Transmission removal/Stripped clutch line bolt
 

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Does anyone know if the clutch line bracket bolt is threaded into the block? We have every other bolt loose, but that little bolt is what is holding us back, got a good grip on it and gave it so much torque it was bending the extension and then the socket slipped on it. If it's not threaded into the block, we will just disconnect the soft line and be done. If not we have to pull the engine unless someone knows a way to get it out.

I believe that one is threaded into the starter.

I just watched a video on removing the starter, does it have a nut on the end of it under the starter?

Nevermind, a different bolt. So, can I remove the starter and the trans at the same time and bypass removing the bolt? I have a new starter for my 2001 trans.

There's a plate sandwiched between the block and transmission that is also between the starter and transmission. I'm not sure if that will cause an issue, its been a while.
And I believe 2 of them have nuts behind them and one does not. Take that with a grain of salt, I haven't touched that area of the car in 6 months.

There is also a bracket that holds the starter to the block.

Alright, any info helps. What I'm thinking is that I free the starter from the block, and just take the starter with the transmission and junk it all. I can figure out the trans bracket and all of that a lot easier out of the car. (This is providing that I can)

Actually I'm like 90% sure that plate is bolted to the block behind the flywheel anyway. You'd never get it past the flywheel and clutch even if it wasn't. You'll need to get that starter bolt out.

Which plate? The only one I see is the one sandwiched between the bell housing and the bolt, which is a bracket for the clutch line.

Nvm. I read your post again.

Does anybody else have any information or suggestions?

Try the acetone/ATF mix. 50/50, shake well, and soak it on. Best penetrating lube there is.

Then smack it straight on with a hammer, and repeat. Let it soak for a day and try again. Use the fluid liberally.


If possible, find the next smaller size socket and hammer that on. Best if it's an impact socket, so you don't split it.

That bolt bolts through the starter, yes. The plate between the trans and motor is held by a single M3 bolt or something like that. It can be bent easilly of needed? It also is held to the dip stick by a similar bolt, fyi. In theory, you could pull the trans and bend the plate, then sneak a small wrench in there to undo the bolt holding the plate to the block?

I would attach a photo, but the page just refreshes when I try on my phone... There should be one fairly recently in my build thread. The bolt is uppwe left, by the dipstick, when looking at the flywheel.

The other solution would be to cut the bolt head off. I don't believe that it actually threads into the trans, just into the starter.

Y'all are lifesavers, we just got the PPF off today and everything is disconnected like wiring etc. I'll take your post into consideration, I'm so happy it could work. We tried everything else and it just stripped completely.

Now that I am at a computer... The only bolt that holds the plate is to the left of the freeze plug. Also mind the dipstick bracket.

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I'm not sure if the picture is showing. But, we have got everything off and it's all going smoothly. We just finished all 4 brakes and suspension. The rear main seal had a tiny leak, but it looks like it is mostly coming from this thing that looks like a thermostat housing and I honestly don't know what it is. I know the CAS usually leaks, but I don't think that's the CAS.

If you have oil on the back of the engine/head, chances are it's the CAS. It makes a hell of a lot more mess than you'd think. CAS o-ring is a quick and cheap fix. Replace it.

Alright, I'll go ahead and replace it while I can. After some research, I guess it is a thermostat? Where the water plug is. Is there oil inside it? That seems where the leak it.

No thermostat, it's just a coolant plate for the heater core line and the temp sensor for the dash. Only coolant there.

As others have said, it's still most likely your CAS o-ring, but I'd replace the gasket for the coolant plate while you're in there anyway. From the looks of those TWO hose clamps, someone else was probably trying to track down a leak too..

Yeah, I really hope it's the CAS, it leaks so much oil. I'm trying to replace all the seals and everything I can while I'm here. I'm replacing both front trans seals, the rear. Rear main seal, coolant plate gasket, CAS o-ring. Anything else I should replace? Also the bellhousing metal plate, is that the seal? Or is there something else that should be there.

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So we almost have it in, but we can't close the gap. We have no idea what we are doing with a transmission so is there something that we are doing wrong? If there is anymore info I can provide ask the question.