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The drive line angles are relative to each other up/down. There is roughly one degree of variation available to account different installs between user/drive lines. The weld in front plates are designed for 1.5 degrees up pinion angle and this can be measured with an angle finder on the star flange. Mazda engineers must have known diff swaps where in the future as the rear subframe accepts a small 2x4" between the center of the subframe and the nose of the diff perfectly. With the rear mount snugged in place and 2x4" wedged there is almost exactly 1.5 degrees up.
The PPF adapter was forgone for a true trans mount, bolt in tunnel, and weld in diff mount like the other conversion kits. For those that are using the PPF adapter and would like to remove it all together the trans mounts are available and in stock. |
Originally Posted by slmhofy
(Post 1210775)
Charlie,
I couldn't tell for sure from your video, but are you sure you've tightened the axle nut down all the way? If's it's not, I can see that causing extra length that might be causing the binding. I cleaned the splines out of my hubs really good with a wire brush and WD40, and then put a lot of antiseize in there during the reinstall of the half shafts and it was still super hard. I took the 1/2" impact to them and they took a lot of torque to get them to pull through the hubs all the way.
Originally Posted by cmalouf
(Post 1210797)
Shane,
Thanks for the reply. I tightened the axle nuts with my 3/4" ratchet and socket with the wheels on the ground. I may need to get the nuts tighter, but I did tighten them until they stopped. The hub is new on the driver side and the CV seemed to slip in smoothly. I put the car back together making sure to use the (slightly) shorter CV on the driver side. I took a couple more pics, one with the car in the air and one with the weight on the wheels. I apologize as I am not the best photographer. Looking at your picture, it appears that your driver side CV is a bit more pushed in than the passenger side, but it seems mine is pushed in even more so. See the bellows of the CV boot and how compressed they are on mine? I'm not positive but I think the CV is adding resistance to the drivetrain. When you spin one of your rear wheels, what happens? Spinning one wheel on mine causes the other wheel to spin too (same direction) as well as the driveshaft. I'm conflicted as to whether the resistance in the drivetrain is from the clutch based LSD or if it's being caused by the CV. Edit: Talked to Steve at V8R and he walked me through a few checks and the CV play is within spec. Will update with my experiences on Sunday once I get the car back together. Shane / Charlie, Although this is an old post i hope you two are still around to accept my thanks on this 6+ year old bump. I had run into the same issues with the axle not going all the way in and the solution for me was to jack up the control arm on the passenger side. I tried reaching out to V8R with no success and even called Kmiata to see if they had any solutions. V8R has yet to update their documentation and the only reason i knew to throw the slightly larger axle on the passenger side was because of this post so thank you both! Hope the info above on jacking the bottom of the control arm helps someone out in the future.. |
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