wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

Ok, don't want to get into the whole debate of whether you for or again abs and all that.

I done some minor research and everyone on m.net and cr claim you need to have the MC, brake line and proportion valve from an non-abs car to due the swap.

But I did a search on the web and for some other cars they make a new block that replaces the abs control block.

My question is why don't people just remove the abs control block out of the engine bay and just connect the hard lines. Cause there are three inlet lines. (FR, FL, R) and three outlet (FR, FL, R).

It just seems like it is almost to easy. Like there has to be a reason people go through all the trouble of finding non-abs cars and swapping over all the parts, versus just by-passing the block.

Thanks

mrtonyg

iTrader: (1)

I think the reason most people do it that way is to avoid any potential issues with the braking system. It will also look cleaner because you don't have a block with all the lines meandering out of it.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

you NEED a proportioning valve, so simply connecting the lines is out of the question.

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

The proportioning valve should already be part of the MC even of abs unit just like on a non abs, or is the proportioning valve for abs cars inside the whole block?

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

the prop valve isnt in our MC. it is next to it as a separate unit. idk if the abs cars have it and has the same stock ratios or not.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

Other than 90-93, there seems to be a different rear braking bias for ABS equipped cars

Flyin' Miata : Tech: Stock proportioning valve information

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

nice. good to know.

Well I do have this part under my hood and a quick search showed that is the stock prop valve




it seems like more and more is showing that I can just remove block and make new lines to fill that gap. so far the only disadvantage to just make three new little lines, is that the lines will still have a little cludder and a few extra feet of brake lines.

Vovchandr

iTrader: (1)

If it ain't broke, don't mess with it IMO.

Keith@FM

iTrader: (1)

I don't see why you couldn't just bypass the block. However, the newer cars run more rear brake and count on the ABS to keep the rear wheels in line - in the 2001+ Sport cars, there's no proportioning at all, just full pressure to the rears. So I'd do some testing on a deserted road to make sure you're not too squirrely, and possibly install an adjustable.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

from an ABS car:



they have a factory proportioning valve....

Keith@FM

iTrader: (1)

They do, and you can see how they differ on FM's site.

But the 2001+ Sport ABS cars have an empty prop valve. They look like one, but they're simple pass-throughs.

wildfire0310

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Keith. I was hoping to hear from someone who has done it or some with much more experience to confirm if it should work or not.

Thanks for the heads up about the valves and is a great for warning for anyone else. I luck out with having a 91 so the ABS and non ABS are the same %.

fmowry

iTrader: (8)

Bumping this thread back up.

So I have ABS in my '01, but when I started my v8 swap long ago, the new axles did not have the ABS sensor "ring" pressed in. Long story short, I'm not replacing the axles now and I'd really like to simplify the clutter where the ABS unit is under the hood. Some of the lines had to be bent up to cut the firewall/ledge, and they still run close to the header so heat might be another issue.

Since Keith stated that the prop valve on 01+ ABS cars is just a pass through, can I just buy one from FM to replace what I have, remove the ABS box, and run the lines directly to the brakes, deleting ABS? Will I need anything else besides the FM prop valve and new lines?

Thanks,
Frank