Top 5 tips on replacing suspension bushings
 

I just pressed out the last stock bushing for my full poly bushing swap and I feel I have gained some wisdom I would like to share.

5. The Harbor Freight C-clamp press method works... on some of them... The ones it does work on it works great, just like the video. But do not let that video delude you into thinking they are all that easy. Others, it is not so easy. Some, not easy at all.
In some cases placing a 1-1/8" socket on the threaded rod side for the rod end to push against helps. Otherwise it just presses out the center sleeve, then gets stuck, with most of the bushing still left in the arm.

4. If 5 does not go well, resort to the propane torch burn-out method. It smells terrible and can make a mess but it works. Have some cardboard or something on the floor to form a drop zone for the bushing. When it comes out it bounces around spreading melted rubber goo with a vengeance. When you heat it up, heat the outside of the steel sleeve (welded to the a-arm) evenly and then stop when you see rubber boiling out around the edges. Pound it out with a small sledge and a pipe/chisel/dowel/whatever while it is still hot. Repeat as necessary.

3. If you do not have a bench vise, a compressor/impact and the Harbor Freight press, a real press, or a torch, stay the freak away from this operation.

2. When you get completely frustrated, and you probably will, the usual rule applies. Go do something else for awhile.

And, now... the NUMBER ONE TIP for replacing suspension bushings is...
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1. PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT FOR YOU!
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Never again...:vash::vash::vash:

I've only pressed out the rears so far. I used the HF 12 ton press, various bolts, tubes, sockets, etc. Took longer to gather the parts than to press them out. For the wide rears I used a bolt that would go through the pivot of one bushing and then a 1" diameter piece of solid rod and pushed it into a piece of tubing with the right ID. All rear bushings took me 20 minutes max to push out, maybe 30 minutes of head scratching, scrounging and cutting tubing to get ready.

I think you nailed it on both counts. Using a real press gives you a nice stable fixture to work with. The HF C-clamp can be cumbersome to use even with the a-arm held in a vise. Then, having several fittings and what not probably made a big difference. The ones in the HF kit are not enough. Only one or two are of much use. In retrospect I should have played around more with sockets and cut sections of pipe.

If you did the rears that fast the fronts should go pretty quick for you too.

Just did mine. Used a torch, worked great but makes one hell of a mess. Did it in the garage. Probably better to do it outside. The rubber gets all over the place and stays soft. Almost tracked it on the new carpet, that would have been fatal.

Good to know, current HF coupon gets you the 12 ton press for 79.99.

If it eases the job as much as Stein says it is totally worth it at that price just for this job alone. I think you might also be able to use the 20% off coupon in Popular Science on top of that, unless that is the coupon you mean.

What Stein said... I used a press doing all of mine and it took longer to find/scrounge/machine bits to support the control arms than actually pressing them out did. Time consuming job but not a particularly difficult one, the diff bushings were actually tougher to get done.

No, the 79.99 coupon specifically states that it can't be used with any other coupon. Staff at my local HF always reads the coupons carefully, too.

It wasn't available in my local store (the A frame one). Surprisingly, it was less than $12 shipping. Not bad for UPS'ing 124 lbs. Actually a wash because of no sales tax.

Good tips. After all of the cursing and sweat, how's it drive?

No idea yet I still have a bit more to get done. But going from crap front tires, stock springs, and old stock bushings to NT-01s on 6ULs, Tein SS, RB front sway, and new poly bushings, it should feel awesomely better.

It's going to be one heck of a track car that's for sure.
I pressed out all the bushings on the GTIs and the S4 so I feel your pain. I made tools and used a real press though so it really wasn't all that bad.

Truer words of wisdom have yet to be spoken.

All I had was a torch, some busted ass C-clamps and hammer. I can't say I'm willing to go through that again.

You forgot the part where you have an extra set of control arms or entire subframes so you don't have to worry about the car being down so you can take your time between hurting yourself without worrying about getting anything done in a hurry.

Thanks Chad. I am looking forward to getting it on the track.

Yes I tried to find some through the local Miata buddy network but had no luck. This is a good suggestion though, especially if it is your only car.

Amen... exactly what I did. I just watched the ads and picked up a full set of front and rear arms. Blasted/epoxy painted them, replaced the bushings, etc over about a month at work.

I have a set of ES poly bushings in the garage and I am feeling very confident about doing this. My HF press doesn't get used much, but when it does its a life saver.

And the other thing that should be added to your list is:

while doing the job, install zerk fittings so you can easily lube them

if you don't do it you'll hate life when you have to dismount everything once again in 6 months for lubrication, then again and again

and if you don't lube them every some months, they start binding and you end up with worse suspension vs if using the OEM rubber bushings ...

Yeah I did that. There are grease fittings on all bushings.

The HF c-clamp is a lifesaver - I've done three different complete sets of bushings so far. The secret not noted here is with regards to the installation of new rubber bushings. It goes a thousand times easier if you lubricate them. I used an, ahem, adult lubricant that was safe with rubber and it made the job simple. Of course, how you explain to your significant other why you are going out to the shop with a tub of KY Jelly is up to you...