel bearing from them being under torqued by the HF wrench.

I've never seen one of those in the store before. Damn.

They had 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" all on the shelf when I bought mine. As I remember, they were all priced at $11.99 each.

With coupon, of course.


Which they had laying next to the bin with the wrenches.

I broke mine when i tried to get the nut off the rear axle :facepalm:

You serious?? Stop being a bitch and use the tool you bought.

Wat? Torque wrench is for installing. Breaker bar is for removing, with Cheater Pipe (aka Jack Handle).

From the specs:

Product Length 33-1/2 in.

Damn, that's definitely a torque monster.

EDIT: apparently it only works in clockwise direction, but a reviewer mentioned you can disassemble and flip the head around for CCW torquing.

I know, didnt have a 3/4" breaker bar so i used the torque wrench. Hurray for 3 months return warranty. :fawk: