Monk

iTrader: (3)

Nice find aidan. I thought that might be the case, but I couldn't find the dimensions.
Those railroading are easy to find, and much cheaper than the s10 version.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

It does.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

For sav's purposes cutting the car might not work, but for me and leafy cutting it is fine.

Check out that link Sav. Use the freeze bplug to extend the shifter, then machine a bushing to accept an oil seal that presses into the freeze plug location.

Extend the shift rod and bam.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Is that picture the standard Ford location?

2inches back might work with serious cutting, which I don't want to do. This is still a street car.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Thats more cutting that I can stomach too. 1" 1lb. Back to the freeze plug solution. Man if you could get away from having to make the bushing and just use a rubber grommet that would be easier.

matthewdesigns

iTrader: (8)

My apologies for not reading far enough back to see if these are answered:

Post OD of freeze plug and shift rod, I have a shaft seal that might work if the dimensions are good. At the very least the rod extension could be tailored to work with the seal. How much longer are you thinking on the rod? A few inches? Or a foot?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Any shaft seal can work with a bushing cut to the size of the freeze plug.

Extension would be 6".

I can't get any more details on the extended coupling without a box in my hands. Which I'm working on.

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

Sub'd

Ran a lot of N20 and boosted Mustang Foxbodys back in the day 400-500 whp and only broke 3rd on the street a few times. Drag strip was another story. I bet with the 1000lbs less these T5's would be very durable in our cars. And the T5 is buttery smooth, really missed that when upgraded my Stang to a TKO.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

it's a new T5z from ford. Supposed to be the same as 90's mustangs. but if it's in the correct spot for the BP, that'd be a coincidence.

But how do you attach the extended shift rod to the original shift rod? Shift gate/detents are part of the thing that's attached to the original shift rod, so keeping that seems required.

EDIT: IMHO machining a piece that rigidly attaches to that piece AND is easy to install is the fun part. I trust Andrew will create something clever.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I was going to move the shift gates and detents bit back to where the new shifter mounts.

I pictured a chunk of aluminum milled out, with 3 sides for rigidity.

Again, I need my hands on a trans to confirm a lot.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

This guy moved the box forward, but the block with detent should be the same.

T5 shifter relocation housing | TR6 Arrow Head

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

See I plan on putting the end of that shifter under the extension, and coupling the 2 together.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Seems like there's two ways to go about it. Take that detent cup part off the rod and use a ridged shaft coupler to connect the extension, you've got to then relocate the cup and detend stuff to the back. The back part then has the upper shift bits on it, you buy that from like pro5.0 or whatever.

Or you make an adapter that presses into the shift ball spot and has a shaft coupler integrated. Then the rear housing just has to have a simple socket for the shifter ball.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

In my mind #1 is easier.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

#2 sounds monumentally easier to me. You dont have to **** around with the 10 tiny spring loaded parts in the turret.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ok I agree, I see what you mean now.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

basically what this guy did but without the U joint and with a ball and socket joint at the bottom of the shift rod.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I like it. Could be easily sealed with a shaft seal.

Did he just not seal it?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I dont think he got that far.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Looking forward to seeing it in your car