Want more Neg, but out of tie rod thread - solutions?
 

Hi,
Looking to increase my negative camber but have run out of thread on the tie rod. Any solutions?
Thanks

Front? ELBJs and/or offset bushings.

Rear? Paco control arms.

Both? Lower ride height. Or all the parts.

Misread.

Hi,
Thanks for reply but I don't think you understood the question. At the camber I'd like the run (and can acheive with the other parts I have) the tie rod end drops off the tie rod! Looking for solutions. I'm sure someone has had this problem before...???
Thanks

Okay, I get it now. How much camber are you trying to achieve? I've never heard of this being a problem.

4+ without driving around on the bump stops

V8R aluminum upper control arms have removable camber shims. Perhaps you can bring the tops in more and not need the lowers so widely spread out.

Could brings the tops in a bit but will run into tire clearance problems so would prefer to look for a solution to tie rod first.

Would these work?

SPL Parts Bumpsteer Adjustable Tie Rod End Kit Miata NA NB Manual Power Steering

I've ran 4 degrees without running out of tie rods. I've then turned the camber down because it was too much for an enduro car. Why exactly do you need 4+ degrees?

I didn't even know the tie rods had any significant effect on camber. I thought they adjusted toe only.

not sure that I need it until I've tested it. A couple of factors indicating more neg may be faster.

haha J

Same on both sides or have someone set the steering wheel half a turn wrong and "corrected" it by offsetting the tie rods?

Excellent point.

How high are you? I'm at -4 using ELBJ's and did not have this issue. My car is at 4 2/5 inches at the pinchwelds

I'm at about 4.25" pinch welds and -4.0 degrees front and rear with offset front lower bushings. No issues.

Same on both sides

similar. How much thread engagement do you have in the tie rod end? If you are not sure, can you measure how many mm of thread you have exposed (from where thread starts on the rod up to the locking nut) and post up?

I'd just trim the tie rod itself if you need another 1/4" or so. You'll still have plenty of thread engagement.

problem is opposite of what you are picturing. Out of thread on the rod, not enough engagement into the rod end.

surely I am not the first person to run into this???

might have to lower the car further although I don't really want to...

As far as I know you're the first person to require anything but stock inner or outer tie rods in order to get a usable amount of camber, with any combination of reasonable ride height, offset upper bushings, or extended lower ball joints.

I would think lowering the car would make your problem worse. At factory ride height, the tire rods are roughly parallel with the rack. When you lower your ride height, the rack sits lower than the tire rod ends, forcing the tire rods to point up and effectively reaching out a shorter distance. I have my car lowered a bit on coilovers, and I recently added rack spacers to eliminate bump steer. I had to dial out a fair amount of toe after adding the shims to pull the wheels back to neutral toe. 1/2" rack spacers created ~4mm toe out at each wheel on my setup.

I supposed you could try shimming your rack up, but it sounds like you're coming up really short.