Wilwood Dynapro Pad Knockback issue.
 

Hi Guys, I am having a strange issue with my brakes. When driving aggressively, I get pad knock back, however, I already replaced my front hubs and the issue is still there. I really don't think it is the rear because of the amount of travel needed to engage the brakes again. Any ideas?

Try driving aggressively then stop without using the front brakes (e brake or coasting) and measure the gap between pads and rotors.

Why don't you think it's the rears? Rear hubs crack. Have you inspected them?

I will try this today. Another thing to note is that the pads contact the rotors when I am off the brakes, especially the rears. I can hear them squeak until I pull the handbrake up and it goes away. Same with the front but it is not as bad.

I have inspected them, they look and feel fine.

Took the front wheels off. Everything looks fine. Rears have movement side to side but none in and out. Dunno. :dunno:

What do you mean side to side? And yeah rotors will contact pads. There are no springs to push them back.

The pads will move towards the front and rear of the car, but not from driver to passenger side. Same with front, but not as easily.

Bueller?....anyone?

Is this on track or on the street that you experience knockback?

It's known that the Miata knuckle flexes over about 1.2g (ish) in cornering... this is enough to cause knockback on track, especially if you have larger than stock rotors.

I assume you have a two-peice rotor with the Wilwood kit - does it appear to "wobble" when you spin it by hand without the wheel attached? Have you checked bolt torque on your caliper brackets?

[QUOTE=Jumbosrule;1430231]Is this on track or on the street that you experience knockback?[\QUOTE]

Both. But only if I drive agressiveley in the street. Sudden right to left movement (sloloms) will do it every time.

[QUOTE]It's known that the Miata knuckle flexes over about 1.2g (ish) in cornering... this is enough to cause knockback on track, especially if you have larger than stock rotors.[\QUOTE]

Hmm. Did not know this. I am pulling over 1.2 for sure on track but not on the street.

It does not wobble. Have not checked bolt torque. But I would find it hard to believe that would be the issue

.

Radial

FTFY

oh. I thought I read somewhere it was a radial mount. Guess I was wrong. Thanks Adian.

The Dynapro is available in both radial and lug mount forms. The TSE kit is lug mount because that's more convenient (it bolts up to the same bracket as the Dynalite) and because most of the stiffness improvements from radial mount calipers really only apply if you've got an upright with radial mounting holes on it.

--Ian

They both have the name "Dynapro" but have noticeable differences in dimensions.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21257a9ed7.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6b5f18af4c.jpg
Both requires adapters but the radial mount caliper itself "feels" beefier (longer and wider).

.

The lug mount and the radial Dynapro calipers are radically different and don't even use the same pads. There is almost no difference whatsoever in performance between a Lug mount Dynapro and a Cheap lug mount Dynalite. The radial Dynapro however is a drastic upgrade. 50% more pad life because they are thicker, the caliper design is much stiffer with bigger bolts holding the halves together on a larger spread bolt pattern, and it allows for better clearance in the radial direction for stuffing big rotors in small wheels by almost 5mm.

Then why do they make the lug mount dynapro? That makes no sense.