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-   -   What do I buy for a generic baller race suspension setup? (https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/what-do-i-buy-generic-baller-race-suspension-setup-103132/)

Joseph Conley 06-07-2020 10:27 PM

What do I buy for a generic baller race suspension setup?
 
As the title states, I am looking to upgrade my suspension to the best possible setup within reason and looking for feedback or anything I might have missed. Plenty of threads say to just get XIDAs, but what about any other supporting mods?
I would like to see this become a blueprint for anyone else that is looking for a complete generic suspension parts list.

Planned upgrades:
XIDA Race - 800/500 with Billet Coaxial Mounts
Poly bushings with SadFab bronze retrofit.
Supermiata Upper Ball Joint.
ELBJs from Flyin Miata.
R-package tie rods from Flyin Miata.
Racing Beat Sway Bar Bracket Bracing.
Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve.
Singular hood vents + Ebay front spoiler/lip.
15x9 with Hoosiers

My car is a '91, ~200 HP, Torsen, sport brakes, and I autocross in SSM. I currently have Flyin Miata's Tokio stage 2.5 setup.
Car is 80% autocross and I am willing to sacrifice street driving.
I think the above doesnt just apply to my setup but wanted to get the additional info upfront.

Is running both ELBJs and R-package tie rods ok? I have read threads stating both ELBJs and R-package tie rods are a good idea, but not any that states this in combination.
I think it's ok based on my limited knowledge as they aim to solve to different issues. Camber vs bump steer.

Is 800/500 enough if moving to 15x9 with Hoosiers? Do I need more aero + tire + power before I need to worry about more spring?

Are the FM swaybars enough or should I just get the supermiata kit since I am this deep anyhow?

I plan on having Tarmac88 setup the car if possible.

Am I asking to be spoon-fed and should I GTFO?

andym 06-07-2020 11:28 PM

I wouldn't use the FM swaybars. They give too much rear bar and not enough front bar. I would run the supermiata big grip kit if you are at the point of buying everything else from them.

You could also try running the stock na6 rear swaybar and the RB 1.125 tubular front bar. The Na6 rear bar is a bit thicker than every other miata rear bar, but it is marginally smaller than the MSM rear bar.

I personally run the 1.125 front bar and na6 rear bar on my miata and it is a nice combo that is well balanced with my 550/350 spring rates.

shuiend 06-08-2020 07:29 AM

Buy the big grip kit, throw in a few t-shirts so you get into the orange club and get 5% off.

Quigs 06-08-2020 07:52 AM

Another vote for the Big Grip kit, no reason not to if you're getting Xidas anyway. They also sell the tie rod ends and ELBJs, so just grab it all at once and enjoy Club Orange status.

andym 06-08-2020 09:18 AM

Ahh yah, I forgot about club orange status. Go the route that gets you orange status.

boileralum 06-08-2020 09:26 AM

I'd also step up to the SadFab delrin bushing kit vs the poly/bronze.

doward 06-08-2020 09:49 AM

+1 for getting the BGK and the other parts from SPM for the Club Orange discount.

That's a good setup for 205 Hoosiers. I would consider more spring for 225/45 hoosiers.

Hit me up when its together and we'll get you on the schedule.


Joseph Conley 06-08-2020 07:08 PM

Thank you for the input everyone. I'm now a Club Orange member! I got a call from Ed congratulating me and going over my order! Great customer service!

themonkeyman 06-08-2020 11:17 PM

If you’re only auto crossing the car I’d say go back to NA6 brakes, or regular 1.8 brakes. Less unsprung weight and more pad selection than the sport calipers. Will be plenty of brake for autoX speeds and fade wont be an issue with autoX run lengths. (I say this as an na6/sport brake owner)

Also if they’re original, plan on replacing all 8 eccentrics. They were updated sometime in the 90s to a finer thread that clamps much better, you’ll need all the clamp you can with ~275 hoosiers. Basically gonna become a consumable for you at those grip levels.

TalkingPie 06-09-2020 01:50 PM

Even though the order was already placed, I'll echo others' sentiments for posterity: FM sways give you too much rear bar. Even with FM's rear-biased camber alignment and their spring/shock/bumpstop package, front sway adjusted stiff and rear full soft, I had to watch out for oversteer. I remember one instance coming out of the carousel at a local track where I was full throttle in third gear on stock power with the rear squirming around under me. Trail braking was... not advisable. I've since put the stock rear sway back on, even though I'm only putting around on the street.

Joseph Conley 06-09-2020 02:11 PM


Originally Posted by themonkeyman (Post 1573348)
If you’re only auto crossing the car I’d say go back to NA6 brakes, or regular 1.8 brakes. Less unsprung weight and more pad selection than the sport calipers. Will be plenty of brake for autoX speeds and fade wont be an issue with autoX run lengths. (I say this as an na6/sport brake owner)

Also if they’re original, plan on replacing all 8 eccentrics. They were updated sometime in the 90s to a finer thread that clamps much better, you’ll need all the clamp you can with ~275 hoosiers. Basically gonna become a consumable for you at those grip levels.

Starting with autocross but can see doing track days, etc.. so I plan on staying on the Sport brakes until I go to Dynalite/Dynapro. I understand these are overkill/weight penality for strickly autocross. Great info on eccentrics, I did not know this was the case. This sounds like a no brainer for ~$80.


Originally Posted by TalkingPie (Post 1573395)
Even though the order was already placed, I'll echo others' sentiments for posterity: FM sways give you too much rear bar. Even with FM's rear-biased camber alignment and their spring/shock/bumpstop package, front sway adjusted stiff and rear full soft, I had to watch out for oversteer. I remember one instance coming out of the carousel at a local track where I was full throttle in third gear on stock power with the rear squirming around under me. Trail braking was... not advisable. I've since put the stock rear sway back on, even though I'm only putting around on the street.

I ended up getting the SuperMiata swaybar kit to be safe. This is great user data for anyone else that may read this. I appreciate the feedback.


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