Wilwood 4 piston rear brakes?
 

Does anyone make a kit or even just a bracket to run a dynalite/dynapro caliper with a standard 11" or so vented front rotor out back? I thought I saw something like this a while back but can't seem to find any info on it.

I'm wanting to upgrade my fronts to the Dynapro 6 caliper and maybe reuse the dynalites for the rear with a nice vented rotor.

I already run a hydraulic hand/park brake and would really love to just ditch the crappy factory rear calipers with their manuall adjustments that love to seize up in time for every pad swap. Currently running the 11" sport setup out back with near impossible to find in a days notice sport calipers.

Thanks

6 piston calipers over kill imho, 4 pistons should be just fine - as of now, the only rear option using Wilwoods is going to a V8R kit - found on 949.

I'd love a single-piston rear Wilwood kit.

949 sold the kit your looking for but it may have been abandoned.

We've got something in the works. I'll post some details later this week. If you've already got a hydro handbrake (or you're willing to ditch the handbrake), our kit will be the one you want.

I didn't want to spill the beans :) but you know I'm a sucka for the upgrade.

I would like to have Wilwood calipers on the rears just to make changing the pads as easy as it is on the front (which has Wilwoood calipers). And, all four corners would use the same pads, which incidentally are also cheaper than the stock ones.

Not if you do it right. If you're willing to sacrifice 1lb+ of caliper weight and a massive loss in pedal feel to run Dynalites in the back, be my guest. We opted for a lighter caliper with the correct piston area so you keep your pedal feel, improve bias, and drop a TON of weight all at the same time. The pads are still cheap, but they aren't the same as Dynalite pads.

This looks very promising. Hopefully I've found myself a Christmas present :drool:

We're working with Andrew on this kit as we have similar goals.

- Proper brake balance with similar or same compounds with prop valve nearly full open

- Solid pedal and modulation

- Reduce weight

- Fast pad swaps

We will offer the resultant TSE race rear kit on our site as well.

I'm assuming no parking brake, right?

i'm building the 2 piston rear right now. i'm using the dba rotors that come with good win bbk/

Bonus points for 5.25" lug mount and 11.75" rotor so I don't need a new bracket. I've looked around for something like that, but there aren't many options. There's the 4 piston dynapro lug mount w/ 1.58 piston area which is kind of close to the rear sport caliper area.

I am building a kit for my car, if anyone else is interested let me know. I will be using a 2 piston Wilwood caliper and DIY mounts. Pictures of the calipers I will be using:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349826175
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349826175

We decided against a 2-pot caliper because we had concerns about poor pad life. The Powerlite 4-pots we went with are only half a pound heavier anyway, and they have significantly more pad area (1.1sq.in vs 1.8 sq.in IIRC).

Look forward to finally seeing a good rear kit. Guess my sport calipers just got old.

Well then maybe I could still run Dynalite pads in the back too. I just buy a regular set of dynalite size pads and cut them in half. Now a set of rear pads is really cheap, assuming I do not burn up too many chop saw blades.

For most users, and certainly for those of us doing endurance racing, pad volume is important. You can get the torque bias correct with a small 2 pot caliper but sacrifice pad life because the pad volume end up a lot lower than OEM. The caliper we chose has a pad volume very close to the OEM NA8 and Sport pad but weighs probably 30% as much as the OEM caliper. Another 3lbs or so off each rotor with the two piece and the weight savings are significant. The trick was retaining pad volume while getting piston area right.

Our estimates put the weight loss at over 10 lbs. That is unsprung weight.

That the time needed to swap pads will go from about 3 -1/2 minutes to about to about 45 seconds is well, one lap at T25 :)

We have learned that getting rotor size (torque arm), piston area, pad volume and M/C sizing correct is critical. Get it wrong and no amount of prop valves, funky pad combinations and skill will make up for a crappy pedal and poor modulation. Get it right and you have a rock solid pedal, no fade ever, 20-30 hr pad life and sub one minute pad swaps. Oh and shave 25lbs.

Assuming this new rear kit uses 11" rotors will the fronts require 11.75" rotors or will 11" fronts work? Or does rotor diameter not really matter with an adjustable prop value?

With the new NASA TTA to TT3 classing crap, I'll be looking at getting the 11.75 BBK for the front. Are there any plans for a better package deal with getting this new rear kit with the 11.75 front BBK together? Just wondering if I should wait on getting the fronts. It'll be a couple months anyway, for the new season.

Just want to be sure the noobs know I was joking about the chop saw...